Arcade Collecting > Miscellaneous Arcade Talk

Missle Command Circut Board

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RSmith5678:
I am trying to get a missile command to work. I think it is the smaller of the 2 circut boards that is bad but I am not sure. did a few tests on it. Replaced R30 10 ohm. (was fried). No power to any of the buttons. blank screen.
ANY IDEAS????
Thanks
RPS :(

RayB:
I just revived a Missile Command cocktail. I'm no expert, but I might recognize some of the symptoms you encounter.

First, can you provide more details on the voltage readings?
The AR-II board should have several test points with several different voltages. Some are DC and some are AC.

Second, your main game board should ALSO have some test points (though some revisions of the board did not). What readings do you get on those? Does the red LED light light up or not.

Let me know what you find and we can go from there.

Since I'm no expert, what I did was a "rebuild kit" on the AR-II board, and also I replaced the "big blue" capacitor on the power-supply. It's an expensive way to solve a problem instead of actually FINDING the specific failed parts, but like I said, I'm no expert, so this way worked.

RSmith5678:
Hey Thanks for replying.
The red light on the PCB does NOT go on. Test points on the Audio board are good on one side 22V+ and 22V- and the 36VAC. on teh other side of the Heat sink I don't get any readings at all. If I unplug the 9 pin and test it I have voltage. When I plug it back in all test points are dead.
Which of teh 4700MF capacatiors did you replace. Mine all look good but that is not a good test. Like i said before I replaced Risistor #30. A 10 ohm clost to the 9 pin socket.
Randy

Wade:
I just picked up one of these and it is also dead.  I don't have a manual.  Are there any available online somewhere?

I would like to troubleshoot this, and at least get my power supply working, before sending the boards off for repair.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Wade

RayB:
OK there can be a couple things going on here. As far as I know, the board won't output the game voltages unless the game board is properly connected. (I don't know why... it sort of "completes the circuit" when the board is connected). Because of this, I found that I could never read the AR-II output without a game board attached.

So I'd suggest you closely inspect your board connector. Make sure the contacts inside are clean and undamaged. Next also clean the board edge traces (that the connector attaches to). Does the first trace have burn marks? Make sure a connection is being made. I clean the traces using a pink eraser.

As far as what capacitors I replaced on the AR-II, I bought a rebuild kit from Bob Roberts. All the major capacitors were replaced (as well as a few transistors). Like I said before, this is not a cheap way to fix one failed part, but the kit involves replacing ALL the parts that commonly fail, and that did fix the board.

~Ray B.

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