Arcade Collecting > Miscellaneous Arcade Talk
How to start finding board and monitor problems?
D_Zoot:
Double check the slam switch on the coin door by looking at it.
unclet:
D_Zoot:
Thanks for the input....
You mention to look for the slam switch on the coin door, although I have no coin door mechs or anything, so I am not sure what you are referring to.
D_Zoot:
The slam switch (Midway called it a "tilt" switch) would have been located on the inside of the coin door, near the door lock. It would be nothing more than two strips of metal with two wires going to it. These strips are mounted together with one of them having a small weight on it. When the door was "slammed" inertia caused the weight to move and flex the metal strip it was attatched to, thus making/breaking contact with the other metal strip.
The wire colors I reference are right out of the manual. Sadly, there is no "Standard" wiring or colors with these old games. You might want to print out the schematic page that shows this wiring so you can follow along with the measurements you are taking and see how it works..
Good luck!
D
unclet:
I looked at the game board logic PCB and the main PCB and the connection at the junction point looks ok. I did not notice any strain pulling the solder points away.
I also looked around the coin door area for two metal strips and found nothing. After asking the previous owner, I found out that the monitor went on and displayed a garbled image without having the coin door installed at all, so I do not think we need to worry about any metal strips which might be causing power to be interrupted .... I think.... :)
I then performed the Ac and Dc tests on the power supply board (ie: white colored board). I tried to locate the schematic in the PDF file which related to the white power supply board and I think I found it on the page marked "Page 26", however, I could not figure out for the life of me how you determine the wire colors based on that schematic. I saw in this schematic the values of 16.5V, 9V, 9V and 16.5, 12V, 5V and -5V and saw that each one had a number next to it (as if the line drawn on the schematic was assigned a number). Does this number get mapped to a wire color somewhere else? Any hints here on how to find wire colors so I can follow/learn a schematic would be nice.
Anyway, here are the results:
V-Ac tests:
1) One lead on the White/Green wire and the other on the Yellow/Blue wire resulted in "6.9V-Ac" but should have been 12V-Ac
Note: The Yellow/Blue wire was all Blue with yellow marks on it. I would assume this wire would be called a Blue/Yellow wire, however, since no yellow wire with blue marks existed, I used the Blue/Yellow wire for this test
... for tests 2) thru 5), I was suppose to place one lead on the yellow wire, although when I looked and the molex connector plug on the power supply board, there were two yellow wires going to separate holes. I simply placed one lead on the yellow wire which was closest to the wire color I was testing.
2) One lead on the Yellow wire and the other on the Black wire resulted in "19.38V-Ac" but should have been 16.5V-Ac
3) One lead on the Yellow wire and the other on the Orange/Black wire resulted in "10.5V-Ac" but should have been 9V-Ac
Note: I was suppose to place the lead on Orange/Blue, but no wire with this color existed so I assumed Orange/Black was the next closest thing.
4) One lead on the Yellow wire and the other on the Red/White wire resulted in "10.5V-Ac" but should have been 9V-Ac
5) One lead on the Yellow wire and the other on the Grey wire resulted in "19.4V-Ac" but should have been 16.5V-Ac
V-Dc tests:
1) One lead on the Orange/Red wire and the other on the White wire resulted in varying V-Dc values steadily increasing to 265V-Dc, until I decided to pull the probes out. The moment I placed the second probe, then the V-Dc values rose steadily .... 24, 55, 100, 150, 222, 250, 265 ....... do not know what this reading was all about..... I tried this multiple times with always the same result. This value should have resulted in 5V-Dc only
2) One lead on the Orange/Red wire and the other on the White/Brown wire resulted in 13V-Dc but should have been 12V-Dc
3) There is no Blue/White wire for me to perform the Orange/Red wire to Blue/White wire.
Note1: There are two Blue wires going to the molex connector on the power supply board. One is a Blue wire with yellow marks (which I used in the first (1) V-Ac test above) and the other Blue wire had brown marks (or maybe they were dark purple or something ..... hard to tell). Anyway definitely no Blue/White or White/Blue wire, so I could not perform this test.
**IMPORTANT: I will be leaving for vacation for one week, so this should conclude my testing until I return. Please feel free to leave me some ideas on how to proceed though and I will read everything and reply when I return. Thanks for all the help so far.....
RayB:
(don't go pulling off or plugging in molex connectors while the power is on!)
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version