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controller for quadriplegic

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RetroJames:

--- Quote from: walls83 on December 23, 2004, 09:40:51 am ---1hookedspacecadet your dog looks just like mine.
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RetroJames:

--- Quote from: Hiub1 on December 22, 2004, 09:36:45 pm ---Yeah, it would be fairly simple to make something like that. Either just 2 metal plates on top of each other, 4 screws with springs on them, and wire one plate to ground and the other plate to the button press and that does it. One thing you forgot to reply on, what about Sean's wrist cushions? Are we forgetting about those? This seems to be a really good idea, so I would think that it would be favorable to ditch the beanbags for this. What would Sean think?

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So on the pressure switch, I am enclosing a quick diagram of one possible config.  Note it may be possible to eliminate the small springs and use the natural tension in a material (like the plastic cone material) to act as the spring if properly cantalevered.  I tried to depict a microswitch with a little lever on it like the ones used for a coin insert.

On the wrist rests, I noted this in SeaMonkey's preliminary report from Sean;

"The back (farthest from Sean) side of the controller should be 5" high including beanbag, and the other end should be 4" high, to accomodate him in bed."

That seems to indicate the cp will have an increasing slope from front to back.  My initial thoughts at this point are to put together the mockup without any wrist rests, let Sean put his hands on it, and see if there is one or more applicable spots for those.

Also, remember the beanbag is so Sean can rest the cp on his lap in his chair or in bed.

Arcadiac:

--- Quote from: skallagrigg on December 20, 2004, 03:11:12 pm ---I'd recommend adding 3.5mm mono sockets for any of the controls you are a bit unsure of. Then Sean can add sip/puff, head switches or anything else that may help at a later date - and to suit each game. Great work by the way.

Barrie
www.OneSwitch.org.uk



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Just a thought, This person has some experience to offer for control flexibility and also has built adapted controllers, apparently works for a company that does just that,  keep them in mind when suggestions are made.  It could make the process so much simpler!  ARCADIAC!

RetroJames:
Thanks for the reminder.  I just browsed Barrie's site again and found his DIY instructions for a S&P switch as well as some further discussions about the 3.5 mono plug jacks and pressure switches.  Check out this link provided by him to a supplier of low pressure vacume switches.

http://tinyurl.com/57tl3

RetroJames:
Ok folks,

I have been conferring with Hiub 1 and we have decided now is the time to start figuring out the analog joystick wiring and the mounting of the Pelican sticks while we wait on the revised designs from SeaMonkey.


To that end we are ready for the following components if anyone has them to donate:

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2 x PELICAN PELPL950 Universal Arcade Sticks

(example: http://www.fadfusion.com/selection.php?product_item_number=20260800103)


1 or more aftermarket PS2 controllers - prefer ones which have an "auto-fire" or "turbo" option

- (possible examples: http://wrongcrowd.com/arcade/controllers.shtml)

NOTE: One issue with the stock ps2 controller is that it has small tracts of copper on the inner PCB.  Not much to solder to.  The link below discusses this issue and illustrates why we should look at aftermarket parts. 

http://wrongcrowd.com/~arcade/sony.shtml



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It looks like we can get the Pelicans for about $15-$20 pc and the other controller for around $10 if no one has any available.

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