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controller for quadriplegic
Kremmit:
--- Quote from: 1hookedspacecadet on December 18, 2004, 09:02:36 am ---Where would we need to bend the plexi though?
--- End quote ---
I was picturing soomething like the attached picture. It appears to be made of 3 pieces of plexi; two sides, and one bent piece. I think it's much stronger to build a plexi box this way than to glue 6 separate sides together. Plus it cuts down on sharp edges. Plus you can make it light up inside. ;D
I also dug up some links with plexi-working tips:
http://slot-tech-ftp.serveftp.com:8080/videogame%20conversions/plexiglass/plexi.htm
Randy Fromm's tips for working with plexi.
http://www.mini-itx.com/projects/spacepanel/page5.asp
The only pic I could find of bent plexi
http://www.thekrib.com/TankHardware/plex.html
Tons of plexi info from the world of aquariums.
from http://fins.actwin.com/aquatic-plants/month.9712/msg00163.html:
A few years ago I helped build two 400 gallon show tanks for a local fish store. We purchased the Plexiglas from a local plastics supply company along with the solvent. The secret to bending the material is to use an industrial style heat gun. Using an oven can warp the sheet of plexi and ruin it in short order.
Our first step was to buy the material pre-cut because of the smooth edge provided. If you want, you can buy a saber saw blade from the plastics company designed specifically to cut the plastic. Practice cuts are essential so as not to chip or crack the plexi for the final product. I think there may be a special router tool that can be used to easily clean up ragged saw cut, just remember to oversize the saw cuts so you don't run short on material. Peel off the protective paper from both sides of the area you wish to bend and clamp to a table, overhanging the section to be bent. Apply heat gun hot air to within an inch or two of the surface along proposed bend line. When the plexi begins to get hot, check for flexibility. Use a pipe or tube of the appropriate radius as a guide to bend the plexi around to form a corner. (To be very precise, you can make a hinged fixture around the pipe to hold and bend the plexi as we did.) It is important not to soften the plexi too much, this maximizes your ability to control the bending process. (It would be a good idea to buy some scrap plexi and practice before doing the real thing.) Use a carpenters square to verify a 90 degree bend at the top and bottom of the of the corner.
Always remember, MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE!
from http://howtos.linux.com/howtos/MP3-Box-HOWTO-7.shtml:
7.4 How do I bend plexiglass?
Get a torch and heat the opposite side of the plexiglass that you are going to bend. You should move the torch back and forth, not to fast, and not too slow. One minute - two minutes should be fine, if you warm up it too much, bubbles will appear. After you have heated the material, put in on table and slowly bend it. Keep it under the desired angle up to a minute.
gprime:
I don't post much around here, but I just want to say that the joystick for the square triangle circle and x buttons is a really great idea. For limited hand movement it should make switching between each button much easier.
I've been following this thread for a while, you guys seem to making good progress!
RetroJames:
Awesome stuff guys! SeaMonkey, you rock. Looking at the new cp design, MAME looks more doable than ever as we will now have 2 analog sticks and 2 digital sticks. I am a bit concerned about the shoulder buttons though, and was on the other design. I just don't see how Sean will be able to use them with any degree of effectiveness. Maybe a coupleof sip n' puff switches are in order?
I am awaiting the revised drawings and will post a new 3dmodel at that time. Also, I plan to make a full mockup and get it shipped back to SeaMonkey by the first of the year to finalize the design.
skallagrigg:
I'd recommend adding 3.5mm mono sockets for any of the controls you are a bit unsure of. Then Sean can add sip/puff, head switches or anything else that may help at a later date - and to suit each game. Great work by the way.
Barrie
www.OneSwitch.org.uk
SeaMonkey:
The sholder buttons are no problem. Shawn's hands are clinched at the second knuckle and as long as they have 3/8 " inch clearence of each other, he can hit them fine, by "punching" forward. We tested with a blue Happs button, and it worked fine. We may want to go with jumbo buttons however:
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