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Setting Up Shop
Xiaou2:
sometimes the additional lenght addons can be off a bit in accuracy - because of the material, and how you have to install them.
a one piece, or thick iron wing wont bend or warp out of allignment like sheetmetal will.
ive got a cheapie with sheetmetal wings - which is ok for me... but if i could afford the best... i would shurly choose a better version.
bwest:
I have owned both the sheetmetal wings and the cast iron. The cast iron will remain flat over time and will not dent or ding. In addition, the added weight seems to aid in stability.
I strongly suggest getting the cast iron wings. However, some models can be upgraded at a later date. Additionally, you could custom build some new wings later.
Horsepower ratings in table saws can be misleading. Some list peak vs. non-peak. My Jet contractor saw is a 1 1/2 HP model and seams to have plenty of power. Grizzly has an excellent reputation as well. I own a Grizzly Drill Press that I love.
Tilzs:
Be warned though, a cast iron top is going to need some TLC every now and then to keep the rust away.
Tailgunner:
1. Do I need a drill press to drill out the holes for the buttons and joysticks on my control panel or will a plunge router or regular drill do the trick? - I'd like my cuts to be accurate (who wouldn't?) and perpendicular to the plywood. Is there a guide or attachment I could add to my drill to make sure the cut is perpendicular?
A hand drill and butterfly bit will suffice. Drill slowly and steadily, and stop when the point penetrates the other side. Flip the board and finish drilling from that side. You'll get nice clean holes this way.
2. I am thinking about getting a table saw but I don't want to spend an arm and a leg. Does anyone have any affordable recommendations? (I guess around $300 or less)
I prefer radial arm saws to table saws, especially when dealing with sheet materials. In either case, look around for used equipment. Wood working equipment tends to last for generations, and you can find high quality used equipment for conciderably less than it costs new.
3. Same question as #2 but I'm looking for a jigsaw or some other way to do rounded cuts.
Jigsaw, sander and router. You'll have to cut at least one with a jigsaw, but you can turn around and use it for a pattern and cut copies with your router.
4. OK, last one for now and it's more like a how-to question - Would routing slots on the inside of the cabinet to accept the things like the back pieces and the cabinet shelf (notched at the ends) hold with some wood glue and clamps or do I have to use screws? I was thinking about a 1/4" deep slot in 3/4" thick birch plywood.
It's better to cut support strips and glue them in place. 1" wide strips of 3/4" plywood work well. I pin nail everything together, screws are for hanging drywall. ;)
Chris:
My Craftsman 12V cordless drill ($49 on sale) has a bullseye level on the back, so I was able to drill reasonably straight holes without a drill press... good enough for a CP, at least. There's just enough play in a 1-1/8" hole that a button should sit okay in any hole you drill carefully.
Get a dremel. A cordless dremel is a hundred times more useful than a corded one.
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