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Need help with ripping MDF
DrewKaree:
--- Quote from: roybfr on August 01, 2004, 11:58:20 pm ---Delta ShopMaster TS300, IIRC was about $350, so it was not the cheapy cheapy, but still not the "pro" model.
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The other thing I'd check is if the bolts on the trunnions (the things the saw motor bolts to for adjustments) and tighten 'em up if they're loose.
--- Quote ---I just looked up the Biesemeyer, man I have been looking for something like that for ever, thing will cost as much as the saw, but I could really use it on some other stuff that I do.
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They DO make copies, but they all are pretty expensive, but once you have one on your machine, you'll wonder how you ever got along without it. Check Rockler to see how much their version is, it should be a bit cheaper.
--- Quote ---I was using some extra wood as guides for some short cuts but I don't have any pieces long enough to do the cab back.
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only problem I always seem to have is that the wood isn't straight in one or more directions.
akira:
another good tip is make sure you cut OUTSIDE your markings to allow for any discrpances and use a hand plane or sander to correct. Remember to allow for the thickness of your saw blade too
Xiaou2:
Funny this thread pops up now... as Im in the process of building an extention table for my cheapie table saw.
The thing has a measurment guide for less than 2ft : ( The extention will add 6 ft to that... so almost 8ft of measurable and guide lockable accuracy : ) I just hope my saw dosnt go bad soon, as this is super custom to fitting the special lockdown bar.
Ill post pics when its completed.
Although maybe not a good idea... (Im very carefull tho - and havnt had any probs...) Ive removed my rip fence. I hated not being able to see under it... as well as having issues with how it moved arrround sometimes.
A lot of problems with cuts are due to not being able to feed the work in perfectly straight - as you have to make sure its at the guide edge perfectly at all times... as well as making sure the work is flat to the table... and also making sure to feed it steadily so that it dosnt fly out at you or worse - gobble your body parts up. So much to concentrate on... that you lose focus on the pressure you should be putting on the edge as you feed it.
However... it is possible that your motor shaft or blade is bent : ( Remove the gaurd, lower the blade to under table level, and power up - watching if the blade wobbles or not. You may be able to see better by hand spinning the blade.
The blade may be seated improperly as well. Undo it, then pop it back on again making sure its tightened and resting properly.
akira:
;D
you could also use a normal power saw and using g-clamps attach a rail or guide to the material you are cutting to ensure a nice straightline :)
ras2a:
--- Quote from: Apollo on August 02, 2004, 12:50:23 am ---Much easier way is to tack a straight pioece of timber to your MDF and use it as a guide for your circular saw.
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couldn't agree more! We have a table saw at work but Im certain it's 'out' slightly. As has been said..simply use a circular saw (can pick these up dirt cheap) and clamp a length of wood the correct distance from your cutting line for your saw to guide against...it takes seconds to make cuts this way!
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