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Starting the cabinet all at once. It works! And here's how...

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krick:
First off, my apologies to Peale as I seem to have taken over his thread.  However, I hope that my additions to this thread will benefit us all, regardless of our exact cab configuration.


Well, I messed with my MAME cab earlier tonight.  I'm running Windows 2000 and it DOES shut down properly when I hit the power button.  I'll be damned if I don't learn something every day.


So here's a summary of the 4 options I have for starting and stopping my MAME cab...


1) factory cabinet toggle switch supplies power to monitor, marquee, and computer.
Additional push-button switch mounted in cabinet starts/stops computer.

2) PC is wired into primary cabinet power feed.  NC relay wired to PC on/off switch and triggered by primary cabinet power.  Switching on cabinet via factory toggle triggers relay to open but this happens slightly after power is supplied to the PC so this turns the PC on.  PC must be shut down via software method, probably  via button shift combination.  Once PC is shut down, cab can be turned off via factory toggle switch.

3) factory cabinet toggle is replaced with push-button wired to PC on/off.  cab power supplied through a Bits Limited SmartStrip.  Computer is plugged into always-on "trigger" outlet.  Cabinet (monitor & marquee) is plugged into switched outlet.  Starting computer with push-button triggers SmartStrip to supply power to other outlets.  Shutting down computer with push button triggers SmartStrip to cut power to other outlets.

4) same as #3 above but using a home made relay setup instead of a Bits Limited SmartStrip.

SirPeale:
How would this do?

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=500&item=RLY-427&type=store

Or even this?

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=500&item=RLY-2120&type=store

krick:
Here's an informative link I found about relays...
http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/relay.htm


Here's the specs on the two relays in the previous post...


120 VAC DPDT 10 AMP RELAY
Kest # KRLY-2120.
120 Vac, 5000 ohm coil.
D.P.D.T.
10 Amp contacts.
KH "Ice cube" style,clear polycarbonate case.
1.1" x 0.83" x 1.37" high.
Solder or 0.187" qc or solder terminals.
CAT# RLY-2120
Your Price: $2.75 each
 

120 VAC DPDT 35 AMP RELAY
Deltrol Controls # 275P202C120A.
120 Vac, 1500 Ohm coil.
D.P.D.T.
power relay with contacts rated 35 Amps @ 277 Vac.
Clear polycarbonate cover.
1.5" x 1.35" x 2" high.
Can be used with quick-connect terminals (0.25" for contacts, 0.187" for coil), pc mounted.
CAT# RLY-427
Your Price: $4.00 each


The thing that I find confusing about the descriptions of relays is that there should be two sets of ratings.  One for the circuit triggering the switch, another for the circuit being switched.  They make relays that can use a small DC voltage to trigger the switching of a 120V AC circuit.    When they say "120 VAC 35 AMP", how do you know if the ratings are for the triggering circuit or for the triggered circuit?

In my experience with household current, a "20 AMP" circuit in a house was capable of supporting devices consuming up to 20 AMPs at one time without tripping the breaker.  They used heavier 12 gauge wire instead of the 14 gauge wire used in "normal" 15 AMP circuits.   Since a relay isn't really a part that is supporting a load, what does the 35 AMP rating refer to?

As far as I can tell, the main difference between the two relays above is one is 10 AMP with a 5000 ohm coil and the other is 35 AMP with a 1500 Ohm coil.  Why should I choose one over the other?

danny_galaga:

--- Quote from: krick on May 31, 2004, 09:57:37 pm ---

As far as I can tell, the main difference between the two relays above is one is 10 AMP with a 5000 ohm coil and the other is 35 AMP with a 1500 Ohm coil.  Why should I choose one over the other?


--- End quote ---

the amperage quoted on a relay is normally the the load the contacts can handle.
normally the coil current isnt as critical. but you have all the info there. ohms law tells us (if put into a pascals triangle):

                                                  V
                                            -----------
                                              I   X   R


that is- voltage equals current times resistance. so the 5000 ohm coil draws 24mA (120v divided by 5000 ohms) and the 1500 ohm coil draws 80. might as well go for the 24ma one. also its a rather unusual situation in that the current the relay is switching is less than the switching current itself!! doesnt matter though. if youre curious about wattage then use this formula:

W= V X I  (I stands for amperage. never knew why. it might have stood for intensity or some other such term). so the first relay uses 2.88 W and the second uses 9.6 W

Hamselv:
I was wondering, as I read this thread, if you guys have heard of a powerstrip, which is controlled by a USB wire from the PC? This is a fairly new thing here in Denmark, so I don't know if you already have something similar.

Basically, it is a powerstrip w. 4-5 plugs, which is only powered on when it gets a small voltage through an attached USB cable.  So in effect, the PC has to be turned on and the PC's USB plug has to be activated before any of the devices connected to the powerstrip will be turned on.

Here is a link to a Danish site about the thing. http://www.elspareskinnen.dk/ You won't understand a word of it, but the pictures should give you an idea what I am rambling about. These things are awesome for saving power for all the PC peripherals (printers, speaker sets, monitors etc.). You only need power for the printer when the PC is on, right?

Anyway, in a cabinet, now all you will need to do is turn the PC on and off, and then monitor, marquee lights etc. will light up after the PC has booted.

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