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Nova BigScreen MAME cabinet
skr:
Oh, that's a pity... Works flawless for me from my laptop or mobile though.
I will try to upload here again - it worked for the first post in this topic after resizing the images, but for the second post I could not get past the "security issue", no matter what I tried (resizing to different sizes, cropping) - so I gave up and used Dropbox...
If there are additional hints how to get image uploads here working - you're welcome to share them :)
Zebidee:
What works for me is to crop and resize the images to 1080 max on a side, and save as JPG.
Then:
* Upload the images onto the "NOT A PROJECT" thread.
* Right-click and copy image link onto clipboard.
* Paste the link into your actual project thread.
* Highlight link and click on the INSERT IMAGE button (below the B for BOLD) on the new post toolbar to add IMG tags (or manually type in the tags).
* Image size can also be specified directly in the IMG tags.
As an example, an to demonstrate that you can do it with any pre-loaded images, below is an image uploaded by Ond. I've resized it here to appear small, specifying width=320 - height is automatically adjusted to match. To show it at full size, click on it.
"Quote" my post to see how it was done, then assume Ond's posture and relax...... :cheers:
skr:
Well, thanks for the explanation! I tried again and it seems that the errors were due to one specific image only... :dunno Took another one and now it worked again. Also thanks for the image size thing in the post itself - makes the posts cleaner :)
So I hope it's now working :D
skr:
Next up - the cabinet
Unfortunately the cabinet has seen some moisture during the past 40ish years, resulting in swelling (is that correct?) of some of the lower parts made of chipwood. The severest affected parts being the sides of the foot, those had to be replaced - a decent visual condition of the cabinet is essential to gain accepptance as a piece of furniture in the family :-P
Initial condition of the foot sidepanels:
A mate of mine knows a carpenter with a CNC mill, so I created the outline + screwholes in CAD and he manufactured the parts from laminated chipwood as the original ones. The only missing part was the countersunk part of the holes and the groove for the T-molding (salvaged from the original panels), I did those myself:
Face painted black (as the original panels) and T-molding mounted, finally attached:
The rest of the cabinet was already quite decent. A proper cleaning, new locks, some new screws, a missing service-door in the rear (found this one on ebay) and some touch-up + polishing of the metal parts and the appearance is great :-)
With this done electrics and ventilation have been adapted.
As written above I already installed the PC and the Pi for the marquee + an additional fan for the Pi. For the PC I also wanted to have an additional fan / ventilation, transporting heat out of the cabinet. So I printed a holder for a 80mm fan blowing down behind the PC:
Due to the installation of the PC and the Pi for the marquee I wanted to have separate switches to power the PC, the Pi (or better the 5V power-supply for the Pi and the sound-amplifier to use the original speakers of the cabinet) and the cabinet itself. I integrated those switches in a 3D-printed coverplate for the hole in the back of the foot and combined it with an additional 80mm fan:
The 5V powersupply found its home in the back of the cabinet:
Wiring done:
Missing: software and an overhauled controlpanel :-)
Zebidee:
Wow, that's some nice pro-looking work.
A suggestion: You could have a single momentary power button to turn the whole cab on or off. One button to rule them all.
All you need is a 5v relay, which are cheap. I've linked an example, but you can find them much cheaper than that too.
https://www.amazon.com.au/Relay-Module-Board-High-Trigger/dp/B08CC25N8D
The relay controls the main power, and use the PC to control the relay via 5v trigger (use molex or USB). Then all you need is a single momentary button to power the PC on/off (connect direct to motherboard via header pins). You can either make this button either discreet or obvious, but well away from the control panel.
Do power distribution as you prefer, a simple way is to connect the relay to an old power board/power strip.
I like to use integrate that setup with a PC-style female power input port, "IEC-320". One cable to rule them all, and this way you can remove and stash it for moving, storage etc. They come in different cab-friendly varieties, and those with a built-in fuse, switch and LED are nice. One switch to rule them all. Search for "iec-320 plug switch fuse".
Here's some I've done that a few years ago:
https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,166352.msg1759566.html#msg1759566
FYI - If you read through that thread you might see I later upgraded the relay to a beefier 40A one. I had ongoing power issues with that cab, but ultimately I found my problems were not related to the relay or power distribution setup, but to copper corrosion on the underside of the CRT TV chassis causing uneven power draw. Unfortunately the CRT PCB was no good - I had to replace the entire chassis, but kept the original tube. I failed to document this on the thread.
Some power options stuff is also covered in the BYOAC wiki
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