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B&W Multivector
Tithis:
Paused any work for a bit due to needing to focus on fixing my car. Starting work on the Atari power block. I don't know why it was here, but I seem to have gotten the international version of the block. I wouldn't care but I cannot find the connector for the harness, so I'm gonna end up replacing the connector on the block with the molex one used stateside. It should fit in the L-shape cutout
Started with just a new power cord, making sure to match our wire color standards to the UK one (blue, brown and green vs white, black and green)
Couple of the spades on the fuse block were loose, and when I attempted to squeeze one a bit tighter it snapped. So I just replaced all the connectors, the old ones were really nasty under the old sticky brittle shrink wrap.
Tomorrow I'll be testing out the voltages and pinout before I start putting the new molex connector on. Might put together the wiring harness too, but actually firing up the monitor will wait until I clean up the frame as its got rust I want to clean up and one bit I need to straighten.
Tithis:
Got around to testing the power supply. Took a bit at first because I didn't realize one of the connectors was for the power switch. I had the right connector on some old coindoor, so I just stole that and made a quick jumper to power the thing up. All voltages tested good, though I only need to the 30v-0v-30v and 6.3v heater voltages.
Since I could never find what power connector my supply actually uses I swapped all the wires over to the more standard molex connector.
Then put together the wiring harness.
Removed this deformed bolt and did my best to straighten the frame back with a big clamp
Replaced the anode cup, the old hardened rubber one just felt like it would hard to put on the tube and get anything under to discharge later. I had the chassis from a 19" TV I harvested a tube from and it had a relatively small cup I swapped over. Took ages to slowly massage the anode wire into place.
And finally I tested all the frame transistors per the instructions in andrewb's 6100 guide. Everything looks good there.
I also need to repair the internal wiring harness. The yellow broken wire is for the cathode I believe. Little confused on what is going on with the white wire though.
So one difference between the 19v2000 and G05-802 is that on the 19v2000 there is a connection between the z-amp output/cathode input, and the screen voltage from the HV cage through 5.1megaohms of resistors. It runs from pin 4 of the HV cage to pin 5 of the deflection board. This connection isn't present on the G05-802 and it's absence doesn't seem to cause a problem accord to two other people who have same type of combintion (G05-802 HV cage and 19v2000 deflection board)
The white wire seems to be for that connection since its on pin 4 of the HV cage, but it should be connector the pin 5 on the deflection board, not pin 4 like it seems to have been.
:dunno
Whatever I guess. Since I'm not using it I'll leave it disconnected when I redo the deflection board connector. Once that is complete I think it will be time to fire it up for the first time.
Tithis:
Fixed up the internal wiring harness, used some deox on the neck socket and finally assembled it all last night.
Started it first without the VSTCM and HV Cage, then with the HV Cage, then finally with everything hooked up.
Loaded Asteroids Deluxe onto it just to see it running a game. Tonight I'll try getting MAME running with my laptop to give it more of a test.
jeremymtc:
Black magic! :applaud:
pbj:
Looks beautiful
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