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Project Too Big and Spinny

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TheRetroCarrot:
Disaster struck. Went to put the back panel on and didn't notice s-video port was misaligned by about a mm, tiniest bit of pressure snapped the PCB. Now no video input and severe purity issues on the OSD. Not sure if it's repairable at this point.... 32" CRTs are incredibly difficult to find where I live and all the parts are on order and designed around the size of this display. I'm pretty distraught right now...

TheRetroCarrot:
Well that was incredibly stressful:





These traces are very small, originally I thought the crack might be mild enough I could just scrape back a mm and solder direct, but that was very unreliable. So I bypassed the worst of it with jumper wires. Some of the lower breaks I had no problem bridging. I'm still missing some as s-video and likely my scart input isn't working yet, but my color is normal again and composite video is back...




The purity issue I'll get back to, it's interesting the purity rings seem to do absolutely nothing on this set. It's very sensitive to direction, I get 1 corner discolored if I face it North, but not South. It absolutely does need to degauss on rotation, not a big deal though, it has a very strong degauss coil in this set actually. I also have a manual coil. Magnets correct purity, the issue is as soon as the set degausses it undoes the improvement from magnet placement. The fan thing is very interesting, how close were you putting it? I mean a degaussing tool is basically just a bunch of wire wrapped in a circle from what I understand.

emphatic:
Way to go saving that TV.  :cheers:

Daniel B.:
1st - good job fixing that pcb. I snapped a neck board in half and had no luck and ended up tossing a nice 27" sony about a year ago.

I know it's crazy but it's like the fan motor is acting like a constant degauss which is what is required on one of my sets. Somehow, facing either east or north I cannot get the shadow mask demagnetized even with a powerful coil, or magnets on the metal ring around the tube like I've done in the past. Its a sega astro city cabinet, and I place the fan on the inside of the coin box so honestly the fan is within 12"-20" from the top of the tube, basically next to the chassis board because I at first thought it was overheating because It would get more and more screwy the longer it was on, so I thought an IC was overheating. I'm not super smart with electronics but I understand enough to be dangerous.

You could likely fit a box fan or any fan really either behind the tube or in the base of the cabinet - for example I've also sat the fan on top of my computer tower in the base and that is close enough - I've tried different types of fans, like squirrel cage blowers and regular fans and to be honest the cheapest ones I found at goodwill seemed to be the most reliable. 

Anyways - hope this helps and PM me if you need anymore information. Can't wait to see how you progress on this project!

TheRetroCarrot:
Thanks all :), I'll definitely experiment with a fan, it'd cool the PC as well haha.

The TV isn't quite saved yet, something is still missing on the s-video side. I have an image, but black and white only. I can trace continuity all the way through from the chroma pin so I'm not sure what's going on there. I have beautiful color through RGB now, but I can't get it to sync whatsoever. Currently testing with a SNES Jr and N64 since both are RGB modded, I've tried connecting csync to the svideo luma pin, composite, and main-y on the PCB, none seem to make a difference. I'm not particularly knowledgeable when it comes to electronics, so if anyone is an expert on sync at all help would be appreciated! I've never had to worry about it since I run component for every system I own. The TV Is an AA-2D chassis so plenty of documented mods that all obtain sync from similar locations.

I'd really like to get s-video fully functioning to ensure nothing there is messing with my sync, otherwise I couldn't really care less about it.

EDIT: GOOD NEWSSSSSS. Found another trace and fixed my chroma issues, had a pad I fixed spliced to the wrong side of a resistor. S video fully functional and more importantly RGB is working great and looks absolutely incredible. Back to finalizing my design plans so the woodworking is as easy as scribe and cut... And finish my coin slides and sensor circuitry. It was a sad 15 hour day of no food or breaks, but what a relief to have it working.

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