Its there a way to use touchtunes hardware with windows?

[abispac]

So let me explain. Last time i had a touchtunes jukebox, it was a wallmounted juke with some nice led lights that would flash nicely and the software was still active, but it only had like old songs in it. So knowing that touchtunes its very very picky, I installed my own PC with touch if I remember correctly, but I could not found a way to make the led lightsor the amp to work with windows, so I did not had any light show or amp service. Now I found a new deal on market place, and I've always wanted to have one of this jukes, but I'm afraid the same thing would happen. So I was wondering if anyone here knows a way to have a working light show and amp with windows installed. Thanks for your help.

[lilshawn]

So let me explain. Last time i had a touchtunes jukebox, it was a wallmounted juke with some nice led lights that would flash nicely and the software was still active, but it only had like old songs in it. So knowing that touchtunes its very very picky, I installed my own PC with touch if I remember correctly, but I could not found a way to make the led lightsor the amp to work with windows, so I did not had any light show or amp service. Now I found a new deal on market place, and I've always wanted to have one of this jukes, but I'm afraid the same thing would happen. So I was wondering if anyone here knows a way to have a working light show and amp with windows installed. Thanks for your help.

unfortunately that particular jukebox pictured in your post (the angelina) is very highly integrated and you can't separate the parts out.

The computer, the amps, and the IO board is plugged onto a backplane board though multi-pin DIN 41612 and/or IEC 60603-2 connectors to connect power/audio/data/inputs/outputs and whatnot of the individual components to each other.

the amps need a signal from the IO board to power on. this is also sent through the backplane,  so if you don't have the touchtunes software running to initialize the IO board, you will never have audio, since the audio is fed out of the computer though the backplane board to the IO board, then out of the IO board through the backplane to the amps.

even if you don't use the amps, you have no way of getting audio out of the computer since the audio flows out off the computer through the backplane. you'd have to peel the computer case apart and tap audio out of the computer directly.

you won't have lightshow because it's also handled by the IO board, the IO board has an LED controller built onto it that sends the signals out to the led strips in the back of the machine, and if you don't have the software to initialize the IO board, you wont get a lightshow.

the IO board connects to the computer through a "USB" connection though the backplane and is what handles the lightshow on the front and back of the machine and switching of the signal to tell the amps to power on... and does the audio conversion needed to feed into the amps.

so unfortunately since the IO handles basically...everything... not being able to initialize it means you can't do anything with the jukebox if you change the software since there is going to be zero support though windows for it since it was designed for linux (which is what the touchtunes OS is based on.)

most of this stuff can be bypassed and made to work in a virtuo or ovation wall boxes and all the floor models since the computers and stuff are all separate... you can even easily fake the signal from the IO board to turn on the amps to use your own audio source or computer in these machines.

you could MAYBE modify the playdium walbox if you are really good with electronics... but definitely not the angelina since those 2 machines devices are so integrated, it's almost impossible to separate...you'd have to gut the angelina of everything but the monitor/touchscreen and put all your own stuff in there.

[lilshawn]

I would also be highly suspect of where that jukebox came from, especially being sold on the faceballs marketplace.

That is one of the newest jukeboxes touchtunes has, it's unlikely an operator is just getting rid of it since there is nothing "newer" for anyone to replace it with. (which would be one of the only real reason for an operator to part with it) and also, since to get one of those from touchtunes right now will run you regular price of $6264 plus taxes and shipping.

just sayin' someone could come knocking on your door if you have it.

[abispac]

I would also be highly suspect of where that jukebox came from, especially being sold on the faceballs marketplace.

That is one of the newest jukeboxes touchtunes has, it's unlikely an operator is just getting rid of it since there is nothing "newer" for anyone to replace it with. (which would be one of the only real reason for an operator to part with it) and also, since to get one of those from touchtunes right now will run you regular price of $6264 plus taxes and shipping.

just sayin' someone could come knocking on your door if you have it.

Its a bummer that basically its a cabinet with a working monitor and perhaps working bill aceptor, maybe the top display can be usable if its just a regular display like the monitor? if not, maybe one can be fitted. My suspichius are this was a place owner that didn't returned the juke to its owner and now its trying to make some money, I really wont mind paying 300 bucks for the cabinet with monitor, I can add my own lights and amp, with computer of course.  I really wont mind hocking it up to the internet and have the real owner pick it up as well. But I really doubt that's gonna happen. Do you think I could make my money back selling the inner parts?

[Mike A]

If you think it is stolen, you should not buy it.

[abispac]

If you think it is stolen, you should not buy it.

Well someone is gonna buy it, so I don't think me not buying it would make any difference, like I said I wouldn't mind connecting it to the internet and had the real owner pick it up, since ill have proof of the guy who sold it to me, so no biggie, then if no one shows up or claims it, ill just have a nice cab with some parts to sell.

[lilshawn]

I wouldn't mind connecting it to the internet and had the real owner pick it up, since ill have proof of the guy who sold it to me

uhmm... i don't think thats how that works. Possession of stolen property is a charge that results from having property knowingly obtained through crime in your control. It is not relevant whether you were the one who stole the property, but simply whether it is in your possession and you knew it was stolen.

I mean, it's your money, you can do what you like. 300 bucks is not a going rate for a jukebox like that, and i'm sure someone is going to jail over it.

I would certainly pay 300 bucks to find out my juke was being sold on me.

[Mike A]

He is going to buy it.

Everything he does is shady.

[lilshawn]

 

you win some, you lose some. sometimes you lose more than you bargained for.

[abispac]

He is going to buy it.

Everything he does is shady.

[abispac]

you win some, you lose some. sometimes you lose more than you bargained for.

I really don't like that guy mikea, he is the type of guy that has double moral. And the type of guy that has nothing good to say and he says it anyway.
i do appreciate your great knowledge and sharing it here.
Just for the records, I don't live in the states, we don't have touchtunes hereeither , so we don't know if this was obtained at a sale or where it comes from. It might be stolen, and the way I see it, Ill make my best to find the owner and get my money back, or if no one claims it, ill just use the cabinet to build my own juke. Not really much to do. Thanks for your help.

[abispac]

Looks good, and the good thing is, if you get rid of the io board you can actually install a cheap led controller board and it will take care of all the RGB leds, it does need a separate led control for the front white bezel, but they all look good. Now I have to play with the bill acceptor to see if I can get them to work. Im still not familiar with Mdb bill acceptors. Im not using amplifier to loose some weight, instead ill use Bluetooth for audio.

[lilshawn]

bill acceptors are coded for a cashcode type serial interface for the MDB protocol. you would need some kind of signal convertor to decode the datastream to find out what bill was inserted.

you will also need to send a signal to enable the acceptor to be able to accept bills... otherwise you need to switch it over to stand alone mode.

[abispac]

bill acceptors are coded for a cashcode type serial interface for the MDB protocol. you would need some kind of signal convertor to decode the datastream to find out what bill was inserted.

you will also need to send a signal to enable the acceptor to be able to accept bills... otherwise you need to switch it over to stand alone mode.

Can this be reprogrammed and converted to pulse?I wont mind buying the programer but if they cant be converted to pulse  ain't gonna be much help.  If not ill probably just sell them. In fact I'm gonna sell all the inner parts as I don't have a use for them. I was gonna keep the power source but it wont trow any power either, so I guess the io board manages it to.

[abispac]

Im not an electronics genius but i can sort stuff out. So this is my ghetto diagram on how to use the Angelina power source in order to use power for less, bill acceptors or anything else.
So by tampering with the power supply I was able to see that it has a cable to turn the power supply on or off, by bridgin the ground on that cable with another ground, I was able to get power on the ,5,12 and 24 v line, icanalso get 110v volts out, ill post pictures later on. I wonder if the amps can be tampered this easy. I'ma start opening one and see.

[abispac]

Amps looked easy to tamper too, ima take them to a friend of mine that is an expert on audio, I bet is the same ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---, one cable to be able to turn them on. The amp has 3 cable moles, one for power with 2 cables, another for the speakers, and the main cable to get audio in, and as I imagine some of those cables will enable the amp to work, will see.

[lilshawn]

there are PDF's available for download on the amp makers website. (search ICEpower 125ASX2 datasheet) it comes complete with pinouts of the headers and everything you need to know about how to use them. but in this case, you would just lift out the enable wire out of the harness (P102-2) and leave it floating... that enables the amp.

[abispac]

there are PDF's available for download on the amp makers website. (search ICEpower 125ASX2 datasheet) it comes complete with pinouts of the headers and everything you need to know about how to use them. but in this case, you would just lift out the enable wire out of the harness (P102-2) and leave it floating... that enables the amp.

I got the feeling you already know the secrets to get things working hahaha, thanks for your help. Ill take a look to see if I can get them to work, do you know if the validaotrs can get reprogrammed? i don't mind buying the programer. But if they cant be converted to pulse, I have no use for them.

[lilshawn]

i'm a service technician dealing with tons of these machines.

I can tell you how to configure ICT A6/V6/A7/V7 acceptors, I know nothing of how to configure any other acceptor that may be in there.

if you remove the acceptor from its mount (4 screws) and look at the front, you can slide the panel above the bezel up, away from the bezel about 1/2 inch... and pull it towards you to pull it off.

in there is a 4 switch DIP switch. you will want to configure the switches from 1-4 as on, on, off, off (sw1 and sw2 on) reinstall cover.

then the larger 8 position switch on the side should have them all off except 6 and 7 and the smaller 4 position switch bank should have 1 off, 2 off... then 3 and 4 will determine the pulse length of each dollar pulse which will depend on your controllers ability to read low pulses and how it rejects invalid pulses.

see http://www.ictgroup.com.tw/download/Dip%20Switch/A6.V6-USD4%E8%AA%AA%E6%98%8E%E6%9B%B8SWAUS470-R.pdf for dip switch settings for pulse timings

power on the acceptor and it will be automatically enabled in stand alone mode with pulse output. you will have to modify your power/data cable with the appropriate wires to use pulse mode. check in the A6/V6 manuals for pinouts of the interface for where you should have the common and pulse wires. these wires will be where you connect them to your interface to get "credits" (microcontroller or whatever) the common and pulse wires will be "connected together" for each dollar inserted. (so a $5 bill pulses 5 times, a $1 pulses once, etc.)

EDIT: the programmer you would need would be an FP-001 and you would also need test/calibration cards to calibrate the acceptor after programming, which you won't get unless you bought a kit or bought them separately. i haven't purchased the current FP-004, as i have nothing additional it supports, so i'm no help there. the only reason to re-program or have the tool to begin with is if you need support for newly released bills or you've repaired the optic scanner and need to recalibrate it.... and it's not worth it to buy unless you have a bunch of them (like more than 20)... just pay a local company to do it for you if you just have 1 or 2. (search for game operators or vendors... or the like in your area and ask... we re-program units for 20 bucks each or in bulk by the shops hour rate.) but honestly if it doesn't need reprogramming, there is no advantage to doing it.

hope this helps

[abispac]

i'm a service technician dealing with tons of these machines.

I can tell you how to configure ICT A6/V6/A7/V7 acceptors, I know nothing of how to configure any other acceptor that may be in there.

if you remove the acceptor from its mount (4 screws) and look at the front, you can slide the panel above the bezel up, away from the bezel about 1/2 inch... and pull it towards you to pull it off.

in there is a 4 switch DIP switch. you will want to configure the switches from 1-4 as on, on, off, off (sw1 and sw2 on) reinstall cover.

then the larger 8 position switch on the side should have them all off except 6 and 7 and the smaller 4 position switch bank should have 1 off, 2 off... then 3 and 4 will determine the pulse length of each dollar pulse which will depend on your controllers ability to read low pulses and how it rejects invalid pulses.

see http://www.ictgroup.com.tw/download/Dip%20Switch/A6.V6-USD4%E8%AA%AA%E6%98%8E%E6%9B%B8SWAUS470-R.pdf for dip switch settings for pulse timings

power on the acceptor and it will be automatically enabled in stand alone mode with pulse output. you will have to modify your power/data cable with the appropriate wires to use pulse mode. check in the A6/V6 manuals for pinouts of the interface for where you should have the common and pulse wires. these wires will be where you connect them to your interface to get "credits" (microcontroller or whatever) the common and pulse wires will be "connected together" for each dollar inserted. (so a $5 bill pulses 5 times, a $1 pulses once, etc.)

EDIT: the programmer you would need would be an FP-001 and you would also need test/calibration cards to calibrate the acceptor after programming, which you won't get unless you bought a kit or bought them separately. i haven't purchased the current FP-004, as i have nothing additional it supports, so i'm no help there. the only reason to re-program or have the tool to begin with is if you need support for newly released bills or you've repaired the optic scanner and need to recalibrate it.... and it's not worth it to buy unless you have a bunch of them... just pay a local company to do it for you if you just have 1 or 2. (search for game operators or vendors... or the like in your area and ask... we re-program units for 20 bucks each or in bulk by the shops hour rate.) but honestly if it doesn't need reprogramming, there is no advantage to doing it.

hope this helps

  Much appreciated, thanks. Ill take a look on the amps first, make sure they work, and then ill mess with the bill acceptor.  Have a nice easter.

[abispac]

i'm a service technician dealing with tons of these machines.

I can tell you how to configure ICT A6/V6/A7/V7 acceptors, I know nothing of how to configure any other acceptor that may be in there.

if you remove the acceptor from its mount (4 screws) and look at the front, you can slide the panel above the bezel up, away from the bezel about 1/2 inch... and pull it towards you to pull it off.

in there is a 4 switch DIP switch. you will want to configure the switches from 1-4 as on, on, off, off (sw1 and sw2 on) reinstall cover.

then the larger 8 position switch on the side should have them all off except 6 and 7 and the smaller 4 position switch bank should have 1 off, 2 off... then 3 and 4 will determine the pulse length of each dollar pulse which will depend on your controllers ability to read low pulses and how it rejects invalid pulses.

see http://www.ictgroup.com.tw/download/Dip%20Switch/A6.V6-USD4%E8%AA%AA%E6%98%8E%E6%9B%B8SWAUS470-R.pdf for dip switch settings for pulse timings

power on the acceptor and it will be automatically enabled in stand alone mode with pulse output. you will have to modify your power/data cable with the appropriate wires to use pulse mode. check in the A6/V6 manuals for pinouts of the interface for where you should have the common and pulse wires. these wires will be where you connect them to your interface to get "credits" (microcontroller or whatever) the common and pulse wires will be "connected together" for each dollar inserted. (so a $5 bill pulses 5 times, a $1 pulses once, etc.)

EDIT: the programmer you would need would be an FP-001 and you would also need test/calibration cards to calibrate the acceptor after programming, which you won't get unless you bought a kit or bought them separately. i haven't purchased the current FP-004, as i have nothing additional it supports, so i'm no help there. the only reason to re-program or have the tool to begin with is if you need support for newly released bills or you've repaired the optic scanner and need to recalibrate it.... and it's not worth it to buy unless you have a bunch of them (like more than 20)... just pay a local company to do it for you if you just have 1 or 2. (search for game operators or vendors... or the like in your area and ask... we re-program units for 20 bucks each or in bulk by the shops hour rate.) but honestly if it doesn't need reprogramming, there is no advantage to doing it.

hope this helps

Can I bother you 1 more time today please, I started modifying the bill acceptors, all went smoothly I got the cables off the connector so I can modify them for pulse, but I could not find a pinout for them, but based on the manual I imagine 1 and 2 are for the credits, just as any regular arcade right? a bill is inserted and the acceptor will send x mount of pulses in those cables right? and pin 3 and 20 are gonna be my power supply pins, since the acceptor is 24v, it was previously set on pin16 and 23 but since I ain't using mdb anymore I should use the 24v ones right? and I will have an extra cable that was at pin 14, but since I don't use mdb I don't have a use for it, I can just leave it along correct? Thanks for your help.
In the mean time, I'm also adding my ghetto amp diagram, thanks to Lilshawn for the advice to cut the number 2 cable so the amp can be enable, i traked the other cables and i came up with this, I had not tested this yet as i need to buy cables to hook everything up together with the original power source.

[lilshawn]

pin 1 and 2 is your credit line. most games and machines running pulse mode, just get the credit line switched to ground to detect the pulse...so you'd wire pin 1 (credit relay common) to ground or negative in your system and pin 2 (Credit relay NO) to the credit line.

if your system requires the line to go high for a credit issued, you'd wire pin 1 (credit relay common) to your positive rail (5v or whatever...) and pin 2 (Credit relay NO) to the credit line.

pin 3 and 20 is 24v AC input (it runs through a bridge rectifier anyway so honestly i don't think it matters if it's AC or DC there.)
pin 16 and 23 is UP TO 34v DC input. i think it might work down to 12v? 14v? don't quote me. but it does run 24v DC just fine there.

what juke software did you end up running on there? i don't recognise it at all.

[abispac]

For testing purposes i used etouch, but I'm going to use rockbe jukebox, has a cool paid feature that it will download any missing songs from youtube.
Thanks for all your help.
I started to think that maybe I could used the original computer if I can get it to boot windows and find some drivers. its a crazy idea that I'm going to test today.
As it came to me yesterday to use the long PCB in order to connect everything minus the IO board together, as the power brick will be working directly, so everything  should have power. Including the computer, and the computer mother board has a 64gb m drive I can swap maybe. If I have problems with the bios, I do have a bios programmer handy, perhaps I can find a compatible bios that would work, also the motherboard has missing power button and missing front pannel pins I can use, I hope I can even upgrade the ram to 16gb. Will see today as I have to work today and I doubt I'm gonna be to busy(I work from home) ill post results later on, I just need a little solder paste and put a bridge on the powersource to make everything work.
I know the top visualizer is gonna be hard to use, as I already tested it and couldn'tt find any drivers for it, it does display image from the dvi port, but the resolution is so small, even the mouse pointer is to big for it, so maybe I could use it just for the light. Its in reality an 8by64 matrix led display. Anyway ill keep posting this stuff.
EDIT: I was correct, adding a simple cable bridge on the pinouts for the power source on the IO board connections, would allow the power brick to work, givingpower to the PC and everything else. Allowing the computer to boot. But the bios is protected by a password, I will have to either find the password or replace the bios for another one without a password. I still don't test if it would boot windows. Will see, as if it boots it, I wont need to modify the bios. I also traced the amplifier input pinouts to the IO board connections, so I'm guessing those are the only extra cables I would need. If I ever make the computer to use windows, I wont even bother tapping it to find the audio outs, I will use an USB audio card instead.Everything is coming together nicely, I'm only hope for 2 important things so I font have to buy to much stuff. 1  that the amps work fine as is, and 2 that the computer would work with windows without much trouble.

[lilshawn]

yeah it's a regular old computer. it'll run whatever OS you put on there. drivers might be interesting to find. you might have to pick and choose generic driver sets for like the chipset and whatnot.

that's all the led display at the top is... a secondary monitor with a low resolution. all it does is display an EQ in various colors.

i'm not sure what the password for the angelina bios is. i know the passwords for all the other jukes, but not that one (they are all different) i havent had to get in there on any of the ones we have. it would be like "juke[YEAR]" i'm not sure what year the angelina came out.... maybe 2019? try a bunch of years, you wont get locked out.

[abispac]

Well, it runs windows 11 on mbr mode with no problems not missing to many driver, so hopefully ill find them. Runs of the m driver so perhaps ill change it for a bigger newer one.

[abispac]

I installed windows 11 and found some compatible drivers, all looks good, but I still debating on whether to use that existing 64gb m drive or to replace it with a 1tb drive I have on my work PC, as my work PC really does no use all that much space. I tried juke(year) for the password to see if I could change settings in order to use uefi instead of mbr, but I had no luck , I tried from 1997 to 2025, just in case  to a no good, and I've seen this bios are very picky to read via a USB programmer, so I guess ill stay away from it in order to not screw things up.

So far so good. Im happy with the results, now I'm transferring files in order to test the whole thing live.

[abispac]

So the computer works, and it works fine, but im still debating on wheter i should keep it or not since having the bios locked, it wont give me to many options to modify it in order to save me from trouble in the future. One of them being that the computer wont shut down. And thats important, as i dont want to leave the juke on all the time. Maybe on linux it was not a big  deal to turn the juke on and off of the switch directly, but we all know windows is more picky than that, especially if it has a sata harddrive. Now the second issue is (im getting old and behind on harddrive technology) that even though the computer has a m2 compatible connector, it wont take m2 drives, i tried to use my personal one, and it wont detect it. I beleive its an m2 sata connector? as the drive it has right now its an ssd sata drive, that it looks like an m2, but after looking in google i found out its a sata drive, just like the one at the bottom on the following picture, so to not complicate things more, ill just get me a bigger sata drive, te hardrive with sata cables i mean. So im gonna keep it simple. Also it looks like this  type of bios can be decrypted to get the password, so ima try that in order to have acces to the bios to see if it can be modified so the computer can shut down.So far thats all i got left, if icant make the computer shut down, ill just repurpose it for a recalbox arcade console and sticka mini pc in the juke that would support m2 drive. All depends if i can get the bios password cracked. I really would like to keep it original inside as it looks clean and nice even though it does have a space where the IO board was. Anyway, ill keep posting. To bad my  phone broke and i dont get another one till wesneday, that the reason i post ghetto drawings instead of pictures.

[abispac]

i'm a service technician dealing with tons of these machines.

I can tell you how to configure ICT A6/V6/A7/V7 acceptors, I know nothing of how to configure any other acceptor that may be in there.

if you remove the acceptor from its mount (4 screws) and look at the front, you can slide the panel above the bezel up, away from the bezel about 1/2 inch... and pull it towards you to pull it off.

in there is a 4 switch DIP switch. you will want to configure the switches from 1-4 as on, on, off, off (sw1 and sw2 on) reinstall cover.

then the larger 8 position switch on the side should have them all off except 6 and 7 and the smaller 4 position switch bank should have 1 off, 2 off... then 3 and 4 will determine the pulse length of each dollar pulse which will depend on your controllers ability to read low pulses and how it rejects invalid pulses.

see http://www.ictgroup.com.tw/download/Dip%20Switch/A6.V6-USD4%E8%AA%AA%E6%98%8E%E6%9B%B8SWAUS470-R.pdf for dip switch settings for pulse timings

power on the acceptor and it will be automatically enabled in stand alone mode with pulse output. you will have to modify your power/data cable with the appropriate wires to use pulse mode. check in the A6/V6 manuals for pinouts of the interface for where you should have the common and pulse wires. these wires will be where you connect them to your interface to get "credits" (microcontroller or whatever) the common and pulse wires will be "connected together" for each dollar inserted. (so a $5 bill pulses 5 times, a $1 pulses once, etc.)

EDIT: the programmer you would need would be an FP-001 and you would also need test/calibration cards to calibrate the acceptor after programming, which you won't get unless you bought a kit or bought them separately. i haven't purchased the current FP-004, as i have nothing additional it supports, so i'm no help there. the only reason to re-program or have the tool to begin with is if you need support for newly released bills or you've repaired the optic scanner and need to recalibrate it.... and it's not worth it to buy unless you have a bunch of them (like more than 20)... just pay a local company to do it for you if you just have 1 or 2. (search for game operators or vendors... or the like in your area and ask... we re-program units for 20 bucks each or in bulk by the shops hour rate.) but honestly if it doesn't need reprogramming, there is no advantage to doing it.

hope this helps

So I scratched my head almost all night and I couldn't make the acceptors to work.
I followed all of your instructions but no pulses are detected.
Now I few years back, I did play with a pulse bill acceptor, by using a 5v Arduino relay, it was simple. 5v to the relay, ground to the relay, and the n.o. from the bill acceptor to the in of the relay. Also the ground for the acceptor was together with the relay ground. Doing that , I had the relay outputs to a keyboard encoder and all worked fine.
I've tried to follow the same here, but I get nothing everytime I inset a bill.
The relay won't detect the pulse.
Then I tried adding 5v to the input 1 on the bill acceptor to no good.
Tried different mseconds outputs but nothing seems to work.
I even set 20 pulses per dollar in hopes of seeing something but no go.
I even added the 5v to the n.o. output on the receptor but nothing.happened. At this point I'm not sure what else to do.
My goal is to send a signal to a keyboard encoder as I did in the past. Any advice will be surely appreciated. Thanks.

Edit:  I start to believe that this is a v6 mdb only? as all pulse acceptors are a/6 mine is v6-36f0m-usd4-t5 ?

[abispac]

I think im gonna try some new bill acceptors as these ones don't want to cooperate hahaha, in the meantime, I'm filling up the hard drive and on Friday ima purchase the software, rockbe jukebox. It plays local files, plus for a 5dlls a month feature, you can play missing songs of the internet. Jukebox-looking fly has heck, hopefully, ill have It fully working this month.
If anyone wants to provide advice on these bill acceptors or wants to buy them please let me know, I also can sell the IO board as well.

[mahkeymike]

What juke software is that, freebox jukebox/etouch?

[abispac]

What juke software is that, freebox jukebox/etouch?

Etouch, but its for testing purposes only, ima use rockbe jukebox. Its up to date and the online feature works nice.

[abispac]

Heres how it looks, almost ready.

[mahkeymike]

What juke software is that, freebox jukebox/etouch?

Etouch, but its for testing purposes only, ima use rockbe jukebox. Its up to date and the online feature works nice.

never heard of it, and google pulls up nada on rockbe

[abispac]

What juke software is that, freebox jukebox/etouch?

Etouch, but its for testing purposes only, ima use rockbe jukebox. Its up to date and the online feature works nice.

never heard of it, and google pulls up nada on rockbe

https://rockbeshop.com/ Its in spanish

[mahkeymike]

What juke software is that, freebox jukebox/etouch?

Etouch, but its for testing purposes only, ima use rockbe jukebox. Its up to date and the online feature works nice.

never heard of it, and google pulls up nada on rockbe

https://rockbeshop.com/ Its in spanish

I kinda like freebox/etouch better. You should look into Zenpoint Digital Center.

[abispac]

What juke software is that, freebox jukebox/etouch?

Etouch, but its for testing purposes only, ima use rockbe jukebox. Its up to date and the online feature works nice.

never heard of it, and google pulls up nada on rockbe

https://rockbeshop.com/ Its in spanish

I kinda like freebox/etouch better. You should look into Zenpoint Digital Center.

Etouch was nice for its time, but the tag in the music and videos made it a pain in the ass to configure, plus it always had bugs, always, the skin toll is not so user friendly and the commercial use was to expensive. Rockbe has what I need for the moment, Eazy to use and fair commercial use.

[lilshawn]

So I scratched my head almost all night and I couldn't make the acceptors to work.
I followed all of your instructions but no pulses are detected.
Now I few years back, I did play with a pulse bill acceptor, by using a 5v Arduino relay, it was simple. 5v to the relay, ground to the relay, and the n.o. from the bill acceptor to the in of the relay. Also the ground for the acceptor was together with the relay ground. Doing that , I had the relay outputs to a keyboard encoder and all worked fine.
I've tried to follow the same here, but I get nothing everytime I inset a bill.
The relay won't detect the pulse.
Then I tried adding 5v to the input 1 on the bill acceptor to no good.
Tried different mseconds outputs but nothing seems to work.
I even set 20 pulses per dollar in hopes of seeing something but no go.
I even added the 5v to the n.o. output on the receptor but nothing.happened. At this point I'm not sure what else to do.
My goal is to send a signal to a keyboard encoder as I did in the past. Any advice will be surely appreciated. Thanks.

Edit:  I start to believe that this is a v6 mdb only? as all pulse acceptors are a/6 mine is v6-36f0m-usd4-t5 ?

could be that the additional items on the circuit board required to run the acceptor to output in pulse mode have not been populated. i just looked at a revision "8" board from a newer acceptor that died and all the items related to  the pulse output part are not populated, but a revision "2.2" board from and old unit i have here that died, does... so i'm not sure when it changed. it's possible your board in your acceptor is new enough to not have the parts to output pulse, even though it can be switched to pulse.

[abispac]

So I scratched my head almost all night and I couldn't make the acceptors to work.
I followed all of your instructions but no pulses are detected.
Now I few years back, I did play with a pulse bill acceptor, by using a 5v Arduino relay, it was simple. 5v to the relay, ground to the relay, and the n.o. from the bill acceptor to the in of the relay. Also the ground for the acceptor was together with the relay ground. Doing that , I had the relay outputs to a keyboard encoder and all worked fine.
I've tried to follow the same here, but I get nothing everytime I inset a bill.
The relay won't detect the pulse.
Then I tried adding 5v to the input 1 on the bill acceptor to no good.
Tried different mseconds outputs but nothing seems to work.
I even set 20 pulses per dollar in hopes of seeing something but no go.
I even added the 5v to the n.o. output on the receptor but nothing.happened. At this point I'm not sure what else to do.
My goal is to send a signal to a keyboard encoder as I did in the past. Any advice will be surely appreciated. Thanks.

Edit:  I start to believe that this is a v6 mdb only? as all pulse acceptors are a/6 mine is v6-36f0m-usd4-t5 ?

could be that the additional items on the circuit board required to run the acceptor to output in pulse mode have not been populated. i just looked at a revision "8" board from a newer acceptor that died and all the items related to  the pulse output part are not populated, but a revision "2.2" board from and old unit i have here that died, does... so i'm not sure when it changed. it's possible your board in your acceptor is new enough to not have the parts to output pulse, even though it can be switched to pulse.

Mine looks like this, so I might still have hope?  The green means its the one that works right?

[lilshawn]

yeah, see that looks like it's the "proper" one... so by all rights, it should have what it needs.

unless they re-assigned the pins or something, but i don't think so. unless... i dunno. some are 1 and 2 and on some of the other brands/manufacturers it's like 1 and 14 or something like that. it's supposed to be all universal so you didn't have to swap cables and stuff... but it didn't end up that way sometimes.

[abispac]

yeah, see that looks like it's the "proper" one... so by all rights, it should have what it needs.

unless they re-assigned the pins or something, but i don't think so. unless... i dunno. some are 1 and 2 and on some of the other brands/manufacturers it's like 1 and 14 or something like that. it's supposed to be all universal so you didn't have to swap cables and stuff... but it didn't end up that way sometimes.

Thanks, ill look into that and post results for the future. Thank you kind.

[abispac]

yeah, see that looks like it's the "proper" one... so by all rights, it should have what it needs.

unless they re-assigned the pins or something, but i don't think so. unless... i dunno. some are 1 and 2 and on some of the other brands/manufacturers it's like 1 and 14 or something like that. it's supposed to be all universal so you didn't have to swap cables and stuff... but it didn't end up that way sometimes.

Ok lets try again. Can you please help me understand what I'm doing like a 5 year old please? hahaha
Let me explain. Im used to hook push buttons to arcade games. hot to one end of the keyboard encoder and common to all grounds of every push button, and the main ground to the keyboard encoder. Now, in the past, the bill acceptro I used for a juke, I did hooked it in a similar way, except, that because the pulses were to weak for the keyboard encoder to take them as push buttons, I used an arduino 5v relay to achieve a trick. So if I remember correctly and I might be wrong, this is how i did it. As you can see on the image, i connected the acceptor ground to ground on the relay, injected 5v to vcc and the NO on bill acceptor to gpio or signal. So everytime the bill acceptor would send pulses, they would be converted to regular push button signals that the encoder could detect. Hopefully i explained myself with all this.

So i tried the same approach with this bill acceptor, to a no good result. Using a multimeter, i cant see any pulses coming out of the acceptor.
I really don't understand how low and high signals work, but i imagine the bigger the number the better as the encoder or whatever it take the signal would have more time to read the signal, right?
And you mention ""if your system requires the line to go high for a credit issued, you'd wire pin 1 (credit relay common) to your positive rail (5v or whatever...) and pin 2 (Credit relay NO) to the credit line.""
This confuses me a little bit because i was thinking that adding 5v would make the signal act as a push button signal, and in that case that would make the NO cable a ground cable? maybe I'm mixing things up.

So all that being said, do you by any chance have an idea how can i manage to convert the pulse signal to a regular rpush button signal, without any expensive hardware?
Thanks for your help.

[lilshawn]

the acceptor has all the switching ability in it already. you don't need an external relay or anything. you would just attach the credit NO line to your microcontroller... (probably with like a 10k resistor tied to +5v to hold it high) and attach the credit com to ground.

then program your microcontroller to detect the line going from high (it's normal condition) to low and when it does, issue whatever command you see fit. my recommendation would be to set up the microcontroller as an HID keyboard and have it output a keystroke your software can convert to a credit.

[abispac]

So im gonna have to wait till payday in order to buy the 10k resistor and the arduino in order to test the bill acceptor. In the meantime, I'm still trying to break the bios password in order to see if either 1 , the bios can be modified to allow the PC to be turned on and off with the missing power button that i  want to install if I can modify the bios, or 2 update the bios with a compatible bios in order to add those options. I spent hours looking for a motherboard that looks similar and there are many asus that look like it.Its an  LGA1151 motherboard but that's all i got. I'm not a bios expert, I do have a USB bios reader but the pin is broken so I have to buy one so I can read the bios directly and see if I can break the password.  I have erased bios in the past and replace them with clean one, i just need to find the correct bios or compatible bios so i can replace it.

Now, what happened to the days when you could simply remove the battery and erase the password?

Here I see that it has some options to play with the bios, but since I already removed the battery, pressed the erase bios button and the password persists, I imagine it's like a laptop bios that can't really be fully erased.
I don't know, I'm running out of ideas, but if anyone has fresh ideas, let me know so I can put them to work, thanks for your help.
I also cant seem to find the bios chip, the one marked as baox19 seems suspicious , but I cant find anything about it.
Ps I love how simple and easy to use the rockbe software is.

[lilshawn]

the password is "jukeXXXX" the "XXXX" being the year of the release of the jukebox. probably 2017 or 2018. i don't remember precisely. so like the password is juke2017 or juke2018... something like that.

[abispac]

the password is "jukeXXXX" the "XXXX" being the year of the release of the jukebox. probably 2017 or 2018. i don't remember precisely. so like the password is juke2017 or juke2018... something like that.

Yeah, I already tried them all to no good luck. Yesterday I took the PC apart as you can see in the pictures, and soldered cables to the bios unexistent pinouts to see if using pin 2-3 debug mode, would allow me to erase the bios password.
EDIT: since the startup screen shows 1998-2018 I even tried that number, I tried all from juke1998 to juke2024 and also juke1998-2018 , nothing works.

[abispac]

the password is "jukeXXXX" the "XXXX" being the year of the release of the jukebox. probably 2017 or 2018. i don't remember precisely. so like the password is juke2017 or juke2018... something like that.

 

[abispac]

Man what a trip, thanks for all the help I have received, now with access to the bios, I need to find the options that would let me turn off the computer without cutting the electricity. As right now if I choose shutdown, the computer would just restart. Anyway thanks a lot again Lilshawn. Ill keep posting my stuff here.

[mahkeymike]

What about the power-on signal wire on the atx connector? Its usually green wire. Shorting to ground wire ( black ) should trigger power off?

[lilshawn]

What about the power-on signal wire on the atx connector? Its usually green wire. Shorting to ground wire ( black ) should trigger power off?

quite the opposite, grounding the green power on wire will tell the power supply to power on... regardless if the computer is ready or not. but in this case, won't work, due to the fact that this particular motherboard has nothing but a backplane interface... the computer (i think) just runs on 12v from the power supply box through the backplane connector.



i believe the shutdown issue might be with windows. i've run into the scenario where doing a shutdown results in the computer rebooting and it's usually an update the breaks it since windows thinks it has better drivers for the chipset than I do. (pro tip... no you fugging don't Bill.)

Open the Control Panel

At the top of the old Control Panel, search for "power"

Select "Power & Sleep"

scroll down and choose "Additional power settings"

on the left side of the new window, "choose what the power buttons do"

Under 'Shutdown settings' disable 'Turn on fast startup'

If the box is grayed out, you'll need to click the text at the top that says "Change Settings that are currently unavailable"

in fact... turn off all the things. they don't work, and in a world full of SSD storage, and 32 gigs of ram we dont need to sleep and hibernate and crap anymore. It's pointless cause it was all designed to help computers boot up faster... but these days? who cares if my PC takes 50 seconds to boot instead of 20. it doesn't take 10 minutes anymore.

[mahkeymike]

Have you tried shutdown /r from command prompt?

[abispac]

Update on the bill acceptors: Im giving up on them, It seems they don't output any pulses at all, its ok, I'ma buy some new ones.
Usb audio works nice.
Im having issues with HDMI not sending any video to the second screen. Im not sure if I broke something, as when I was testing the PC the first time, I was using the HDMI output and it worked fine previously. Its ok for now, will look into that later.
There are no visible options to change the computer from always on to be able to shut down. But I'm starting to think it has either a secondary bios or hidden bios options as there is no way to erase the bios password. I don't think the computer not being able to shut down has anything to do with windows, since I've already formated the PC again in uefi mode since I changed the bios for that.
Im 100% sure its either a hidden bios option or a an option on the power button.
Perhaps ill use it just as it is working now, and in the future ill replace the PC with a regular mini itx PC. But ill keep digging for future information.
The Bios has me wondering, because like I said before, you cant erase the main pasnsword, yes you can set an administrator password and an user password, but if you want to get into de bios, you still have to use the original password, so it has to have hidden options.
Anyway ill keep posting as I still play with it. I still don't have have powerful enough speakers to test the amps.
Right now I'm using my bedroom sound bar hehehe with the USB to aux dongle.
I really love this software, easy to use, no tag friendly, and being able to play music from the internet, makes not having to update your juke a nice feature. To bad is in Spanish.
Ill post a video later tomorrow.

[lilshawn]

yeah, that whole board was custom made for touchtunes, it only makes sense that they'd have the bios custom made to as well.

i guess a guy could rip the bios out of the chip, load the bios into a hex editor... dig to find the area where the password is hard coded and remove it. unless you could find out who made it and contact the company directly and see about a generic bios for it. i see it's FCC marked, so you might be able to find an FCC number or registration on the board someplace and find the FCC testing file. that document will tell you who made it.

i've had mixed luck with doing that. some companies have no problem giving me an updated generic bios or other information about the boards...... while others cling onto the this is intellectual property of touchtunes thing and refuse to do anything and would rather i talk to them about it.

but yeah, this is why these jukes are so hard to mess with...so much proprietary stuff in some of them.

windows is weird with displays sometimes... it all depends on what the motherboard is treating the primary display as.

you may have to navigate your way to the Device Manager and check for any warning signs next to your graphics drivers. might be something there screwing it up. some kind of monitor or display device should show up there, if it's not, it'll need more looking into.

[abispac]

yeah, that whole board was custom made for touchtunes, it only makes sense that they'd have the bios custom made to as well.

i guess a guy could rip the bios out of the chip, load the bios into a hex editor... dig to find the area where the password is hard coded and remove it. unless you could find out who made it and contact the company directly and see about a generic bios for it. i see it's FCC marked, so you might be able to find an FCC number or registration on the board someplace and find the FCC testing file. that document will tell you who made it.

i've had mixed luck with doing that. some companies have no problem giving me an updated generic bios or other information about the boards...... while others cling onto the this is intellectual property of touchtunes thing and refuse to do anything and would rather i talk to them about it.

but yeah, this is why these jukes are so hard to mess with...so much proprietary stuff in some of them.

windows is weird with displays sometimes... it all depends on what the motherboard is treating the primary display as.

you may have to navigate your way to the Device Manager and check for any warning signs next to your graphics drivers. might be something there screwing it up. some kind of monitor or display device should show up there, if it's not, it'll need more looking into.

Ill just put it to work like it is now and buy a new computer once I get money out of it hehehe, but it was a great learning curve. thanks Lilshawn for all the help.

[abispac]

So the old owner of the angelina, liked the juke so much, he is willing to trade it for virtuo with the base included, I believe the base is the speaker.... Should I do the trade?

Mr LilShawn, can you enlight me on the hardware difference, beside having a credit card reader and a bigger screen....

Thanks for your feedback.

[lilshawn]

virtuo is okay.

early models have issues with black spots appearing on the LCD panels due to a manufacturing defect. later models have no panel issues... but some issues with bad caps on the  backlight inverters. newer ones have LED backlit panels and have issues with the caps going bad on the LVDS board. the later 2 being fixable... the spots, not at all other than panel replacement. good luck finding a panel to replace it....it's a weird size and wasn't available for long.

the computer is decent. it's output audio via regular headphone jacks so no messing around there. you will need a "red" DI box to convert the audio from the computer to the amp (amp accepts balanced audio over ethernet...the IO board does this so you'll have to sub the red DI box to do this.)

the card reader is worthless as it's been disabled due to new PCI credit card processing rules rules... making it non-compliant.

the stand should have woofers built into it... it should also have some satellite speakers attached to either side as well.

[abispac]

virtuo is okay.

early models have issues with black spots appearing on the LCD panels due to a manufacturing defect. later models have no panel issues... but some issues with bad caps on the  backlight inverters. newer ones have LED backlit panels and have issues with the caps going bad on the LVDS board. the later 2 being fixable... the spots, not at all other than panel replacement. good luck finding a panel to replace it....it's a weird size and wasn't available for long.

the computer is decent. it's output audio via regular headphone jacks so no messing around there. you will need a "red" DI box to convert the audio from the computer to the amp (amp accepts balanced audio over ethernet...the IO board does this so you'll have to sub the red DI box to do this.)

the card reader is worthless as it's been disabled due to new PCI credit card processing rules rules... making it non-compliant.

the stand should have woofers built into it... it should also have some satellite speakers attached to either side as well.

Sounds like I should keep the Angelina then, I really don't have an use for the stand. Im sending the acceptors today to a dealer that would update them to a regular non touchtunes firmware in order for me to use them as 12v pulse type.  Thats all that is left before I put it in a place to work.
The guy wants 600 DLLs for the virtuo wich is a great deal, but I don't have that kind a money right now.
Im hoping for a Christmas miracle on may hehehe

[mahkeymike]

Your not in the US correct?(shame) i would go with the Virtuo, the earlier models have a ps2 keyboard port 

[abispac]

Your not in the US correct?(shame) i would go with the Virtuo, the earlier models have a ps2 keyboard port 

No I'm not in the US, the guy said someone owed him money and payed him with the Angelina and the virtuo, that's why he ain't afraid to post them , he did not steal them. Once I had the videos of the Angelina working with another software, he wanted to trade them. BUt I think I'm stay for the reason Im about to accommodate the Angelina at a bar, and don't want to spend another 2 months trying to get the virtuo working. Maybe if I see that the bar is giving good earnings, ill buy the virtuo as well.

[abispac]

So i didnt had the time to test whether the amps were working correctly or not, today I did that, turns out my pinout was somehow wrong. If you look at the picture, you can see, there are 4 audio outlets and 1 ground, thats left right for amp 1, and left right for amp 2, ground is shared. They work nice and sound great, although I don't like that when I turn the PC on, theres a pop sound on the speaker as the USB audio interface turns on and of several times. Il see if I can find a work around for that.
Im also waiting for  local currency bill acceptor that I bought to see if I can make it fit in there without to much modification on the outside. Also I did send out the acceptors I had to a company that will update them with 2018 pulse firmware, he said and I quote.

The PULSE protocol was only included with our V6 (Vending) models, per Touchtunes' request to support their older legacy jukeboxes. Since 2018, TT no longer supports these older legacy configurations and have since then removed that interface from the V6 firmware. Thus, the V6 now only supports the MDB protocol, as originally anticipated.

We still have archived versions of this firmware available, but it's not advised to use them, as they will lack any newer security and bill pattern updates to block counterfeit bills and allow for better acceptance

To be honest, we don't get many dollar users here, so I'm not worried about people using fake money to play music, so I did go with it, I'm just waiting for them to arrive and test them out.

Once I install the acceptors, and everything gets to be working correctly, then I'ma think to see if I should exchange it for the virtuo with speaker stand or if I should keep it, will see.

[mahkeymike]

What country are you from? I would be interested in the Angelina guts ( mobo, ioboard, ect...ect )

[abispac]

What country are you from? I would be interested in the Angelina guts ( mobo, ioboard, ect...ect )

I got nothing to sell, the juke is working with all of its original hardware minus the IO board, Im even using the led matrix for RGB lights. Lik ei said, I'm using rockbe irocker touch lite, as the software, its simple and works nice, has some nice features as well, plus if you are missing a song or something new comes up, it will pull up the song/video from youtube.  Ill post a nice video of it tomorrow.

[abispac]

virtuo is okay.

early models have issues with black spots appearing on the LCD panels due to a manufacturing defect. later models have no panel issues... but some issues with bad caps on the  backlight inverters. newer ones have LED backlit panels and have issues with the caps going bad on the LVDS board. the later 2 being fixable... the spots, not at all other than panel replacement. good luck finding a panel to replace it....it's a weird size and wasn't available for long.

the computer is decent. it's output audio via regular headphone jacks so no messing around there. you will need a "red" DI box to convert the audio from the computer to the amp (amp accepts balanced audio over ethernet...the IO board does this so you'll have to sub the red DI box to do this.)

the card reader is worthless as it's been disabled due to new PCI credit card processing rules rules... making it non-compliant.

the stand should have woofers built into it... it should also have some satellite speakers attached to either side as well.

Sorry to bother you again, I'm still considering to exchange the Angelina for the virtuo, but I'm thinking on keeping the Angelina amps. By any chance, do you think its easy to modify the blue amp to make it work with reguralr sound, I mean without the red box? Or since it comes with a stand speaker, it should have the red box already?  Thanks for your time.

[lilshawn]

virtuo is okay.

early models have issues with black spots appearing on the LCD panels due to a manufacturing defect. later models have no panel issues... but some issues with bad caps on the  backlight inverters. newer ones have LED backlit panels and have issues with the caps going bad on the LVDS board. the later 2 being fixable... the spots, not at all other than panel replacement. good luck finding a panel to replace it....it's a weird size and wasn't available for long.

the computer is decent. it's output audio via regular headphone jacks so no messing around there. you will need a "red" DI box to convert the audio from the computer to the amp (amp accepts balanced audio over ethernet...the IO board does this so you'll have to sub the red DI box to do this.)

the card reader is worthless as it's been disabled due to new PCI credit card processing rules rules... making it non-compliant.

the stand should have woofers built into it... it should also have some satellite speakers attached to either side as well.

Sorry to bother you again, I'm still considering to exchange the Angelina for the virtuo, but I'm thinking on keeping the Angelina amps. By any chance, do you think its easy to modify the blue amp to make it work with reguralr sound, I mean without the red box? Or since it comes with a stand speaker, it should have the red box already?  Thanks for your time.

i don't know how the stand is configured exactly... they are made by a 3rd party.

the amps are the exact same amps... they just stuck 2 of the modules in the same box.

with using a red DI box, you don't need to change the amps at all... it's literally how they interconnect.

the "red" DI box has RCA input and and Ethernet cable balanced output. then, the other end of the cat 5 plugs right into the amp. you have to supply 12v to the DI box to power it. you can buy a pre-made power adapter that plugs right in, or just wire on a 12v power brick or other supply to the appropriate places on the board.

the "BLUE" DI boxes convert the balanced audio ethernet back into standard RCA (for instance, connecting from the IO board zones to an external house system)

since you won't be using the IO board, you won't need any blue DI boxes unless you want to convert your computer audio to balanced with a red box...send it long distance over an ethernet cable, then convert it back to RCA to hook up to a house system.

one red DI box can feed audio out to 2 amps when externally powered, which is enough for the amp in the virtuo. (since it's 2 amps in one case) if you need feed a DA415 blue amp as well, you'll need another red DI box for that amp.

the DA415 amp will likely need the caps in the amp serviced. they all do.

[abispac]

Im like 80% inclined to trade it for the virtuo just for the stand, that it should be a speaker to. but I'm not sure if the computer will be powerful enough as the Angelina computer, it shouldn't be a problem,I can always install a better one. Also I really  don't like the blue ampas it looks more complicated to use as the current amps were easy to hack and use, I wonder if the virtuo led will also be easy to hack as the angelinas were, basically just bypass the original led controls and install a cheap Chinese control.i could install a coin acceptor where the cc reader is. And to be honest, I've always wanted a virtuo instead of an Angelina, I love the virtuo design, like a giant mp3 player.

[lilshawn]

honestly, the virtuo is 100x easier to play around with. the computer is a regular ITX motherboard. the power supply is basically a modified ATX power supply (addition of +24vdc to run monitor and bill acceptors) so if you want to swap it out for something different, it's pretty easy.

since it's a regular old computer motherboard, the audio comes out of the same regular old 1/8" headphone jacks on the motherboard back panel as your average desktop... so getting audio out is super easy. the older 300651-001 part number computers are kinda meh performance wise, the 300759-001 were mush better.

the RGB rim lighting is a 3 pin system (not sure which though) you'll have to look more into it. basically power, ground and a data wire. it's RGB...but not individually addressable.

the LED pixel array display on top is basically a HUB73 LED panel with a custom controller that accepts DVI/HDMI and acts as a very large, but low resolution monitor... there where 2 or 3 versions of this panel so you'll have to count out the pixels and create yourself a custom resolution for it...(it'll be like 24x120 ) then just feed it a DVI/HDMI signal and put whatever you want on there as if it is an extended display.

if the LED array has one half that is all messed up, (common issue) replacing an IC chip (74HC245) on that half of the display fixes it. it will probably need the caps changed out on it. most do.

LCD monitor usually needs the caps changed out on the backlight inverter board. 4 screws and it comes right out. don't need to take the panel out or anything.

like anything that is getting old, most stuff needs caps replace in them due to cheap china caps being used in manufacturing. the only devices I've never had an issue with is the power supply (short of lightning strikes/power surges killing them) and the amps (Danish engineering FTW) i've repaired everything else in these machines.

[abispac]

honestly, the virtuo is 100x easier to play around with. the computer is a regular ITX motherboard. the power supply is basically a modified ATX power supply (addition of +24vdc to run monitor and bill acceptors) so if you want to swap it out for something different, it's pretty easy.

since it's a regular old computer motherboard, the audio comes out of the same regular old 1/8" headphone jacks on the motherboard back panel as your average desktop... so getting audio out is super easy. the older 300651-001 part number computers are kinda meh performance wise, the 300759-001 were mush better.

the RGB rim lighting is a 3 pin system (not sure which though) you'll have to look more into it. basically power, ground and a data wire. it's RGB...but not individually addressable.

the LED pixel array display on top is basically a HUB73 LED panel with a custom controller that accepts DVI/HDMI and acts as a very large, but low resolution monitor... there where 2 or 3 versions of this panel so you'll have to count out the pixels and create yourself a custom resolution for it...(it'll be like 24x120 ) then just feed it a DVI/HDMI signal and put whatever you want on there as if it is an extended display.

if the LED array has one half that is all messed up, (common issue) replacing an IC chip (74HC245) on that half of the display fixes it. it will probably need the caps changed out on it. most do.

LCD monitor usually needs the caps changed out on the backlight inverter board. 4 screws and it comes right out. don't need to take the panel out or anything.

like anything that is getting old, most stuff needs caps replace in them due to cheap china caps being used in manufacturing. the only devices I've never had an issue with is the power supply (short of lightning strikes/power surges killing them) and the amps (Danish engineering FTW) i've repaired everything else in these machines.

Do you know if the computer uses an m drive as the Angelina? because using a regular data drive on the Angelina makes things awful slower. I ended up using the original m drive plus an USB 3.0 to m2 drive adapter for the music files.

[lilshawn]

the 651 computer does not, it only has sata.

i'm unsure of the 759.

[abispac]

YEs, i just had my tp70 bill acceptor delivered today, I'm gonna have to make some adjustments to fit there, but it should work, ill post some pictures later on today.

[abispac]

So the to70 acceptor works, but its weird how it works only with the arduino and not with the relay itself, but Lilshawn its correct, using the arduino as hid keyboard encoder will make things easier. Today I got this pictures,  the guy wants 500 for the virtuo jukebox with the stand included. Im gonna buy it to.

[abispac]

the 651 computer does not, it only has sata.

i'm unsure of the 759.

This one is the 759 so it should be the last model tye I guess. Hope I don't get to many blown caps problems.

[abispac]

No super glue or silicon glue needed, YES, so I detached the front bottom part, and took it apart, and without the front cover of the bill acceptor, it has 2 screw holes in the front, all I had to do was, modify the steel part of the juke, as open the hole a bit more, added 2 drywall screws, and it fits just right. feels strong so we can call it a successful mod. Now I have a working 12v pulse tp70 bill acceptor. Now today ill see where do I install the arduino so I can hook the bottom hidden push buttons and the bill acceptors. Stay tuned for more.

[lilshawn]

that virtuo door has been pried open, so it's going to need a bit of work to get the latches lined back up again to get it closing and latching closed proper again.

that monitor in there is an older monitor. if you can get the guy to power it on and see that the monitor working before you hand over cash, that would be best. if the picture looks good, your golden. if it has black spots, i'd avoid it. the panels are an odd size (26") and not really available anymore. a new unit from touchtunes runs about 1100 buckazoids. if it looks good, and you do get it, recap the backlight inverter.

the LED array board has been replaced with a newer revision. it has a 16x72 (i think) resolution. it is less prone to capacitor and decoder IC failure issues, but more prone to pixel issues.

[abispac]

So i couldnt find a danm compatible arduino I could use as a hid keyboard, so I'm gonna go with an old trick. Back in the day like 10 years ago or more, people was crazy to have a jukebox at theirhomes or partys. Man I really made money selling some ugly home made jukeboxes, with sk jukebox first, then with freebox, now those days are over. But I remembered that , to use sk jukebox with use some kind of membrane keyboard to use the software, so I posted the ad lookingfor one of them, and voala, I found one for 25 bucks, kinda expensive for this days, but I don't have to wait for shipping. Anyway, it can be used for the bill accpetors plus adds some buttons to it as well, so I can ad the cancel and volume buttons. Anyway ill post results later on today.

[abispac]

Yes, it works, tomorrow i should get the reprogrammed v6 acceptor and will test them to. If the job was well done, it should work out of the box.

[lilshawn]

meh, you do what you can to make it work sometimes. 

i have a bunch of Minimus AVR boards that i got back in the Kade days... 10 some odd years back, that are already setup to take pin signals going low and turn them into various keyboard key presses. (all configurable) shows up as a USB keyboard to windows. shame they didn't do more... it's was looking like a solid project.

in any case, a program called "atmel flip" will update the bootloader of your arduino so you can upload a keyboard HID file into it, so it just boots directly to HID mode. https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Make-a-Arduino-HID-Keyboard/

[abispac]

V6 acceptor are back, they are not working, I hate when this happens. They said they updated the firmware but no pulse or 5v are coming out of the credit wires. ktemen.... 

[abispac]

meh, you do what you can to make it work sometimes. 

i have a bunch of Minimus AVR boards that i got back in the Kade days... 10 some odd years back, that are already setup to take pin signals going low and turn them into various keyboard key presses. (all configurable) shows up as a USB keyboard to windows. shame they didn't do more... it's was looking like a solid project.

in any case, a program called "atmel flip" will update the bootloader of your arduino so you can upload a keyboard HID file into it, so it just boots directly to HID mode. https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Make-a-Arduino-HID-Keyboard/

I got a working acceptor already with the board I posted earlier, the ardionos I get locally, are either atmega 328 or smd something like that,both are not compatible to turn them into hid keyboards.  To bad the original v6 wont work, I really trusted that payway company, but they did not do a good job. I only canhope to get my money back, minus the shipping. I hate when people do that, I mean I'm pretty sure all they did was upload the old firmware and they didn't care about testing them, even though they said they tested them out, its a lie, because once they got to my home, they magically wont work. Freaking liars.  If I get my money back , I'm buying another acceptor.

[abispac]

Turns out both harneses are defective, using some arduino cables, the acceptors work fine.

[lilshawn]

Turns out both harneses are defective, using some arduino cables, the acceptors work fine.

highly related...

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ofKg65lNiB0

[abispac]

Turns out both harneses are defective, using some arduino cables, the acceptors work fine.

highly related...

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ofKg65lNiB0

hahahaha , well the weird part is, with a multimeter the harness looks ok, all colors and terminal match, but my guess is, that the inside pins of the harness, don't make good contact at all with the pins on the acceptor.But why does the acceptor turns on? And I tried multiple ways with different combinations. perhaps the type of copper or metal of that particular harness is not good for pulses? Can that be possible? the pulses not reaching out all the way to the encoder because of the metal type that wire uses that the pulses fade down? I also wonder if that was my problem to start with, and I didn't need to downgrade the firmware. Ill make a few more tests on the virtuo too see if that was the problem.

[abispac]

Well, i just need to install a new lock and we can call it a day. Thanks Lilshawn for all the help, could not have done this without you.

[abispac]

Sorry , forgot to post images of the inside, plus, at the end I had to replace the lock with a regular tubular arcade lock, all works just fine. Ive never been a great detailed guy, I'm more of like, if it work it works, ---fudgesicle--- it. I still think on why the acceptors did not worked with regular harness, but if I get to work on the virtuo I'm make more tests and post results.

[abispac]

Lets continue with part 2 on this, and I really would appreciate your help again Mr. Lilshawn, especially in getting the amp working, as I'm sure installing windows will be easy, if not I can just install another PC.
The Angelina I did a raffle for a sick friend of mine and I no longer have it. We gathered 2000 DLLs for him and he will use them for therapy after having a brain injury, He is doing great.So I'm glad it was for a good use, anyway, I got this one for the great price of 350dlls,including the stand. So the goal is gonna be the same, install windows and setthis free. Maybe uninstall the card reader and replace it with  a coin acceptor and I see it has a 4th slot, maybe replace it with the local bill acceptor too....will see that later, the thing I care the most would be using the built-in apms and speakers.  Anyway , ill post more pictures as time goes by.

[lilshawn]

again... remove IO board...it will not be used.

ideally, what you want is a RED color DI box.

https://documents.touchtunes.com/900747-001-Line-In%20DI-box%20Guide-Rev.00_online.pdf

this will allow you to use an 1/8" phono plug to RCA adapter to feed audio from the computer into the DI box...and then the DI box feeds directly into the amp input using a short ethernet cable. (you have 2 plugged into the IO board right now) that way you don't have to modify the amps at all to be able to feed audio into them.

you then you use another short ethernet cable to feed audio from the out/through port on the side of the amp to the input side of the other side of the amp, supplying audio to both amps.

then you will have to do one of 4 things, you will either have to...

build a hack cable to feed 12v in to power the DI box. (ethernet pins 4 (ground) and 5 (12v) that supply power to the DI pox to power it's electronics.) since you are using only one port, you can chop off an ethernet cable end and use blue for (-) and White/blue for (+)

build a supply with a 12v powerpack/plug/wallwart type of supply with a DIN plug wired on to power the DI box. (DIN pin 5 is 12v and pin 3 or 4 is ground (negative))

a 12v supply directly wired into the DI box (soldered to DIN plug contacts on PCB)

buy a power supply with the DIN plug already to go. such as part number 300099-118 (good luck finding them though)

when you power the DI box, the green LED's (or red LED depending on which version you have) will light, this DI will also power the amp turn on circuitry and turn the amps on.

[abispac]

Man, this is gonna be a bit more complicated hahaha, I still don't have the juke at my house, so I want to imagine that the stand should already had the red box thingy, I can only cross my fingers, this is the stand but the looks of the picture. https://legacydist.com/products/virtuo-stand/ Will once I get the juke at home, thanks Lilshawn

[lilshawn]

the red DI boxes are to interface regular "unbalanced" audio from a device like a TV or radio, convert it into a "balanced" signal that is immune to interference...  and sends it down the ethernet cable. at the other end, in the IO board, a circuit takes the balanced audio and sums the signals (eliminating the noise) turning it back into unbalanced audio.

there is a "blue" DI box that does the opposite (same as the IO board) converts the balanced signal back into an unbalanced signal that you can feed into a house system or receiver.

it's not terribly complicated. I use a similar DI box setup at home. my computer has a "red" DI box on it, it's patched into a pair of "blue" boxes (daisy chained together) which have their outputs feeding into 2 amps, one for my speakers, and the other for a subwoofer. the red DI box is powered through an adapter from my computer's power supply, so when the computer goes on, the boxes turn on.


since the virtuo amp natively takes a balanced signal, you can just feed the signal from a red DI box (which outputs a balanced signal anyway)

please note that this setup is not the same as the cheapo "RCA balun" using ethernet cable adapters you see all over the amazons, These devices have their uses... but you would likely introduce signal noise and degradation if they are not carefully run, even though they are described as being immune to noise and such. They are not. they simply run the audio signal as it comes out of your device through a small center tapped transformer (producing a + and - signal) and runs that down the cable. problem is, line level audio is often only about 1 volt... so it's not hard to introduce a half volt of noise by simply running near a power wire in your ceiling or wall... basically nuking 50% of your signal.

The touchtunes DI boxes convert the signal into a +11v and -11v signal (hence the need for a 12v power source to run them) so even if that same 0.5v AC ripple noise got in there, the sum circuit takes care of it... and even if it did squeak through... it would be ~4% of the overall signal. or about 0.04v of your 1 volt signal... basically inaudible. it's the best way to transport audio without having noise being introduced.

[abispac]

Well, i still dont have the juke at home, I imagine those stands must have red or blue boxes to make the juke work with their non touchtunes speakers work, I canonly hope for that, will see, on Sunday, mu causing will bring me the juke itself, and hopefully sometime next week someone can bring me the stand. Thanks Lilshanw, I appreciate your help, it looks like you are the only helping member, I can only help so much on the software forum. Thank you sir.

[lilshawn]

I imagine those stands must have red or blue boxes to make the juke work with their non touchtunes speakers work

well... no, the speakers would hook up to the amp in the virtuo. since it's the IO board that does the audio... and it natively outputs and inputs balanced audio... AAANNND since you aren't going to be able to use the IO board when you do your conversion.... you need to replace it's audio function. this is where the Red DI box comes in.

see if your guy that you are buying this juke from has one. anyone dealing with touchtunes stuff should have amassed a bunch of DI boxes. but if not, let me know.

[abispac]

I imagine those stands must have red or blue boxes to make the juke work with their non touchtunes speakers work

well... no, the speakers would hook up to the amp in the virtuo. since it's the IO board that does the audio... and it natively outputs and inputs balanced audio... AAANNND since you aren't going to be able to use the IO board when you do your conversion.... you need to replace it's audio function. this is where the Red DI box comes in.

see if your guy that you are buying this juke from has one. anyone dealing with touchtunes stuff should have amassed a bunch of DI boxes. but if not, let me know.

Thanks for the offer, yes , I cant wait to get my hand on this thing hahaha.

[abispac]

By taking a closer look at this picture, it looks like the zone 3 cable goes to the back of the juke, and then some audio cables are routed to the top, wich makes me think they are going to the sonny speakers on the side of the juke, so hopefully yes , there's a red box in there hahaha, I hate waiting for this, I want to get ma hands on it already hahaha.

[lilshawn]

The zone 3 cable likely runs into either a DA415 amp or another DA915 amp in the base or into a "blue" DI box to run into a separate conventional amp (crown, etc.)

if you end up needing a red DI box or other things, maybe we can trade. let me know when you've had a chance to check it out.

[abispac]

The zone 3 cable likely runs into either a DA415 amp or another DA915 amp in the base or into a "blue" DI box to run into a separate conventional amp (crown, etc.)

if you end up needing a red DI box or other things, maybe we can trade. let me know when you've had a chance to check it out.

Yes sir, what do you need or what are you looking for? I'm supposed to have the juke at my home tomorrow, I was gonna ask, by any chance do you know where I can buy an Angelina braket? i been looking for one to a no good luck, the winner of the raffle needs one, I was going to offer the stand I own now, but ill rather keep it to myself.

[abispac]

virtuo is okay.

early models have issues with black spots appearing on the LCD panels due to a manufacturing defect. later models have no panel issues... but some issues with bad caps on the  backlight inverters. newer ones have LED backlit panels and have issues with the caps going bad on the LVDS board. the later 2 being fixable... the spots, not at all other than panel replacement. good luck finding a panel to replace it....it's a weird size and wasn't available for long.

the computer is decent. it's output audio via regular headphone jacks so no messing around there. you will need a "red" DI box to convert the audio from the computer to the amp (amp accepts balanced audio over ethernet...the IO board does this so you'll have to sub the red DI box to do this.)

the card reader is worthless as it's been disabled due to new PCI credit card processing rules rules... making it non-compliant.

the stand should have woofers built into it... it should also have some satellite speakers attached to either side as well.

Sorry to bother you again, I'm still considering to exchange the Angelina for the virtuo, but I'm thinking on keeping the Angelina amps. By any chance, do you think its easy to modify the blue amp to make it work with reguralr sound, I mean without the red box? Or since it comes with a stand speaker, it should have the red box already?  Thanks for your time.

i don't know how the stand is configured exactly... they are made by a 3rd party.

the amps are the exact same amps... they just stuck 2 of the modules in the same box.

with using a red DI box, you don't need to change the amps at all... it's literally how they interconnect.

the "red" DI box has RCA input and and Ethernet cable balanced output. then, the other end of the cat 5 plugs right into the amp. you have to supply 12v to the DI box to power it. you can buy a pre-made power adapter that plugs right in, or just wire on a 12v power brick or other supply to the appropriate places on the board.

the "BLUE" DI boxes convert the balanced audio ethernet back into standard RCA (for instance, connecting from the IO board zones to an external house system)

since you won't be using the IO board, you won't need any blue DI boxes unless you want to convert your computer audio to balanced with a red box...send it long distance over an ethernet cable, then convert it back to RCA to hook up to a house system.

one red DI box can feed audio out to 2 amps when externally powered, which is enough for the amp in the virtuo. (since it's 2 amps in one case) if you need feed a DA415 blue amp as well, you'll need another red DI box for that amp.

the DA415 amp will likely need the caps in the amp serviced. they all do.

So the juke its getting ready to be delivered today, I saw that its missing one of the satellite speakers, that's ok, I can buy another one, I was taking a look at this old message, that you mention that this amp its the same as the Angelina amps , as it has 2 units cramped inside, did I understood correctly?

and don't forget my previes message   "Yes sir, what do you need or what are you looking for? I'm supposed to have the juke at my home tomorrow, I was gonna ask, by any chance do you know where I can buy an Angelina braket? i been looking for one to a no good luck, the winner of the raffle needs one, I was going to offer the stand I own now, but ill rather keep it to myself."

Cheers.

[lilshawn]

Yes sir, what do you need or what are you looking for? I'm supposed to have the juke at my home tomorrow, I was gonna ask, by any chance do you know where I can buy an Angelina braket? i been looking for one to a no good luck, the winner of the raffle needs one, I was going to offer the stand I own now, but ill rather keep it to myself.

I have nothing extra for the angelina kicking around, and touchtunes wants about 100 bucks for just the bracket plus tax and shipping.

I do on the other hand, have a pile of extra Virtuo brackets... I can cut one up and modify it to work with the angelina if that interests you. I have an angelina in the shop right now that i can test the bracket with.

I'm always in need of virtuo IO boards, and since you won't be using it... i'll gladly trade my made up bracket and the DI boxes you might need, for the IO board if that interests you.

the virtuo amp (DA-950V) is the same B&O amp board that is contained within the angelina amp(s)... it has 2 of them in the same case... as well as a board that does the audio conversion (the "ethernet" audio that comes out of the IO board), into an audio signal the amp can use, AC power, and amp turn on signals in... as well as the amp status lights and speaker connections back out. so it's basically a 4 channel amp  (2 seperate left and right "zones")

if you have a "blue" DA-415 or DA415+ amp, it will also require a DI box to feed audio into it. Much like the DA-950V it has an input board that does the audio conversion and the speaker connections back out.

as I explained previously regarding the balanced audio,  the amp takes the balanced +11v, -11v, and ground for the audio signal in for processing... if you try to feed in a 1 volt line level signal directly from an audio source into the amp... you won't get much out of the circuit and going into the amp board itself. while it is TECHNICALLY do-able, you are looking at dissembling the amp, removing the board and making your own input and output on the amps... which is probably going to be more work than you want to do. (in a pinch, I have done this after a board failure just for a short time while i got a replacement board.)

now, the angelina amps are slightly different, in that they do not take balanced audio into them. they take regular line level unbalanced audio, as they are directly connected to the backplane of the computer system. so there isn't much you need to do to make them work with the setup you had built up... but the virtuo amp is setup a little different.

[abispac]

Yeah, my juke its here, its missing one of the satellite speakers but I can easily build one myself. It has an amp inside, but no red or blue boxes. Ill gladly trade the io board for an Angelina braket and the di boxes. Thanks, ill trow in the Angelina io board I still have, the remote that came in, and do you think you'll have an use for the harness? if so ill send it to you to. Ill pm you for your info. Since I got 2 amps, it looks like I'm gonna need two Red DI boxes, am I right?

[abispac]

Update of the day, so i took out the io board, and the harness, the computer as well, computer is kinda crappy so I'm gonna replace it with a better one, at least a 6th gen PC so I can use an m2 drive. bot amps look good inside, like maybe no cap replacement would be needed. Mr Lilshawn, I forgot to measure the power on the monitor pinout, I don't wanna burning out, do you think you can help me with that, my guess is, 2 blacks are ground, yellow is 12v and white 24v?
PS: do you want this motherboard? I'm just planing to keep the whole case, with heat sink and replace it with a newer minit ITX.

[abispac]

So the front leds are nothing but regular rgb leds, good, the line in the middle looks complicated, but I'm not gonna sweet it, I'm gonna just install regular leds there.

[abispac]

So leds on the back should be easy to replace, again, connecting a cheap rgb box would controls all led lights. if Lilshawn helps me with the 2 red DI boxes, and installing a  gen 6th pc will be an easy mod.  Once I get everything ready, ill play with the bill acceptors, this time I'm not gonna use the duilt in harness as last time i did, it was a headache. i think I'm going to install a coin acceptor as well. Oh well , its gonna take some time, as at the moment i don't have money for the PC. Will post once i get some coin for that.

[lilshawn]

Yeah, my juke its here, its missing one of the satellite speakers but I can easily build one myself. It has an amp inside, but no red or blue boxes. Ill gladly trade the io board for an Angelina braket and the di boxes. Thanks, ill trow in the Angelina io board I still have, the remote that came in, and do you think you'll have an use for the harness? if so ill send it to you to. Ill pm you for your info. Since I got 2 amps, it looks like I'm gonna need two Red DI boxes, am I right?

okay, so the stand has it's own amp then? what kind is it? I have not seen one of those stands yet, so i'm not sure how they are set up.

anything you aren't going to use I'll gladly take. I keep a shelf of extra parts just in case, and having as much as you can makes it easy to just grab it and go fix one on location that is broken. The more parts that I don't have to wait to be shipped to us, the better.

you probably are only going to need 1 red DI box, as most of the amps have "in" and "out" ports on them, so you can just daisy chain them, one to the next to the next, and so on, by just plugging an ethernet cable from the "out" port of one device, to the "in" port of the next one... So you just need to convert the audio out on the computer to balanced with the red box, then go from there to an amp... and then daisy chain to the rest of the amps from there.

I'm not sure about the back LED's... i think they are setup as addressable cause they have a 3 pin connection that comes out of the backside of the IO board.. haven't looked too much into it... but a guy could just toss some LED strips in there. the back is kind of a pain to open up... you have to press in the big clear tabs all the way around the inside perimeter and remove 2 screws to pop the lenses off.

you are correct with the monitor power connections. black is ground, yellow is 12v and white is 24v. the 24v is used solely for the backlight inverter. FYI, the original OG power supply (before they changed it to the all-in-one power supply it has now) had a separate 24v power supply spec'd at 4.2 amps (6.3a with a fan)... but it did not have a fan and there where reports of some of them catching fire which is why they changed to an all-in-one power supply... so if you end up needing to use a different power supply, you'll probably wanting to find one capable of probably 5 amps or better.

[abispac]

You probably are only going to need 1 red DI box, as most of the amps have "in" and "out" ports on them, so you can just daisy chain them, one to the next to the next, and so on, by just plugging an ethernet cable from the "out" port of one device, to the "in" port of the next one... So you just need to convert the audio out on the computer to balanced with the red box, then go from there to an amp... and then daisy chain to the rest of the amps from there.

Thatshow they came in yes, the zone 3 cable was directly attached to the back amplifier.

Thanks for the info, i got the stuff ready to ship, I'm just waiting on your  info to send it out. I pm you a couple of times.

[abispac]

Small update today. So the reason i did not mailed the remote to you (Lilshawn) is because I realised it was for a led control unit, today i searched for it and i found it, which would make my life easier with the jukebox leds. At the stand , the bottoms leds were damaged, but the front ones, worked, I'm gonna use them directly with the 12v power source and left them in white mode. The controller i would use it for the jukebox leds.
I wanted to text the led matrix with my laptop to have an idea on how it looks, so i did the old trick to get the powerbrick at the juke working with the green and black cable together, and it worked. i did try the led matrix, but i cant just see how i can use it. Im not sure how touchtunes manages to get stuff displayed there. Ima research on youtube on how can i use this on windows 11. 

The bottom speaker its a cheap Eminence EMINATOR 12" inches, ill have to wait for the DI boxes to test the sound. Ill see if i can use a better one.

Im still looking for ways to gather money for a better PC hahaha> So updates are gonna be slow, plus i have to wait for Lilshawn to mail the red box.

[abispac]

the LED pixel array display on top is basically a HUB73 LED panel with a custom controller that accepts DVI/HDMI and acts as a very large, but low resolution monitor... there where 2 or 3 versions of this panel so you'll have to count out the pixels and create yourself a custom resolution for it...(it'll be like 24x120 ) then just feed it a DVI/HDMI signal and put whatever you want on there as if it is an extended display.

So I got the 80x17 pixels, I think it will end up displaying garbage, cus I cant find anything on how to display something useful at that resolution on windows, plus , the intel graphics wont let me create a customer resolution for 80x17 , I need to do more research on that.

[lilshawn]

https://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU

[abispac]

https://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU

I did saw this but is not working on my laptop, wich I am using to test stuff. So ima wait to see if it works with the final computer im gonna use for the juke.
Today I wired the power for the monitor and tested the USB touch and it works just fine, also monitor looks fine, no black spots.
I got the bottom part of the front door removed because I want ton install a coin mech, so I'm figuring out a way to do that that wont be looking to bad.
Anyway, check you Pm (LilShawn)

[abispac]

Led lights are working, to bad the control does not have a battery, also this looks a bit blue instead of white, but that's ok.

[abispac]

How in da hell can touchtunes display this can of stuff? I'ma post on the monitor forum to see if I can get help on how to achieve that.  https://www.youtube.com/shorts/XfM9iK9NWrg

[abispac]

I think its gonna be alot of trouble to have a useful top panel in windows, I guess I'm gonna use it as an RGB display like I did on the Angelina, I'm gonna print a translucent sticker and call it done. I really don't want to overthink this.

[abispac]

Bummer, the virtuo screen is not 1080p its 1366x768....

[abispac]

Lilshawn, your stuff is on the way, check pm for tracking number.

[lilshawn]

Bummer, the virtuo screen is not 1080p its 1366x768....

not really a fault with touchtunes... it's the panel manufacturers...

1024x768 was a "Standard Resolution" size for a VERY long time... when Widescreen started becoming standard, an easy hack to preserve the vertical resolution and just extend the horizontal resolution to get the 16:9 ratio "conforming" resolution of 1365.33333333..., which they've rounded up (because they don't like odd # pixel counts) to 1366.

dumb as hell, but what we ended up with.

so, as a result...of the total production of all 219 different panel models of the 26.0" size ever manufactured...

17 are 1920x1080,
1 is 2560x1440,

and the remaining 201 panels are 1366x768.

for comparison, 27" panels have currently 781 different models to choose from and roughly 11 are less than 1080p resolution. it's just a weird panel size released at a wierd transition time for panel manufacturers and chosen by tyco/elo to build the unit.

about halfway through the virtuo run, the supply of new 26" panels basically ran out... so they transitioned to 27" panel (which necessitated the redesign of the glass touch overlay.)

[abispac]

Bummer, the virtuo screen is not 1080p its 1366x768....

not really a fault with touchtunes... it's the panel manufacturers...

1024x768 was a "Standard Resolution" size for a VERY long time... when Widescreen started becoming standard, an easy hack to preserve the vertical resolution and just extend the horizontal resolution to get the 16:9 ratio "conforming" resolution of 1365.33333333..., which they've rounded up (because they don't like odd # pixel counts) to 1366.

dumb as hell, but what we ended up with.

so, as a result...of the total production of all 219 different panel models of the 26.0" size ever manufactured...

17 are 1920x1080,
1 is 2560x1440,

and the remaining 201 panels are 1366x768.

for comparison, 27" panels have currently 781 different models to choose from and roughly 11 are less than 1080p resolution. it's just a weird panel size released at a wierd transition time for panel manufacturers and chosen by tyco/elo to build the unit.

about halfway through the virtuo run, the supply of new 26" panels basically ran out... so they transitioned to 27" panel (which necessitated the redesign of the glass touch overlay.)

Man you really are a box of information hehehe Thanks for the info.

[lilshawn]

I've been fixing these kinds of things for years. sometimes you have to get creative.

just yesterday i bought a 2 used 26" LCD TV's off of one of those buy and sell used crap from around your area kind of sites (kinda like craigslist only less rapey) to repair a virtuo. What I do is look up the model numbers and find the user manuals.... in the back there is usually a section that tells you the native resolution of the panel. so i find a guy selling a couple for 25 bucks, look up the resolution and find it's 1366x768. so, tear them apart... modified the original driver board to drive the new panel (old panels use 12v LVDS and "new" panels use 5v... just a matter of swapping some jumpers.) ad bang boom, got a new monitor. still tuck with 1366x768 resolution though which is a bummer... i may look into replacement LVDS boards that i can configure for 1080 and see if i can score some 26" 1080 panels.

[abispac]

I live in a area where all of the USA scrap comes here, gets fixed and sold.  Ill be looking fo a same size panel with a better resolution, since the touch is on the glass itself, everything should be fine. Also as I'm probably gonna sell this thing, I might just ignore it and sell it like it is hahaha

[lilshawn]

an LVDS that is configurable to be used with a 1080p panel is one with model number MDV6822

it is used in the 27" panel versions of the virtuo monitor so it's confirmed working... and has both DVI and VGA inputs. it has jumpers to configure the output for the panel data (usually 8bits single channel) and also the panel voltage (3.3, 5, or 12 volts). if you buy one, i recommend off the hop, replacing the 3 capacitors on it. they are really low quality and end up causing glitches on the screen after a few months of running.

[abispac]

I used my own laptop to see how it would look, I bought a battery for the RGB control and I like the result, whenever I get some extra money ill buy a led strip to install it on the back.

[abispac]

So today i went shopping and found an hp pavilion 570, i5 7th gen with 16gb ram, 1tb harddrive and 128gb m2 SSD plu an and r5 4302gb ddr5 video card all for 100 dlls, not bad. Im installing windows right now, but the m2 drive is not compatible, so I need to find another one. Even thought it didn't fit the case It looks good.

[lilshawn]

nice! lots of room... you could just put a slab of plywood in there and then screw down your motherboard for an easy mounting solution.

looks like that m.2 is designed for a wifi card only, and not an ssd drive

[abispac]

nice! lots of room... you could just put a slab of plywood in there and then screw down your motherboard for an easy mounting solution.

looks like that m.2 is designed for a wifi card only, and not an ssd drive

Actualy i did used the bottom part of the original computer case and its bolted to the juke, ill see if i can take better pictures, no need for a plywood part, the bottom part of the computer case has a plasticcover that prevents the motherboard from touching any metal parts and its 100% secured.

[lilshawn]

oh, nice! I was going to suggest cutting out (or removing) the motherboard tray and mounting it in there, but thought it might be a bit much. everyone's a little different when it comes to "do it yourself" kinds of hacks. mounting a chunk of plywood is a super easy way of mounting stuff in metal cabinets. i've modified older NSM CD wallbox jukeboxes (firebirds, gemstars, etc) to touchscreen jukes and the whole inside is metal, makes for mounting stuff kinda hard... tossing a completed computer/power supply/control boards mounted to plywood and using a few existing holes can make it so i could get a juke done in a day... and if things go sideways (fried power supply or dead computer)... i can yank out the whole thing and toss in another and be back going in 20 minutes.

i would have no issue busting out the angle grinder and hacking stuff up (as i've done many times before) 

[abispac]

Well, im not the guy that takes pictures of everything as I get exited and get my hands to work all the time, but basically what I did was, with the original computer cased, I didn't send to you , cus I knew I was gonna use it to put the computer there, since the computer didn't fit , I used the bottom part, wich is basically a giant heat sink, the good part was, the compute case already had a good mount with the regular computer 4 screws for the heat sink , so all I did was, removed the 4 original screws that holds the heatsink the computer I bought, installed the motherboard in the 4 bolts from the touchtunes heatsin case  and it was a perfect fit, no need to drill extra holes or nothing, not sure if I'm making any sense. At the end to get rid of harddrives, I installed my laptop 1tb hardrive and Im gonna use the 128gb  for personal use, i was not using the 1tb anyway. So yeap, computer boots and does everything  faster. Anyway my pictures suck but here you can seem using the original part so its bolted nice and tight.

[lilshawn]

the hole fit perfect cause te boards they use in there are "ITX" standard which is a shaved down ATX. ATX standardized the location of the mounting holes and the slot positions and so on. so ITX, by extension, has the same hole layout as ATX.

also fortunately, Intel (mostly) standardized the holes for the CPU coolers... so the holes for those should all align properly too.

[abispac]

Piece of ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- computer did and i had to buy another one, so the other computer came with 8gb ram, plus the 16 I had I got now 24, so I got that going wich is fine hahaha, new computer its there I'm up and running, now I need to buy the software while I wait for Lilshawn  red di box to use the stand audio, so the next thing would be to build a similar satellite speaker, as the stand only came with one, so ill post updates on that as I get my hand working.

[abispac]

Just in case im gonna post it here, I had sent you the returnaddress. to Lawrence Ayoub

[abispac]

PLaying the waiting game, and looking around to buy some new side satellite speakers..... 

[lilshawn]

on the stands I was building, I would put "Bose 251" speakers with a custom made mount...they look slick mounted on the sides of the virtuo and sound pretty good paired with where I crossovered the subwoofer rolloff... but they run about 450 a pair... sooo might be a bit out of some price ranges.

Yamaha has some pretty decent indoor/outdoor speakers on amazon for under 200 bucks for a pair. Model "NS-AW294BL" we use them for outdoor patios at restaurants and bars. haven't had any complaints about those.

but honestly any speaker (with the appropriate filtering on the signal ) is going to sound great when paired with a capable subwoofer, since most speaker distortions comes from people trying to use tiny little speakers 4 and 5" speakers to make big woofer sounds... filter that stuff out from going to those speakers and bob's your auntie. 

[abispac]

on the stands I was building, I would put "Bose 251" speakers with a custom made mount...they look slick mounted on the sides of the virtuo and sound pretty good paired with where I crossovered the subwoofer rolloff... but they run about 450 a pair... sooo might be a bit out of some price ranges.

Yamaha has some pretty decent indoor/outdoor speakers on amazon for under 200 bucks for a pair. Model "NS-AW294BL" we use them for outdoor patios at restaurants and bars. haven't had any complaints about those.

But honestly any speaker (with the appropriate filtering on the signal ) is going to sound great when paired with a capable subwoofer, since most speaker distortions comes from people trying to use tiny little speakers 4 and 5" speakers to make big woofer sounds... filter that stuff out from going to those speakers and bob's your auntie. 

The speaker they using for the satellite speaker are 2 sony 8" the mid and the twitter, I can get something similar here for like 40 bucks, sounds ok I guess, the stand has a subwoofer on the floor, a 12 inch one,, and all that its being managed with one apm only, I get to use another amp onmore speakers, but since honestly I'm gonna sell this thing, ill probably wont spend to much money on it. Im still thinking I need money for a gamer computer, I want to get that done before I kick the bucket hahaha si ill probably trade it for a nice gaming computer or a nice m3 mac to see what the fuzz is about mac computers. But I need to finishit up first.

[lilshawn]

we had some cheapish 3-way "omage" brand speakers at one time that had an 8" woofer and they sounded pretty good. filled out a 6000 sq/ft bar with 4 of them. unfortunately they don't make them anymore.

gonna be installing a system in a bar on monday with an older touchtunes bose acoustimass AM-141P woofer. she's an old girl but she kicks like a mule.

I got one installed behind my computer desk. I don't dare turn it right up... it's got some bolas grandes! no idea where it's gonna go...but... it's going in there somewhere.

[abispac]

Im getting impatient with the mail hehehe so I'm tempted to hack this amps as well in order to hear the juke in all its might hahaha. Im not mad at you Lilshawn, is not your fault, the damn usps service some times does this, at the end if I receive the package, ill just put everything back together as it was. I imagine I could do the same as the Angelina amps, can you confirm please? i don't want to screw up hehehe. Thanks for your help.

[abispac]

Looked like the mail was waiting for me to complain hahahah today the package is out for delivery, yes, no need to hack the amps.

[lilshawn]

lol 

you have to threaten sometimes to get the universe to co-operate.

[abispac]

Thanks Lilshawn, it wasn't necessary to add that many boxes but they are very appreciated. I'm gonna get my hands on them on Sunday, so I still have to wait a few more days, perhaps next Monday evening. in the meantime ill prepare some old-school sonny speakers to enjoy, I'm also going to buy the software this weekend. So it might be ready to play next week. On this one, I'm not gonna bother with the bill acceptors unless the buyers want them because the Angelina ended up at a card club playing free music. So all of my trouble for nothing hahaha. Thanks again buddy, God bless you.

[abispac]

I made a Ghetto mod, ill post pics later.

[abispac]

Since i really dont want to spend to much money on this, I added the speakers that came with one of the satellite speakers directly to the stand. To be honest, this together with the base speaker at the bottom should be a small decent sound so people can hear it working. Since it has an extra amp, whoever buys the juke can always add more speakers. I also not gonna bother with the bill acceptors, as the Angelina will never use them, and I spend like 200 DLLs on those for nothing hahaha. Anyway, if the new buyer wants to use them then ill mess with them.  Right now I'm using spotify with Spicetify, man I really love it. I might not even buy the juke software.

[abispac]

Yeahhhhhhhhhh, today i got my hands on the boxes that you sent me Lilshawn, thanks a lot. I hook them up in the spot and the subwoofer sound good, not super loud but good, but the satellite speaker has low low sound. I made a mistake. When I disassembled the satellite speaker, I did not took pictures on how the wires were connected, So I did some research and this is the best I could come up with as the speaker has 2 capacitors one 1.2uf 100 v and 2.7uf 100 v.  But still sounds very low. Any advice would be welcome. Also do regular internet cables work with the amps, or do they have to be wired in a special way?
Thanks a lot for your help, nad thanks a lot for all the parts, you saved me a lot of time.
Edit: Found the correct way the caps and cables are connected, and it works, sounds nice, also, the equalizer makes a huge difference, thanks a lot for that extra Mr LilShawn.

https://youtube.com/shorts/gWjIqgNQbbE

[abispac]

This morning something weird happened, i turned on the juke and had no sound. I was checking and everything seemed to work, so I decided to do the old trick, test one item at a time. So I tested the equalizer first, and that was the problem, the second equalizer worked just fine,I opened the damaged equalizer and there was no burning smell or anything, it turned on but gave no output. Is there something I should know to avoid burning the second equalizer and hopefully fix the first one? Thanks for the help.

[lilshawn]

not sure. i have had very few issues with any of the DI boxes... and if I do it's usually one of the power supplies. (+11v -11v rails)

there are some test points on the board in the middle of the main board. make sure you have voltages. if one is missing, that's the issue.

TP1 -11v - if missing replace U10
TP2 +12v - if missing check power connection at position C6 if missing, check R30 for open (zero ohm resistor, can be swapped for jumper)
TP3 +11 - if missing Replace U9
TP4  GND

[abispac]

not sure. i have had very few issues with any of the DI boxes... and if I do it's usually one of the power supplies. (+11v -11v rails)

there are some test points on the board in the middle of the main board. make sure you have voltages. if one is missing, that's the issue.

TP1 -11v - if missing replace U10
TP2 +12v - if missing check power connection at position C6 if missing, check R30 for open (zero ohm resistor, can be swapped for jumper)
TP3 +11 - if missing Replace U9
TP4  GND

Thanks ill take a look and change the power source just in case.

[abispac]

not sure. i have had very few issues with any of the DI boxes... and if I do it's usually one of the power supplies. (+11v -11v rails)

there are some test points on the board in the middle of the main board. make sure you have voltages. if one is missing, that's the issue.

TP1 -11v - if missing replace U10
TP2 +12v - if missing check power connection at position C6 if missing, check R30 for open (zero ohm resistor, can be swapped for jumper)
TP3 +11 - if missing Replace U9
TP4  GND

Im a bit sad, because I know you sent me this equalizer as an extra and they did sound great, but I ---fudgesicle--- the 2 of them already, not sure what I did, they both worked great for a few hours and nothing after I rebooted the PC. the inside looked ok nothing looks burned , and no burnt smell. Im not sure what I did, I want to fix them because the juke does sound better with them. I don't see tp1 or tp2,3,4 did you got confused and think  ---fouled up beyond all recognition--- the red di box? cus those are working nice, its the equalizer boards that got damaged.

[lilshawn]

right here 

i'm not sure why they'd just stop working.

They do have a "direction", an input and output.

[computer] ----- [RED DI BOX] ----- [EQ IN - EQ OUT]----- [AMP]

I don't know if plugging them in backwards would do anything other than make it not output audio.

if all the voltages are good, there may be an issue with one of the OP-amp chips. (TL074C) not sure why that would be though. like i said... don't really encounter issues with these, as they are a pretty passive device and on the audio network they are designed for.

maybe be sure your network cables are "straight through" wired. (i'm a T-568B man myself) IE: make sure both ends are wired the same standard and not crossed over. you also need to have all 8 of the wires used. (Xbox'es used to come with cheap cables with only 4 wires (the bare minimum to connect) the boxes requires 3 left signals, 3 right signals and 2 power wires. (8 total)

[abispac]

Tp3 is faling the thing is, what is it? hahaha,sorry I hate to be a pain in the ass, I regularly don't have problems finding most small components but this one does not come out with either 617-1054 or 617/1054. Can you please let me know what it is to see if I can find it locally  please. Thanks for your patience.

[lilshawn]

Linear Technology LT1054

this is already a pretty universal part number (kinda like the LM7805) you should be able to find it from quite a number of companies (such as the Analog Devices one you linked as well as Texas instruments, etc.)

the "617" is just a production/date code

[abispac]

Is it common for this monitors to turn off randomly? I cant find the cause, I suspect the power source, but I'm not really sure. The monitor turns off randomly but powering on and off will turn the monitor on again...

[lilshawn]

usually if the monitor is blanking out, and power cycling it "fixes" it for a bit, it's the backlight inverter. usually you can just change the capacitors on the board and it will behave itself.

I think the board you have there will have a pair of 390uf 35volt caps on it. it's a weird value... so you can swap them for 330uf caps without much issue or 470uf, but the space is a little tight... so you may have to trim a bit of the metal cover protector if you go with the bigger value (often caps are larger physically in size) 330uf is better than a dead 390uf that probably has 10uf left and is more of a resistor than a capacitor.

sometimes you can power them off and back on and they will stay on, so the temptation is just to keep it running like this, but you end up blowing out the switching fet's Q8,9,10,11 (STU411D) and you'll need to replace all 4 of them, as well as the caps and power fuse F1 for good measure (5 amps) since they will go short circuit and pop the fuse.

[abispac]

I think i found the fault, i am using the power source from the touchtunes to power the monitor and the less, I had some led cables stripped down but did not added any insulation as apparently no cables were exposed, anyway, I think the 12v had a very tiny cable exposed, so with the boom boom vibrations was touching a metal part of the juke, causing it to short for a second, enough to cause the monitor to turn off, I did added some electricians tape, and the issue seems to be gone, will keep testing, thanks Lilshawn ill keep an eye on those caps.

[abispac]

This case is closed now as the juke its currently for sale at a local location, I didn't bother with the bill acceptors as the last juke I sold, they are not using them hehehehe. I want to thank Lilshawnfor all the patience and help. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. So the juke ended up using the rocker touch lite software that uses YouTube for online music playing. and also I installed spotify with spicetify. The monitor seems t be working nice, no more blackouts. Ive always wanted to get a virtuo juke for myself but right now I don't have the space, so hopefully ill find another cheap deal like this one on the future. Im also keeping one amp, as they really work nice. Anyway, thanks for reading and if anyone else has any questions, ill be more ethan glad to help.

[lilshawn]

hey, that's awesome. glad you got to play around a bit with it before moving it onto its new home!

i tried googling around for the software you mentioned, the "rocker touch lite" software, but was not able to find it. can you post a link to where i can see it or download it to try it out. I'm always on the hunt for good software!

FYI, the bare guts amp boards in the virtuo/angelina (icepower 125ASX2) can be had for about 190CAD and touchtunes sometimes sells refurb amps for 104CAD

[abispac]

https://rockbeshop.com/esp/items/98/touch You can buy the software on this link, the downside its in Spanish only, I did asked the developer to see if he could make it in English but he refused. Mythought is ,since in latin countries they don't really persecute this kind of stuff, but USA/Can do, so he wants to stay out of trouble. But if you don't mind playing around with it in Spanish, its cheap, around 35dlls.

hey, that's awesome. glad you got to play around a bit with it before moving it onto its new home!

i tried googling around for the software you mentioned, the "rocker touch lite" software, but was not able to find it. can you post a link to where i can see it or download it to try it out. I'm always on the hunt for good software!

FYI, the bare guts amp boards in the virtuo/angelina (icepower 125ASX2) can be had for about 190CAD and touchtunes sometimes sells refurb amps for 104CAD