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Need more buttons on Ace Driver Cabinet. Ideas?

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graeflicher:
I am in the process of converting an old Ace Driver: Victory Lap cabinet into a mame-machine. While I like the cabinet and controlboard, only having one button makes most games unplayable without the added keyboard on top of the controlboard. I would like to add more buttons without losing the aracade look and feel. To make things more complicated, the controlboard must remain in its original state. So no drilling some extra holes.

I think the cabinet is missing some kind of plate to cover the blue metal part. There is a 5mm gap where the controlboard is overlapping the edge. So i was thinking why not have some kind of cover and run the wires under it. Still it would be nice not to drill holes in the metal part. Are there arcade-like buttons that can be mounted flat in 5mm acryl? Maybe any other ideas? I will probably rework the coin return buttons to coin/start buttons but most games need many more. What about a heavy-duty keypad?

Please share your ideas.

baritonomarchetto:
Drilling the control panel is not an option, nor is using a full keyboard. You have enought space there for a custom made button box or a stream deck

PL1:

--- Quote from: graeflicher on February 05, 2024, 05:19:03 pm ---I would like to add more buttons without losing the aracade look and feel.

--- End quote ---
OK.

How many buttons and what functions do they perform?
- Check every game you intend to play.

Do you need to use them during gameplay?  This can influence size/spacing/color/mounting/reinforcement choices.

Do you need LED buttons with vinyl stickers/printed inserts so they will be easier to read because of the lighting around the button box location?

We can't give you the best advice unless you tell us exactly what you want/need and how you intend to use them.

The "6P" principle applies here -- Proper Prior Planning Prevents Poor Performance.   ;)


--- Quote from: graeflicher on February 05, 2024, 05:19:03 pm ---There is a 5mm gap where the controlboard is overlapping the edge. So i was thinking why not have some kind of cover and run the wires under it.

--- End quote ---
Sounds like a good choice might be a 3d printed button box with a 5mm lip that goes into the gap and hooks under the metal panel so it doesn't lift up.
- Given that the gap is 5mm wide, you should have no problem feeding the wires through to the encoder inside the main control panel.
- When printing the part, turn it so the right or left side of the box is down on the print bed.  This will give you the best strength for the lip.  Printing it face-down is the second best option.  DO NOT print it top-down since that would give it the weakest lip.
- Design the box with a removable back panel for easy maintenance.  Heat-set threaded inserts would be perfect for this application, but a snap-in back would work, too.


--- Quote from: graeflicher on February 05, 2024, 05:19:03 pm ---Are there arcade-like buttons that can be mounted flat in 5mm acryl? Maybe any other ideas?

--- End quote ---
Lots of options for this.  Best choice depends on the details mentioned above.


--- Quote from: graeflicher on February 05, 2024, 05:19:03 pm ---I will probably rework the coin return buttons to coin/start buttons

--- End quote ---
Adding coin switches to the coin return buttons makes sense, but it seems like start buttons should go on the button box.   :dunno


Scott

Fursphere:

--- Quote from: baritonomarchetto on February 06, 2024, 01:55:03 am ---Drilling the control panel is not an option, nor is using a full keyboard. You have enought space there for a custom made button box or a stream deck

--- End quote ---

I have Stream Decks on my Daytona Twin, and some emulators (Teknoparrot) often don't respond to them.  Something quirky with it. 

Fursphere:
If you want 'coin buttons' and you have a 3D printer, I designed these adapters to work with a 25c coin 'button' and it fits in a Wells Gardner coin door.  I can get you the files if you want them.

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