Main > Driving & Racing Cabinets
Daytona USA 2 empty cabinet HELP
thiagomax:
Hey folks,
I'm a Brazilian novice in terms of restoring racing cabinets, but I've already restored a lot of pinball machines, I have a project in hand, an empty cabinet from a Daytona 2 Single,
I will tell you what exactly I have here
* cabinet with complete structure in good shape
*complete wire harness
* steering wheel with force feedback motor
*shifter
*pedals
*empty board cage
*wells gardner 27 monitor
In short, I have basically everything except any card.
At first I was looking for the original boards to put this beauty to work, but I got discouraged when I saw the prices to complete the entire kit and also because these boards weren't so reliable, I even thought about buying a donor one but the donor had the motherboards with issues and would spend money for nothing.
So I started researching a lot in the last few days on how to convert all of this to work with an emulator on a PC. This is where things get complicated. I've seen a lot of old and new things about converting cabinets using a PC and some boards, and I believe there may be a lot of things that are already obsolete, and I've read about several boards being used for this conversion, I'd like to know if any good soul could do it. help me on this adventure.
My Goal >>>
have a cabin that looks original, with the same original steering wheel, same pedals, same CRT monitor, working dashboard lamps and of course original force feedback.
If any of you could put together the best set up in 2024, what would it be?
What do I need to achieve my goal, which emulator? What PC setup? Which boards are manufactured by third parties? Excuse my ignorance, but for someone who fell into this without any experience, there are several videos and posts, but few indicate anything about a complete construction of the system, or showing what is really needed to get everything working with practically zero boards.
I really appreciate anyone who can help me
Fursphere:
If you haven't read this, start here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,105961.0.html
And I really can't tell you what the "best" setup would be, but I can show you what I did in 2023: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,167512.0.html
You should be able to get started with a basic PC (Windows 7 capable at an absolute minimum I'd say, but preferably something newer), Monitor, and a lower end Logitech racing wheel setup. But there are many platforms, so you kind of need to figure out what games are important to you first. (Model 2? Model 3? newer TeknoParrot based stuff? Windows / Steam games? Old school MAME supported games? Console platforms? The first link will help a little here)
thiagomax:
I saw your post yesterday, but I wouldn't want to use a Logitech, I would like to keep the steering wheel with the original forcefeedback, as far as I saw this would be possible using a card that I wasn't careful to remember the name of now, I would like to have the games from model2 and 3 would this be possible, correct? By the way, congratulations on your project, it was beautiful.
Fursphere:
Thanks! :)
The original Model 2 system used a rather large stepper motor (servo?), and used potentiometer for steering and throttle / brake. You can use an Ultimarc A-Pac to get those working. For the force feedback, I really have no idea. I could find zero technical information on those stepper motors (I had two). This is why I just used Fanatec CSL DD motors... You'd need a driver circuit a large power supply to get the motor working, then some kind of circuit to translate game signals (force feedback signals) to stepper/servo commands. I know the theory on how you'd go about it, but I don't have the technical skills to build it. And you'd have to figure out the wiring on the motor and rotary encoder...
The VR buttons can be wired to the A-Pac as well. Getting the lights to work with the games takes a bit more effort and a separate light controller and probably replacing the bulbs with LEDs. MAMEHooker is the program that can help there, or TroubleShooter2 (I think) for Model 2 emulator.
The shifter...... this is where it gets complicated again. I think I saw someone use an arduino to wire up the shifter and a simple sketch program to translate the shifting into keyboard presses. You'll have to search for that one, been a long time since I saw that. (another reason I used a fanatec shifter...). The daytona shifter doesn't have a single switch-per-gear. It uses a combination of open/closed to tell the original game what gear it was in. Three switches I believe., in various states of open/closed depending on where the stick is. Its actually pretty creative how it works.
PL1:
--- Quote from: Fursphere on December 31, 2023, 04:40:15 pm ---The shifter...... this is where it gets complicated again. I think I saw someone use an arduino to wire up the shifter and a simple sketch program to translate the shifting into keyboard presses. You'll have to search for that one, been a long time since I saw that. (another reason I used a fanatec shifter...). The daytona shifter doesn't have a single switch-per-gear. It uses a combination of open/closed to tell the original game what gear it was in. Three switches I believe., in various states of open/closed depending on where the stick is. Its actually pretty creative how it works.
--- End quote ---
I don't remember seeing an Arduino solution, but here are several approaches to consider.
- You may want to use an encoder that outputs gamepad buttons instead of keystrokes so the system doesn't have problems booting up since the shifter output will look like like a stuck key.
- You'll probably want a hidden switch for neutral (no ground to any encoder inputs) in case you need to map controls and an LED indicator so you can see when the shifter is in this state.
--- Quote from: PL1 on June 08, 2022, 03:03:54 pm ---Fancy way:
Baritonomarchetto designed a PCB for the 74__138 IC and posted the Gerber files in reply #13 of his shifter thread.
- Lots of good info and discussion in that thread. ;D
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,164398.0.html
Simple way:
Another option is to use a modified version of the wiring-only diagram from earlier in this thread.
--- Quote from: PL1 on January 24, 2021, 06:58:29 pm ---If you want to add a "Neutral" switch and LED indicator to the wiring-only diagram, insert an SPDT switch between ground and switch 3 "IN". (COM)
- SPDT COM to ground.
- SPDT NC to switch 3 "IN".
- SPDT NO to LED, current limiting resistor, and 5v.
--- End quote ---
--- End quote ---
Scott
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