Arcade Collecting > Pinball

Careful what you wish for- I finally got to join the club

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LTC:
Congrats on making this pin playable. Sure looked like a basket case when you picked it up, although I had no doubt having seen some of your other projects.

On a side note, I had no idea this pin existed, and will be adding it to my virtual pin cab ASAP.

pbj:
That’s awesome you got it working.  Playfield looks good to me in your potato pic.  I’m not a fan of overlays unless the playfield is bare wood.

Drop target can probably be repaired with jb weld and a piece of metal on the back.  Then relocate it to a position it gets hit fewer times.  I’ve repaired dozens like that over the years.  If you replace it, keep the broken one as the repro may be total junk and you’ll be wishing you had jb welded the old one.

 :lol

When’s the translite arrive?  A missing backglass is an albatross.

bobbyb13:
It IS awesome.
And surprising.

I have given up on trying to get this file to save and post properly since I forgot and took the stupid picture portrait.

(in an angelic manner-)
Ahhhhh......
The Simpsons....



I'm with you on the playfield thing.
There is a mylar skin covering most of it actually, and apart from a few spots where you can tell the ball was bouncing off something and the paint is worn off where there is no mylar it is really not bad at all.
Most of the inserts for the bulbs are raised above the board itself enough that I can see it but it is hard to see it affecting the ball travel.

I have a stack of replacement drop targets but I will save the originals because I can see what you are talking about as a real possibility.
The three bowling pin ones (the set directly above the flippers which take the most abuse) are actually sagging/bent a little.  I can see they get hung up on the playfield sometimes when the coil is trying to reset them so I will try replacing those and see what happens.
They are missing their bowling pin stickers anyway so deserve a little attention.

It will be fun to get this thing dialed in.
I already sorted out where one vertical kickout was having trouble lifting the ball into the return/roll cage because it wasn't aligned properly so I can see that there are certain parts of these machines that need to be finessed a bit to get them to work as designed.
Funny also to see where random little posts have been added to try to prevent a ball from getting stuck in weird spots.

Cool stuff.
Another rabbit-hole.

pbj:
The inserts that aren't covered by mylar - push them up from underneath, clean the edges, touch up the black outline on the playfield with a paint marker, put some woodglue on them, and glue them back in level.  It's a ton of back irritating work but it's worth it.  This is so damn cheap, but to push them up, I find a socket that's slightly narrower diameter, stuff a wad of papertowel in it, cover with masking tape (trying to get a level surface), put an extension in it, hold the playfield upright with one hand, and push slow but firm with the other.  I've had exactly one insert crack on me and I've done hundreds like this.

The ones under the mylar you may be able to use a wood block or something to push them down flat.  Maybe heat underneath with a hair dryer for a bit.

Mylar is probably best left alone.  If the paint is cracked underneath you will lift it right off when you remove the mylar.  People like doing the "freeze spray" method.  I just leave mylar alone unless it's curling and messing with the ball.

Anyway, awesome work on this.  I similarly brought a Firepower back from the dead and that beater is still in my gameroom.

 :cheers:

bobbyb13:
I figured that touching the mylar meant destroying the playfield (or at least the art) so a bad idea.
It would be cool to do a little insert work though so I need to have another look at the playfield with levelling off the inserts in mind.
Certainly sounds like worth doing to me.
Thanks for the tips pbj.

At some point I may take a shot at "repainting" in the art that is worn off outside the mylar too.
I've used Posca paint pens on surfboard foam pretty successfully so I imagine it would work for this too.
That and a bit of clear coat may do the trick and seal the wood back up too.

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