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Author Topic: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder  (Read 32557 times)

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Zebidee

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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #80 on: June 05, 2024, 04:04:57 pm »
That's very impressive work Naponic! Can you share the file when complete?

How do you go with getting the VGA/USB/3xRCA ports into those holes? I imagine it's a tight fit. Does the plastic have a bit of flexibility to make that easier?

FYI, the GreenAntz PCBs are the same size across different versions, and the ports and mounting holes are all in the same places.

The PCB design/layout accommodates at least 1.5mm clearance along the short sides, meaning a box design could be a shaped hollow tube with C-shaped slide guides on left/right sides. The PCB just slides in, like a drawer. I imagine this would be easy to design and print. Then just add flat faceplates (with holes for ports & screws) front and back. The new sync LED intrudes upon that clearance slightly, but still leaves > 1mm free.

Ond & Daniel seem to be working on something too. I don't know how far that's gone? I imagine Ond is pretty busy with his virtual pinball project & other stuff.

I have no 3D printing skills! Sure I'd love it though, as obviously I enjoy creative modelling/design stuff.
Check out my completed projects!


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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #81 on: June 05, 2024, 06:01:58 pm »

Ond & Daniel seem to be working on something too. I don't know how far that's gone? I imagine Ond is pretty busy with his virtual pinball project & other stuff.


I considered drawing up an enclosure but as Naponic is now working on it I'll let it be for now. Personally I have no real need for one myself as I'm just mounting them inside the cabinet on standoffs.

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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #82 on: June 05, 2024, 06:16:47 pm »

How do you go with getting the VGA/USB/3xRCA ports into those holes? I imagine it's a tight fit. Does the plastic have a bit of flexibility to make that easier?
You don't.

For a top and bottom cover design, the seam between the top and bottom should probably pass through the center of the RCA jacks.

The VGA port hole has flat sides so no problem there.

The USB connector should be shallow enough to slide inside the case or have the seam between the covers dip down at that connector with a little additional reinforcement on the top cover for the part that sticks down.

Another feature to consider adding is wire holes for the alternate power supply terminals mentioned here.



The PCB design/layout accommodates at least 1.5mm clearance along the short sides, meaning a box design could be a shaped hollow tube with C-shaped slide guides on left/right sides. The PCB just slides in, like a drawer. I imagine this would be easy to design and print. Then just add flat faceplates (with holes for ports & screws) front and back. The new sync LED intrudes upon that clearance slightly, but still leaves > 1mm free.
That's one possible approach, but the hard part about it is the hardware for attaching the covers.

Here's a preliminary design I did a while back for the KADE MiniConsole+ that could be easily adapted for GreenAntz.
- The hole in the "diving board" tab lines up with the mounting hole on the other cover.

OpenSCAD code if anyone wants to play around with it.
Code: [Select]
// KADE miniConsole+ case (WIP)

// Variables are estimates -- awaiting accurate measurements.  Port openings have extra wiggle room.

/////////////////////////////
// Define variables
/////////////////////////////
screwdiameter = 4;    // Screw hole diameter
PCBwidth = 60;        // PCB width
PCBlength = 80;       // PCB length
PCBthick = 1.8;       // PCB thickness
componentheight = 22; // Component height
USBoffset = 10;       // Distance from PCB edge to USB
RJ45offset = 8;       // Distance from PCB edge to RJ45
DSUBoffset = 9;       // Distance from PCB edge to left side of D-Sub15
SecHalfMove = 60;     // Y-axis distance to move the second half of the case

// Number of fragments (polygon sides) used to render a full circle.
    $fn = 180; // Default = 180  Typical range = 6 - 360
    // 6 will render a circular hole as a hexagon, 8 will render a circular hole as an octagon.
    // Lower the number for faster rendering, raise the number for smoother rendering.

/////////////////////////////
//  Make the part
/////////////////////////////

/////////////////////////////
// RJ-45 and USB side of case
/////////////////////////////
difference(){ // Case body minus hollow, PCB slot, RJ-45 and USB holes
    // Case body
    hull() {
    translate([PCBwidth+14, 8+PCBthick+componentheight, 1+PCBlength/4])
    cylinder(h=2+PCBlength/2, d=4, center=true);
    // Upper right cylinder

    translate([14, 8+PCBthick+componentheight, 1+PCBlength/4])
    cylinder(h=2+PCBlength/2, d=4, center=true);
    // Upper left cylinder

    translate([PCBwidth+14, 2, 1+PCBlength/4])
    cube([4,4,2+PCBlength/2], center=true);
    // Lower right cube

    translate([14, 2, 1+PCBlength/4])
    cube([4,4,2+PCBlength/2], center=true);
    // Lower left cube

    } // End case body
//
// Holes to remove from case
    // Upper hollow
    color("green") translate([14+PCBwidth/2, 6+(PCBthick+componentheight)/2, 5+PCBlength/4])
    cube([PCBwidth-6,PCBthick+componentheight,5+PCBlength/2], center=true);

    // Lower hollow
    color("green") translate([14+PCBwidth/2, 4, 5+PCBlength/4])
    cube([PCBwidth-6,3,5+PCBlength/2], center=true);

    // PCB slot
    color("white") translate([14+PCBwidth/2, 4+PCBthick, 5+PCBlength/4])
    cube([PCBwidth+0.2,PCBthick,5+PCBlength/2], center=true);

    // USB hole
    color("blue") translate([7+PCBwidth-USBoffset, 9.7+(PCBthick*1.5), 5])
    cube([14,12,12], center=true);

    // RJ45 hole
    color("brown") translate([22+RJ45offset, 11.7+(PCBthick*1.5), 5])
    cube([16,16,12], center=true);

     } // End case body minus hollow, PCB slot, RJ-45 and USB holes
//
difference(){ // Left mount tab minus screw hole
    // Left mount tab
    translate([6, 1.5, 1+PCBlength/4])
    cube([12, 3, 2+PCBlength/2], center=true);

    // Screw hole
    translate([6, 2.5, (2+PCBlength/2)-(PCBlength/2-8)])
    rotate([90, 0, 0])
    cylinder(h=10, d=screwdiameter, center=true);

} // End left mount tab minus screw hole
//
difference(){ // Right lower mount tab minus screw hole
    // Right lower mount tab
    translate([22+PCBwidth, 1.5, 1+PCBlength/4])
    cube([12, 3, 2+PCBlength/2], center=true);

    // Screw hole
    translate([22+PCBwidth, 2.5, (2+PCBlength/2)-(PCBlength/2-8)])
    rotate([90, 0, 0])
    cylinder(h=10, d=screwdiameter, center=true);

} // End right lower mount tab minus screw hole
//
difference(){ // Right upper mount tab minus screw holes
    // Right upper mount tab
    translate([22+PCBwidth, 4.5, 2+PCBlength/2])
    cube([12, 3, 4+PCBlength], center=true);

    // Screw hole 1
    translate([22+PCBwidth, 2.5, (2+PCBlength/2)-(PCBlength/2-8)])
    rotate([90, 0, 0])
    cylinder(h=10, d=screwdiameter, center=true);

    // Screw hole 2
    translate([22+PCBwidth, 2.5, (2+PCBlength/2)+(PCBlength/2-8)])
    rotate([90, 0, 0])
    cylinder(h=10, d=screwdiameter, center=true);

} // End right lower mount tab minus screw holes
//
/////////////////////////////
// DSub15 side of case
/////////////////////////////
difference(){ // Case body minus hollow, PCB slot, and DSub15 hole
    // Case body
    hull() {
    translate([PCBwidth+14, 8+PCBthick+componentheight+SecHalfMove, 1+PCBlength/4])
    cylinder(h=2+PCBlength/2, d=4, center=true);
    // Upper right cylinder

    translate([14, 8+PCBthick+componentheight+SecHalfMove, 1+PCBlength/4])
    cylinder(h=2+PCBlength/2, d=4, center=true);
    // Upper left cylinder

    translate([PCBwidth+14, 2+SecHalfMove, 1+PCBlength/4])
    cube([4,4,2+PCBlength/2], center=true);
    // Lower right cube

    translate([14, 2+SecHalfMove, 1+PCBlength/4])
    cube([4,4,2+PCBlength/2], center=true);
    // Lower left cube

    } // End case body
//
// Holes to remove from case
    // Upper hollow
    color("green") translate([14+PCBwidth/2, 6+(PCBthick+componentheight)/2+SecHalfMove, 5+PCBlength/4])
    cube([PCBwidth-6,PCBthick+componentheight,5+PCBlength/2], center=true);

    // Lower hollow
    color("green") translate([14+PCBwidth/2, 4+SecHalfMove, 5+PCBlength/4])
    cube([PCBwidth-6,3,5+PCBlength/2], center=true);

    // PCB slot
    color("white") translate([14+PCBwidth/2, 4+PCBthick+SecHalfMove, 5+PCBlength/4])
    cube([PCBwidth+0.2,PCBthick,5+PCBlength/2], center=true);

    // DSub15 hole
    color("blue") translate([-6+PCBwidth-DSUBoffset, 10.7+(PCBthick*1.5)+SecHalfMove, 5])
    cube([40,14,12], center=true);

     } // End case body minus hollow, PCB slot, and DSub15 hole
//
difference(){ // Left mount tab minus screw hole
    // Left mount tab
    translate([6, 1.5+SecHalfMove, 1+PCBlength/4])
    cube([12, 3, 2+PCBlength/2], center=true);

    // Screw hole
    translate([6, 2.5+SecHalfMove, (2+PCBlength/2)-(PCBlength/2-8)])
    rotate([90, 0, 0])
    cylinder(h=10, d=screwdiameter, center=true);

} // End left mount tab minus screw hole
//
difference(){ // Right lower mount tab minus screw hole
    // Right lower mount tab
    translate([22+PCBwidth, 1.5+SecHalfMove, 1+PCBlength/4])
    cube([12, 3, 2+PCBlength/2], center=true);

    // Screw hole
    translate([22+PCBwidth, 2.5+SecHalfMove, (2+PCBlength/2)-(PCBlength/2-8)])
    rotate([90, 0, 0])
    cylinder(h=10, d=screwdiameter, center=true);

} // End right lower mount tab minus screw hole
//
difference(){ // Right upper mount tab minus screw holes
    // Right upper mount tab
    translate([22+PCBwidth, 4.5+SecHalfMove, 2+PCBlength/2])
    cube([12, 3, 4+PCBlength], center=true);

    // Screw hole 1
    translate([22+PCBwidth, 2.5+SecHalfMove, (2+PCBlength/2)-(PCBlength/2-8)])
    rotate([90, 0, 0])
    cylinder(h=10, d=screwdiameter, center=true);

    // Screw hole 2
    translate([22+PCBwidth, 2.5+SecHalfMove, (2+PCBlength/2)+(PCBlength/2-8)])
    rotate([90, 0, 0])
    cylinder(h=10, d=screwdiameter, center=true);

} // End right upper mount tab minus screw holes
//


Scott

Naponic

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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #83 on: June 05, 2024, 07:07:00 pm »
Made the case see-through so I can see what I'm doing... doesn't look bad lol.

Made the holes in the middle so there's no wedging of anything. Drop, screw, and go. Still mostly visual guesswork and tape measuring clearances, I need digital calipers. Downloading random circuit parts from GrabCAB and double checking IRL has saved a lot of time.


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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #84 on: June 05, 2024, 08:14:58 pm »
Looks great, Naponic.   :cheers:

Two other features you might want to add are a hole for the optional alternate power wires mentioned here and two holes so you can see the LEDs.



I need digital calipers.
Yep.  Digital or dial.  Both are great choices.
Vernier calipers suck.  :puke


Scott
EDIT: Forgot to mention that another case variant to consider is for the SCART version with audio jacks mentioned here.
« Last Edit: June 05, 2024, 08:42:53 pm by PL1 »

Zebidee

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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #85 on: June 05, 2024, 11:10:43 pm »
EDIT: Forgot to mention that another case variant to consider is for the SCART version with audio jacks mentioned here.



Thanks so much for the suggestions Scott. Yes, SCART... and console users are more likely to want SCART, therefore more likely to want a box (as it will likely be going near a TV in a games room, not inside a cab).

BYOACers almost all want VGA versions, I haven't even built any V1.94 units in SCART form yet. I haven't promoted the latest versions past BYOAC. But once I include the everyone else (y'know, non-members), overall maybe 20-25% of people want SCART, so important to include them.

FYI, the installed SCART jack measures 16mm high x 47mm wide (top); 44.5mm wide (bottom). Those width measurements are taken from the outsides of the curved corners. The white lines marked on PCB show the correct footprint and precisely line up with where the SCART jack goes.

The extra audio passthrough RCA jacks (red & white) are the same height and same diameter as the YPbPr jacks (you can hold a ruler up and it goes through the middle of all five jacks). They are all spaced apart by approximately the same amount too (~14mm). The only difference is the audio jacks don't stick out quite as far, are about 2mm shorter than the YPbPr jacks. Again, the white lines marked on the PCB footprint show the correct placement.

Those measurements are taken with a metal ruler & eyeballs, not calipers of any kind, but I took them many times.

Holes for LEDs might not work, as much of the light would be dispersed before even reaching the holes. Extending the LED legs is not a very practical option. One way to do it would be with optic fibre tubing, which would capture the light and direct it (mostly) toward the hole. Sounds fussy and expensive, but maybe not, I really don't know.

EDIT: a little online searching reveals fibre optic tubes are actually not very expensive. Even so, I'm not sure how well they'd work, some testing would be required. The GreenAntz 3mm "bright" LEDs run much dimmer than their actual ratings, drawing less than 1mA each - they only need to be bright enough to see, not to see by, and not bright enough to make you squint or distract from gaming. Generally speaking, green power LED uses a 50K current limiting resistor, and the blue sync LED uses a 10K resistor (these values are only indicative - actual colours and resistor values may vary).

Transparent case may just be easier.

Thanks again naponic, looking very good.
Check out my completed projects!


variaprime

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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #86 on: June 06, 2024, 01:43:01 am »
Thank you for all the hard work and updates you've put into this project! Also loving the enclosures I'm seeing above. Sent a PM on purchasing a unit if there are still any spots available. Cheers  :cheers:

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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #87 on: June 06, 2024, 02:57:20 am »
FYI, the installed SCART jack measures 16mm high x 47mm wide (top); 44.5mm wide (bottom). Those width measurements are taken from the outsides of the curved corners. The white lines marked on PCB show the correct footprint and precisely line up with where the SCART jack goes.
If the datasheet for the connector doesn't show the radius of the curved corner, the tool you need to measure the curve is called a fillet gauge.
- There are lots of 3d printable models of them on Thingiverse or you can make custom ones like I did here.



Holes for LEDs might not work, as much of the light would be dispersed before even reaching the holes. Extending the LED legs is not a very practical option. One way to do it would be with optic fibre tubing, which would capture the light and direct it (mostly) toward the hole. Sounds fussy and expensive, but maybe not, I really don't know.
"Transparent" 3d print filament is usually just somewhat translucent so dim LEDs might be hard to see unless the case is so thin that it it will be too weak.
- My 3d printer came with a sample of translucent PLA.  Printed some parts for PBJ with it.  They turned out OK for his setup, but it was far from transparent.

If I was modding a case like Naponic's for LED holes, I'd put in 45 degree funnel-like holes (6mm i.d. hole at the bottom) that stopped just a bit above the 3mm LEDs.
- This gives you fairly good viewing angles, almost all printers should be handle a 45 degree overhang, and you don't have to worry about special filaments or light pipes.
- Bonus points for the holes looking like the entrance to an ant hill.   :lol

Transparent case may just be easier.
Many people won't want to buy a 1000g roll of specialized filament just to print a single 100g(?) case.

Probably better to design a case that works with any type of filament.   ;D


Scott

Zebidee

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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #88 on: June 06, 2024, 06:27:52 am »
All good point Scott. I really don't know 3D printing, and I'm sure what you say about transparent stuff is true. Not sure I'd like funnel-holes for the LEDs though. Am worried that they would have to be pretty long funnels, around 1cm or longer, to get down to the LEDs. On the other hand, maybe that would look fine.

I'm thinking some 3mm optic fibre tube, or maybe a bit wider, and a bit of removable white heat-shrink over the LED end, and the other end glued into a custom hole in the case. When installing into the case, you'd need to slip the heat-shrink caps over the LEDs. I've seen similar in PC case designs for power/HDD LEDs, even some pretty old ones.

Anyway, the point of 3D custom printing is that people can modify to their own tastes. A good basic shell is a great place to start. No need to get caught up in the fiddly details too much (yet).

Naturally, I'm also thinking ahead to the next stage where I'm getting making cases made in quantities and sold as an optional extra.
Check out my completed projects!


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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #89 on: June 27, 2024, 03:16:23 am »
I'm still failing to make time for this fun stuff but I'm stoked to see this continue while I only have time to watch occassionally!
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #90 on: July 04, 2024, 10:48:16 pm »
I'm away travelling right now, but thinking about printing off a cover when I return - if no one else does?

Zebidee

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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #91 on: July 04, 2024, 11:23:46 pm »
Yes, do it!

Naponic has done some cool designs, but having printer/filament issues.

If we can come up with one or more "proofable" designs I can host them on my google share.

I'm away travelling right now, but thinking about printing off a cover when I return - if no one else does?
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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #92 on: July 05, 2024, 02:32:25 am »
No worries Zeb, right now I'm  in Asia myself. In a week or so we'll work together on it.
« Last Edit: July 05, 2024, 03:29:08 am by Ond »

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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #93 on: July 16, 2024, 11:41:41 pm »
First enclosure prototype is printing.


This version includes a portal for the LED.

There will be a few tweaks and adjustments after the first one, lets see...

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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #94 on: July 17, 2024, 01:12:37 am »
Very exciting!

Your GreenAntz doesn't have the v1.94 sync LED unfortunately.

Would you like to use some proper/original GreenAntz logo art? I can share files with you.
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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #95 on: July 17, 2024, 08:43:34 am »
Very exciting!

Your GreenAntz doesn't have the v1.94 sync LED unfortunately.

Would you like to use some proper/original GreenAntz logo art? I can share files with you.
It was fun designing the case. It's a work in progress now. The first print let me adjust some spacing and fitting issues. I'll play around with the design until I get a print that I'm happy with.  The original artwork would be handy once I have the enclosure model geometry sorted.

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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #96 on: July 19, 2024, 01:02:46 am »
I didn't like the boxy first version so I did a more pleasing (to me) curvy version.


Here are the results printed in clear filament:





Some small adjustments for screws to fit, mainly just a slight countersunk size and shape for M3 self tapping screws and maybe a fraction more room around the power cable plug head. Other than that - good to go!  ;D Separate holes for the RCA sockets is not a good idea, there just ain't enough room on that fitting!

Zeb, if you want I can add a logo. Basically just a thinly printed black/green badge would look good.  I recommend a single badge to keep things simple. The Ant head is a good choice. Keep in mind that filament printers don't do fine filigree work or very thin parts too well. Maybe send me a Google drive link for artwork and I'll have a look?

If you want another final sample print in different colors let me know. I get filament way cheaper than most folks so no big deal. Cost for the STL files? Hmm let me see here, my hourly rate is $200US * 5Hrs minus the BYOAC member discount which comes to a total of... $0.00.  Hey, that's cheap!   :laugh2: Ok, I have to get back to some PCB crossover design now.

 :cheers:


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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #97 on: July 19, 2024, 02:46:01 am »
Ond, that already looks great!

I too prefer curves in the right places, no need for hard edges/corners. Sure, it is a box, but it doesn't have to look boxy.

So that is how the "clear" comes out - basically a slightly opaque white. But that looks good too, and the power LED is visible through it. Which means the design would also accommodate v1.94 with a sync LED.

I concur with you about the logo too - simple is better. Will assemble a modest zip package of files and PM you the link in next couple of days. You can take what you need from that.

Nice work! Thank you! Love the members price <3
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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #98 on: July 20, 2024, 02:12:12 am »
Great work on that Ond.
Always nice to see the product of someone with a great mind and eye for design.
I'm still trying to catch up on projects among crises here but I'm looking forward to my next raster build!
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.

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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #99 on: July 20, 2024, 06:26:45 pm »
Ond, that already looks great!

I too prefer curves in the right places, no need for hard edges/corners. Sure, it is a box, but it doesn't have to look boxy.

So that is how the "clear" comes out - basically a slightly opaque white. But that looks good too, and the power LED is visible through it. Which means the design would also accommodate v1.94 with a sync LED.

I concur with you about the logo too - simple is better. Will assemble a modest zip package of files and PM you the link in next couple of days. You can take what you need from that.

Nice work! Thank you! Love the members price <3

Thanks Zeb, yes the artwork would be a nice finishing touch. I've made some final adjustments (see below) after realizing there is in fact room for individual RCA port holes. For some reason I was thinking about the outer plug plastic sheath diameter's not having enough room instead of the metal plug parts.

Great work on that Ond.
Always nice to see the product of someone with a great mind and eye for design.
I'm still trying to catch up on projects among crises here but I'm looking forward to my next raster build!

Thanks bobby, you've become one of my fav builders here. Love your vector AND raster work! I hope you do keep building,  I always find inspiration in your work.
It's just cold here right now so I prefer working on the computer doing design stuff until the weather warms up again and I can get back to cabinet building.
 :cheers:

As usual I can't rest up on a project (even a mini one) until I've tweaked it to my satisfaction. I think it is adequate now. I've tested with readily available screws and the GreenAntz board that I have. The printed parts should fit nicely together and screws should go in without needing a torque wrench  :lol The 3D print design should be somewhere near PL1's best practice criteria?






« Last Edit: July 20, 2024, 09:48:38 pm by Ond »

PL1

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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #100 on: July 20, 2024, 10:16:41 pm »
The printed parts should fit nicely together and screws should go in without needing a torque wrench  :lol The 3D print design should be somewhere near PL1's best practice criteria?
Great work as always, Ond!   :notworthy:
- That design should print fine on any printer with no supports or raft/brim.

Looks like it would be easy to add four heat-set threaded inserts for the screws that hold the top and bottom together and/or rubber feet (screw through the center, NOT adhesive!  Mouser P/N 534-723 are the best ones I've found, but you might need M4 or M5 hardware) if one were inclined to do so.

The only thing I see that you might consider beefing up is the alignment tabs.  They wil be strong enough once the lid screws are inserted, but are thin enough that they might break if there is some lateral force applied during assembly.  If they were taller, it would definitely be an issue.

To spitball an idea to make the case design a bit more versatile, a sneaky feature that you could add is three holes per LED for people who want to use non-translucent filament for the case.  That would allow the light-pipe idea that Zebidee mentioned earlier through a hole over the LED and mount a separate logo on the other two holes.  Maybe design an alternate logo that mounts over all three holes for people who don't care about the LEDs.   :dunno


Scott

Ond

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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #101 on: Yesterday at 07:53:02 am »
Thanks Scott, I've taken your suggestions into consideration. I've added more of the alignment tabs to increase the strength along the seam. I'm open to further refining the design to include some of the other things but I'm also mindful of keeping the parts count to a minimum to make it as accessible to everyone as possible.

Zebidee kindly provided some of his original artwork that went onto the GreenAntz PCB. I've taken the most workable of that in terms of 3D printing and crafted it a bit for a single snap on logo.  Some concept renders to show color combo's:


The logo printed in green with snap on posts:


An example case printed in black with the logo attached.  It's a good tight snap on fit, a bit of glue on each post would make it permanent.


Adding holes for light pipes re: the Sync and power LED is no problem. I'll leave that to Zeb to ponder for a bit. One thing to keep in mind is light pipes are not very effective with low luminescence LEDS. They work just OK with reasonably bright ones.

 :cheers:


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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #102 on: Yesterday at 04:04:31 pm »
The logo looks great.  Exactly how I pictured attaching it to the case.   :cheers:

I'm also mindful of keeping the parts count to a minimum to make it as accessible to everyone as possible.
I figured that the threaded inserts and rubber feet would be optional.

If you add the chamber for the heat set inserts and someone doesn't use them, will the screws still be able to engage well enough or should anyone wanting to use inserts drill the chambers for them?

One thing to keep in mind is light pipes are not very effective with low luminescence LEDS. They work just OK with reasonably bright ones.
Agreed.  That and keeping down the parts count is why I suggested the "light funnel" idea earlier.

Perhaps more of a slightly tapered (5-10 degrees?) "light chimney" would be acceptable or maybe add alignment divots on the inside of the case over the LEDs so someone can drill out the holes if they want.
-------------------------
If someone wants to add screw terminals for an alternate power source, do you want to add wire holes or a removable panel?

If you don't want to have the holes on all cases, maybe make recessed alignment divots on the inside of the case so anyone wanting to use this feature can drill them out.  Same for two screwdriver holes in the top so you can tighen/loosen the screw terminals without removing the lid.




Scott

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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #103 on: Yesterday at 11:14:57 pm »
Ond, the logo inset looks fantastic! You turned that around quickly.

How about ventilation slats or holes? GreenAntz doesn't produce a lot of waste heat, but maybe worth thinking about.


If someone wants to add screw terminals for an alternate power source, do you want to add wire holes or a removable panel?

If you don't want to have the holes on all cases, maybe make recessed alignment divots on the inside of the case so anyone wanting to use this feature can drill them out.  Same for two screwdriver holes in the top so you can tighen/loosen the screw terminals without removing the lid.

Thanks for your ideas Scott.

My thoughts about the "alternate power" inputs are: Maybe 1/10 people want to use them, they usually aren't much concerned about a case (because it is going into a cabinet of some kind anyway), and a single "alignment divot" on the side would allow them to drill their own anyway (one small hole is all you need for both wires). No holes needed on top for the screw terminals - anybody with a screwdriver can just remove lid of the case to secure the wires, one-time as needed.

Regarding LEDs, I use 3mm "bright" LEDs that throw light "up" more than "sideways". They run with large current limiting resistors (~50K for the power LED, 10K for the sync LED) to throttle the brightness down to something that won't make you blink or squint in a darkened room. They may be bright enough for a light pipe already, but easy for me to use lower values in future for the current limiting resistors too. Retrofitting lower LED resistors (=> brighter) is fairly easy as you can just run an extra resistor under the PCB, though I don't expect many people would do this.

Worth considering a SCART version too - this could be a breakout panel for the larger SCART input, or a modified build. Less demand overall, but people that want SCART often ask about a case as they are more likely to use GreenAntz with consoles in a lounge room style, console + controllers + TV environment.
Check out my completed projects!


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Re: GreenAntz RGB to component transcoder
« Reply #104 on: Today at 02:06:35 am »
How about ventilation slats or holes?
Vent slats over the LEDs ==> two birds, one stone.   ;D

a single "alignment divot" on the side would allow them to drill their own anyway (one small hole is all you need for both wires). No holes needed on top for the screw terminals - anybody with a screwdriver can just remove lid of the case to secure the wires, one-time as needed.
Sorry, but I'm gonna strongly disagree on this.

Four divots seems like the best choice -- two for the wires and two for jeweler's screwdrivers.

If you only have one hole for the wire, it has to be large enough to cover both screw terminals.
- The only argument I can make for one large hole is if there is a large enough gap between the case and the screw terminals that the wires might veer off course between entering the case and entering the screw terminal.  How big is that gap, Ond?
- Two smaller (3-4mm) wire holes will look cleaner than one large (9-10mm) wire hole and the smaller holes should better serve as a guide when inserting a wire into the terminal.  If so, smaller holes ==> better fit, form, and function.
- Worst case if two small holes don't work, drill them with a 5mm or 6mm bit then use an exacto knife to turn the two holes into an oval.  You'd be cutting parallel to the print layers so it should be easy.

If someone wants to mount the case on a shelf or wall by adding some simple brackets or Z-shaped mounting legs, it would be much more difficult to remove the lid than to have holes for jeweler's screwdrivers.
- If they aren't using heat-set threaded inserts, every time they take the lid off there is a greater chance that the lid screws are going to strip out.
- Having the option to drill screwdriver holes makes the case much more maintenance-friendly.
- Divots are easy and drilling them is optional.  I can make no argument for not including these two divots.

It would be wise to consider how much people in this hobby like to tinker with things.   ;)
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One other thing that would be nice to add on the outside of the case next to where the wire holes would be drilled is small inset "+" and "-" polarity markings.


Scott