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My 29inch CRT standup cabinet

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Zebidee:
Your work looks very neat but I haven't seen your thread until now and need to ask:

Have you considered the issues that 100hz TVs typically have with 240p resolutions? I'm talking about colour bleeding (especially on red), digital "artifacts" and pixels that change colours? Have you experienced these issues? I have experience with Loewe 100hz TVs but not Sony 100hz TVs.

CORRECTION: I re-read your starting post and I see that it isn't a 100hz TV, my mistake :D

GIRFT1:
Thanks Zebidee
I am 99% certain the sony 29 inch tv is not 100Hz model but i did find it very difficult to unearth any documentation regarding older tvs (the user guide does not really help) - i think the chassis is a non 100Hz one.

GIRFT1:
Its been a long time since any updates. Lots of reasons many centred around my garage work space being taken over by a group of insensitive  builders for storage of their cement bags. Anyway they have now left and i have been making slow but steady progress.
I have attached the cabinet sides, I used two temporary thick wooden struts to allow be to stand the cabinet upright whilst fitting the back and top woodwork.

GIRFT1:
Ive also spent some time gathering some other essential bits. I bought some old coin doors. I quickly learned that they are not all of uniform size - the first one i bought was a sega door and it didnt fit my metal frame so i had to buy a second. The sega door did however come with some well made and well functioning coin mechanisms (asahi). The mechs were designed to work with yen coins but after a bit of tinkering i managed to remove a small brass sizing lever and they now work well with a Polish Zlotty coin - which I happen to have a box of in the house.
I stripped the metal work down with paint stripper and applied a coat of spray can metal primer. I was really please with the result. The new door needed a bit of metal filler where there were extra holes made by the old coin mechs but after two coats of primer they were unnoticeable. Im considering whether to use a textured black paint or plain matt for the top coat. Im still on the lookout for a blank embossed lower coin door - they dont come up very often for sale in the uk
I also found an old Cambridge sound works pc speaker system and I'm hoping that the subwoofer and the two 4ohm 10w speakers will be sufficient. The system also comes with a wired volume / balance control that i hope to  fix through the top of the cabinet.

GIRFT1:
I tried my hand at mdf "Kerfing". There are several websites that provide calculators to predict cut depth and cut spacing. But i found the best method was to experiment on a piece of scrap wood. For a 12mm sheet of standard mdf I used 10mm cut depth with 9 mm spacing. For the sides and front of the cabinet i used 18mm deep routing mdf but I wanted sometihng lighter for the top and sides, i also wanted the top and back to look neat. Kerfing was actually easier than i thought it would be - i used a hand held circular saw and the curves ended up being smooth - definitely practise first.
I wanted the back to be easy to remove as i know that i will have to connect a secondary lcd monitor at times when the crt is fed an inappropriate video resolution or frequency. I used butterfly latches but had really wanted lower profile rotating latches (couldn't find any).

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