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woodworking help
mahuti:
Hasps are nice too, for finishing, and grinding out wood REALLY fast. You have to do touch up work with some type of finishing sander, but if you want to take a little extra wood off of a wavy line, a good hasp can make that happen for you really quick.
tivogre:
I rough cut (leave about 1/4" outside the line) with a jig saw. Then Trim up with a router and pattern bit.
After you've rough cut, you can screw down a straight edge right on your line. One pass with the pattern bit, and the line is as perfect as your straight edge; no wandering.
If you're not familliar with a pattern bit, it's essentially a straight cutting bit with a bearing at the TOP (near the shank).
I would buy one with 1-1 1/2" diameter... that way your inside radii will be large enouth to accept t-molding.
Here's a picture of the bit:
Let me know if you want more info.
shmokes:
I did the same thing as tivogre (pattern bit in router), but to clarify, you need a pattern to follow.
Either rough cut one side panel and then sand the hell out of it until it's perfect and use that as a pattern to follow to make an exact duplicate for the other side panel, or pick up a sheet of 1/8" or 1/4" hardboard (A.K.A. Masonite or Fiberboard) and cut/sand that first to use it as a pattern to cut out both side panels from MDF, Melamine, Plywood, etc.
Hardboard cuts and sands really easily. It's the stuff commonly used as peg board in workshops to hang the tools on. A 4'x8' sheet is about $10 for 1/8" or $15 for 1/4" thick. The 1/8" is way easier to sand, but it's a little harder to follow with the router than 1/4". Either would be a good choice, though, and probably preferable to sanding down 3/4" MDF after a rough cut. Personally, I'd go with 1/4" hardboard and spend a little extra time to sand, rather than risk messing up my expensive wood because the 1/8" didn't provide enough surface for the bearing on the pattern bit to follow.
Good Luck
jsomethin:
The single most important thing I learned (the hard way) regarding using a circular saw to cut MDF (or probably anything else for that matter) is to properly set the blade depth. When I first started, I didn't even look to see what the depth was. Essentially, you want to set the depth so that your blade is about 1/4" deeper than the wood you're cutting. The object is to get the least amount of blade going through the wood, so that it will cut easier.
If that didn't make any sense, let me know and I'll try to explain better.
Trust me...this makes a WORLD of difference!!!!!!
rockhopper:
--- Quote ---Hasps are nice too, for finishing, and grinding out wood REALLY fast.
--- End quote ---
Hasp or Rasp?
you mean the really rough files yeah, I'm pretty sure it's Rasp.
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