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Arachnid Super Six dart board power supply upgrade to switcher

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Ken Layton:
Some old instructions of mine regarding upgrading the original Arachnid power supply to a switcher:

Converting a 6000 (Super Six), 6100 (Super Six Plus), 6200 & 6300 (Super Six Plus 2) power supply from that crappy linear design to a modern switching regulator. You will need a screw terminal switching regulator power supply capable of outputing at least 3 amps (preferably 4 amps) on the +12 volt line. The reason for this is that the monitor, amplifier, and coin door lamps/gameboard lamps/pushbutton lamps all run on the 12 volts.

1. Remove the old circuit board that's screwed to the big blue capacitor.

2. Remove the big blue electrolytic capacitor and it's mounting bracket.

3. Remove the power transformer. Follow it's black wires underneath the chassis to the lamp dimmer circuit board. Now cut off the black wires an inch or two away from the board.

4. Butt splice an 18 gauge stranded wire to each of the black wires you just cut on that board. The wires should be about a foot long for each one. These will be the AC power wires to the new switching regulator power supply.

5. Place the new switching power supply on top of the chassis and mark locations of it's mounting brackets and drill four 3/32" holes. When drilling the holes be sure not to drill through the lamp dimmer board (or it's components) and make sure no metal filings/shavings fall on the board. Mount the new supply with four #6 sheet metal screws about 1/4" to 3/8" long.

6. Now to connect the DC outputs of the new supply to the game harness Connector J1 which plugged into the original power supply. Connect all the +5 volt wires of the game wiring harness (pins 4 and 6) to the +5 volt terminal on the new supply. Connect all the GROUND wires of the game wiring harness (pins 1, 3, 9, and 10) to the Common terminals on the new supply. Connect all the +12 volt (pins 5, 7, and 8 ) AND the +21 volt (pin 2) wires to the +12 volt terminal on the new power supply. The +21 volts was for the audio amplifier which will work fine on the +12 volt connection.

Pinout of J1:
1 is Ground (black wire)
2 is +21 volts for amplifier (green wire) [can be connected to +12 volts instead and still work for sound]
3 is Ground (black wire)
4 is +5 volts (red wire)
5 is +12 volts to coin door lamps (wire color varies from machine to machine, but is usually blue)
6 is +5 volts (red wire)
7 is +12 volts to remove/throw darts lights and pushbutton lights (wire color varies, but is usually blue)
8 is +12 volts to monitor (blue wire)
9 is Ground (black wire)
10 is Ground (black wire)

Suggested power supplies:

Mean Well model RD-85A:
https://www.jameco.com/z/RD-85A-MEAN-WELL-AC-to-DC-Power-Supply-Dual-Output-5-Volt-12-Volt-10-Amp-5-Amp-88-Watt_323628.html

Mean Well RD-125A:
https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&langId=-1&freeText=323741&storeId=10001&productId=323741&krypto=2x5DL11df3Ab6Sx2lbD6377aqnl%2F1L4hHyiQv8xronwgLGyqldMA78BKzDk1psqyIZB7%2BaeqoNF%2Bew%2FIDqX7JhDvTfgblaqegmvYheM9Gqbc7FXIlUTJh24nd5yhkj8Z&ddkey=https%3AStoreCatalogDrillDownView

Happ Controls 80-0210-00:
https://na.suzohapp.com/products/power_supplies/80-0210-00

Ken Layton:
Alert:

Arachnid has removed all manuals and schematics for all "legacy" machines (including the 6000/6100/6200/6300) from their website.

https://www.arachnid360.com/2019-commercial-products/legacy-dartboards/6000-series-dartboards/

All you get now is just a general description of what the machines were and when they were produced. Not very helpful if you're trying to repair a machine.

SpeedyJ97:
I think I am going to try this. I posted in another thread, hoping you would see also. I would like to make a dongle and use a male male connector so i dont cut up the game wiring harness. Which looks like what you are doing in the pics there? I remember these posts from many years ago and had recorded the information but never got around to doing it. Oddly enough, i FOUND a switching power supply in the side of the cabinet today opposite where the coin door is. Looks like a previous owner was on the right track and walked away? Its brand new, but junk albeit. Min Dong MD-9916A. Quick look seems like this has the power i need even if it is an 'off brand'.

I would still like to fix my original power supply. Without going into much detail, it is missing the 12V circuit on all legs. But the important 5V one is intact.

You are an asset to the world here sir. keep on posting.   

TGill:
Hi Ken,  I would like to do this upgrade and I want to buy the Mean Well RD-125a or 85a.  The minimum current rating on the +5v is 2A.  Does the Super Six draw enough current to meet this requirement.  Thanks in advance.  I have used your advice a few times.

TGill:
I decided to try the Mean Well RD125.  It worked great.  The mounting is a little different.  I had to drill three clearance for M3 screws.  The screws come up through the bottom of the base and screw into threaded holes in the power supply.  The power supply ends up hanging off each side by a little bit because the power supply is longer than the base.  I’m not sure if it matters but one of the black power wires that goes to the light circuit in the base is labeled Neutral on the circuit board so I made sure I connected that wire to the Neutral on the power supply.  My base is plastic so I also connected a ground to the ground terminal on the power supply.  Do not do this.  The manual says the ground is supposed to be floating so I later removed the ground.  My power supply is also mounted 180 degrees from how Ken mounted it.  I would have not been able to access the terminals on the power supply after I reinstalled the whole assembly unless I turned it around.  The other thing about the Mean Well is that they have the voltages labeled as V1 and V2 and they don’t tell you which is the 5 or 12v.  I tried to measure the voltages without a load and the voltage just cycles.  It needs a load to measure the voltage.  Anyway, V1 is 5v and V2 is 12 volt.  I am very happy with the result.  No more game locking up and no more lines across the monitor.  Everything works including the sound.  Thanks Ken.  I wouldn’t have attempted this without your write up.

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