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javeryh's Small-ish Bartop ["Jack Attack!"]
bperkins01:
You are overcomplicating the crap out of this and creating a space shuttle kit.
This can be done with a couple of machine screws and a threaded insert.
or
Look at this..
https://www.amazon.com/Tegg-Stainless-Security-Hardware-Tensionlock/dp/B07LBQ2HGG/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=suitcase+latch&qid=1612806570&sr=8-3
Look at real machines that have been around for 40 years.. Vast majority use bigger versions of this.
I've had the opportunity to work many professionals in a lot of different fields over the years .. they all have one common thread .. simplify..simplify simplify
No one builds that much stuff to hold down 18x8" of material..
Come back from the edge..
javeryh:
--- Quote from: bperkins01 on February 08, 2021, 12:56:23 pm ---You are overcomplicating the crap out of this and creating a space shuttle kit.
This can be done with a couple of machine screws and a threaded insert.
or
Look at this..
https://www.amazon.com/Tegg-Stainless-Security-Hardware-Tensionlock/dp/B07LBQ2HGG/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=suitcase+latch&qid=1612806570&sr=8-3
Look at real machines that have been around for 40 years.. Vast majority use bigger versions of this.
I've had the opportunity to work many professionals in a lot of different fields over the years .. they all have one common thread .. simplify..simplify simplify
No one builds that much stuff to hold down 18x8" of material..
Come back from the edge..
--- End quote ---
;D I agree I'm in way too deep.
But that clip is way too big to fit inside of the cabinet under the control panel. I didn't leave enough room inside for anything except the rare earth magnets countersunk in the rails, which turned out to not be strong enough. I love simple - if there is a simple way to do this I'm all for it. The threaded insert is probably the best way but I only have an area about 1-1/2"x 5/8" under the CP to attach anything to ... on an 11 degree angle (and the CP is only 1/2" thick).
bperkins01:
on the cab sides - you have a long cleats with the magnet (that didn't work)
Pop those off the inside and glue / screw to the underside of the CP. You just made your CP thicker. Which is the real problem that you have.
The CP is thin so you can't connect anything to it..
Now you have 2 choices
1. Secure them through the sides of the cab (simple) - but I think you have side art.. so this is out..
or
2. Add a new set of side cleats below them on the cabinet sides like the ones you just popped off.
Then screw through the new side cleats into the new bottom (of the CP) cleats.
Make sense?
Simple :)
Gilrock:
I'm finishing up a couple bartops right now and relearning the controls setup in RetroPie. The solutions are usually simple it just takes me time to find the right Youtube video or website. If you are in a game run by a RetroArch core then hit your hotkey + x and it should bring up a configuration menu. Just make sure to change the configuration option save on exit to On. Then you can save control settings either per core or per game. Mame was fairly standard if you have a keyboard handy just hit Tab and configure. Then I'd recommend setting the game exit to your select + start combo then hit it again and use ESC as a second option for whenever the keyboard is hooked up. I'm find some controls really weird like the Sega MegaDrive core I felt like my button 1 should shoot and button 2 should jump but they were acting reversed. Then I get it fixed but then the button 1 no longer works to go through the screens to start the game. I don't know what the original controls were for some of these games so maybe people wanted their primary finger hitting jump but I like it to be shoot. Guess I could look it up. But yeah setting up controls on all the different emulators can be a chore.
vertexguy:
From what I gather you don't want bolts showing anywhere if possible (bottom being ok because it's never seen), and ideally don't want to have to dissect a whole lot with the existing cab?
Bperkins second option seems similar to what I had proposed in point F. Here's a "simplified" approach that just uses fewer wood pieces, but overall takes up more available space. It would be stronger over all.
I'm going to assume you will need to add more thickness to where you want to add inserts as a 1/2" seems like it's a mighty small space to have much grab strength. An 8-32 insert leaves just under 1/8th on each side of it if you get it dead center on your 1/2 stock. It may be strong enough though? Perhaps if you super glue it in as well? Otherwise if you're more comfortable with something a little thicker here I just doubled the thickness (so 14/16 actual) on the bottom where you can add inserts. That would give you more of a margin of error and greater side strength for the insert.
Not sure if just 2 inserts in the back will be enough to prevent the front from popping up slightly or not. If not, my idea was to just glue on a small 1/8th thick piece of metal on the inside front that meets flush with the inside base of the cab. Then put an elevated strip of metal over it. Basically making a tiny door latch that doesn't move. Then the front would slide off straight instead of lifting to get around the latch.
Here's a variation idea....
This concept makes a door at the base of the cab to access things. You could use inserts for that too but I went with a key insert latch and a lip on the other end in this example. The idea is that once the bottom is open, you have access to the 4 inserts up top holding the CP on. They should ideally be hex as you will probably not have enough of a straight shot to use a screw driver on them. The downside I see to this is that it again relies on precision holes in 1/2" wood.
Only other thought would be if there's a possibility to access and extend something from the back of the cabinet, below the screen.
Another consideration though is, how often will anyone really need to access this area? Threaded inserts may not be needed and regular screws could be sufficient, which makes working with the 1/2 slightly easier...just make sure you're cutting the wood to not be screwing into end grains.
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