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javeryh's Small-ish Bartop ["Jack Attack!"]
javeryh:
--- Quote from: Mike A on June 01, 2018, 09:24:03 am ---Put the volume knob and power button on the top near the back.
--- End quote ---
Good idea. Power for sure since it is flush with the top panel. The volume knob will stick out and annoy me but this will free up room on the rear panel for volume on the left and power socket on the right. Problem solved... I think.
lomoverde:
is it possible to wire these to the top for volume control?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Pcs-10x9mm-4-Pin-Momentary-Blue-Light-Volume-Control-Tactile-Switch/152570745870?epid=26012042575&hash=item2385ecd40e:g:N0UAAOSwcgNZMY5W
javeryh:
--- Quote from: lomoverde on June 01, 2018, 12:44:43 pm ---is it possible to wire these to the top for volume control?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Pcs-10x9mm-4-Pin-Momentary-Blue-Light-Volume-Control-Tactile-Switch/152570745870?epid=26012042575&hash=item2385ecd40e:g:N0UAAOSwcgNZMY5W
--- End quote ---
I suppose I could do something like that but the volume knob is just the easiest thing for me to do (famous last words). I'd also want the buttons to be black so they do not stand out. I think I've got it sorted but I'm going to make a test panel tonight or tomorrow morning if time permits. :cheers:
javeryh:
Next up was laying out the wood strips that will be used to connect all of the panels. I'm screwing them in temporarily so that I can assemble and disassemble the cabinet easily while cutting out the panels and painting but when it comes time I'll be using wood glue (with the screws) to hold everything together permanently. Paint will go on much much easier if I only have to worry about flat surfaces.
Anyway, the first thing I did was set my square to 3/4" and then ran it around the inside edge to give me the exact line where the wood strips will go. The 3/4" accounts for a 1/4" reveal plus the thickness of the wood dowel (1/2" x 1/2"). I used spring clamps to hold each piece in place and then drilled a 1/8" hole freehand with my drill (using a piece of tape on the drill bit so I knew how far down to go). I do not own a drill press so it's not perfect but it's passable.
The only angles I cut in the wood dowels were on the front of the CP. I need this to be as precise as possible. The rest of the pieces will be hidden so I didn't need to be as exact - just had to be sure they were all lined up. I also made sure that the wood strips for the top panel and the speaker panel did not go to the edge. That would screw up the lighting for the marquee down the road so I came 1-1/8" short of the front edge... for no reason other than this seemed like enough room.
Here is a shot of both sides completed with the screws in:
Close-up of CP area:
With this taken care of I could start cutting the cross pieces and instead of measuring I could actually place the piece of MDF and mark off the length for a more precise cut. One thing I'm not 100% sure of is how I'm going to hold the monitor glass in place. I've seen some creative solutions by others but I haven't settled on anything yet. The only reason I mention this is because the wood dowel marked "speaker" may need to be shortened if I plan to tuck the glass behind that panel.
:cheers:
leapinlew:
Servo-joystick and all the gear going to fit in there?
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