Arcade Collecting > Pinball

Xenon - partial restore

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Le Chuck:
Thanks guys, I'm really enjoying this one so far.

Jen, I have a cutter as well, so I'm thinking about doing some guides for the text and detail work to make the painting go a bit faster, but it depends on if I can get the source scans I have sized up correctly. I'll have to do some test prints and see if that will work or if I'll have to be cutting the frisket by hand. Is your badger the 350? That one didn't seem to be that bad, but I have normalish sized mitts I guess.

I looked at vinyls but the majority of the PF is in good shape and I've seen horrors when the clear goes on too hot and ripples the vinyl so I'm gunshy to try that - plus I want to see if I can knock the art out myself.


Pix, thanks for all the recommendations. I hadn't planned on leaving bare paint by any stretch. The whole PF is getting auto-cleared before another pinball streaks across it. Interesting idea on the plastic, but the yellow doesn't really bother me - I might mix up some retrobrite and spot apply it just to that window area and see if I can pull a few shades out of it that way. The cab is almost 40. I'm not trying to make it day one beautiful, just shine it up. I agree that repro plastics aren't always worth the money.

I'll definetly be laying a protective clear coat once I get the wood the way I want it so I can lock down the fibers before I spend the next however long it takes me to paint it.

Thanks for the recommendation on the wax, I'll give it a shot. Sounds like a great solution.

jennifer:
   I have run into that problem too, My plotter software and P/s file was inconsistent at best and apparently A/I has better vectors sooo, Solution was scan, P/s, into A/i , and then into plotter (flex8 in my case) Doing that by hand will drive you mad and you will need a ride to the asylum.... Don't remember the badger offhand, been awhile since I used it, seems it was some big step plate about the size of a nickel, completely different than the Iwata, (really nice, but more for micron),.... The worry of vinyl for me is the wear through shows white not wood and find that a bit discerning, The trick to spraying it however is build it up, a dry light coat to lock it down, and keep building off that letting it tack nice, you will have considerable orangpeel on the first 6 coats, but lightly sand and recoat a little wetter Resand, respray wet with a taste of actone and finish smooth.... Its tricky however you may want to practice first if you go that route.

Le Chuck:
Oof both of those sound like a lot of work for the payoff. I think I can freehand the art off the source pics. I'll dig out the tracing paper and carbons and see what I can line up lol

jennifer:
   *Jennifer laughs.... It is not as bad as it sounds, lot of dry times to reduce shrinkage, and templates. The hard part is disassembling that thing, and getting it done before you forget how to put it back together, because when you start you are pretty much committed. I have never seen that flour thing, and would be curious as to what you actually did, and did it actually work like you planned? it did seem to get the Mylar off nice... Jenn usually uses naphtha and magic eraser on the stubborn parts. 

Le Chuck:

--- Quote from: jennifer on October 11, 2017, 02:59:40 am ---   *Jennifer laughs.... It is not as bad as it sounds, lot of dry times to reduce shrinkage, and templates. The hard part is disassembling that thing, and getting it done before you forget how to put it back together, because when you start you are pretty much committed. I have never seen that flour thing, and would be curious as to what you actually did, and did it actually work like you planned? it did seem to get the Mylar off nice... Jenn usually uses naphtha and magic eraser on the stubborn parts.

--- End quote ---

Flour and 90%+ IPA is the new hotness for adhesive removal. Almost the entire PF was a sticky stubborn mess. Flour on first, wet with alcohol. Let dry once. Redampen and start rubbing your hand on the PF. Adhesive jumps off in clumps and sheets, except on the inserts. There you gotta ME and naphtha that beyoch. Keeps the adhesive from smearing around as you clean it up.

edited because my phone typing made this post read all dumb the first time.

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