So ... 3d Printers....

[nitrogen_widget]

Am happy to say after a few days of printing my directdrive setup is working great and i've doubled my print speed.
nothing crazy.
about the same speed as my Vyper.
still haven't configured pressure advance or input shaping and not sure if i will bother.

next up is the LK5 pro. i picked up a direct drive backplate for that. since it's a bigger print bed i will probably try input shaping.

[BadMouth]

still haven't configured pressure advance or input shaping and not sure if i will bother.
since it's a bigger print bed i will probably try input shaping.

Both those things make a huge difference and not just in speed.
Getting pressure advance right makes the sides print look smoother and eliminates bulging at the corner.
Input shaper gets rid of artifacts that may be worse at higher speeds, but the improvement will probably still be visible at your current speeds.
(Or you can print much faster and end up with the same quality you have now.)

Initial setup for input shaping is a bit of a PITA, but neither is that difficult once you get into them.
Pressure advance can vary by filament, but in my experience it doesn't vary all that much if sticking to the same type of filament (ie ABS).  I only change it when running bigger nozzles or weird filament types.  If you are constantly changing filaments and nozzle sizes, then I can see where it would be a hassle.  You can have the slicer set it as part of the filament profile, but if using the same profiles on a bunch of different printers that could be an issue.

[RandyT]

I couldn't take the Voron hype anymore and ordered a refurbed SV08.  May God have mercy on my soul.

[nitrogen_widget]

still haven't configured pressure advance or input shaping and not sure if i will bother.
since it's a bigger print bed i will probably try input shaping.

Both those things make a huge difference and not just in speed.
Getting pressure advance right makes the sides print look smoother and eliminates bulging at the corner.
Input shaper gets rid of artifacts that may be worse at higher speeds, but the improvement will probably still be visible at your current speeds.
(Or you can print much faster and end up with the same quality you have now.)

Initial setup for input shaping is a bit of a PITA, but neither is that difficult once you get into them.
Pressure advance can vary by filament, but in my experience it doesn't vary all that much if sticking to the same type of filament (ie ABS).  I only change it when running bigger nozzles or weird filament types.  If you are constantly changing filaments and nozzle sizes, then I can see where it would be a hassle.  You can have the slicer set it as part of the filament profile, but if using the same profiles on a bunch of different printers that could be an issue.

ok you convinced me.
even though i'm only printing at 100-120mm/s on this printer.
any faster and it shakes like hell.

[nitrogen_widget]

I couldn't take the Voron hype anymore and ordered a refurbed SV08.  May God have mercy on my soul.

corexy.
at some point

[pbj]

https://www.printables.com/model/845316-sega-32x-cartridge-shell



 

[PL1]

https://www.printables.com/model/845316-sega-32x-cartridge-shell

 

I'm guessing that post means you need some prints for your latest PCBs.

And the beauty of all this is that the only thing distinguishing a 32X game from a Genesis game is the ROM header, so all those PCBs I have laying around work fine:



Only about 40 games total, so I'll just go ahead and make the entire library.

Which model(s) from the printables link (Original Repro Cart, Original Repro Cart Extended, MD-Gens Compatible Cart, or MD-Gens Compatible Cart extended) and what color(s)?


Scott

[RandyT]

I know it's not a "true Voron", but the SV-08 is pretty amazing for the cost.  Still not sure how they can do it, considering that it's not much more than an upper-tier bedslinger.  There are still some things to tweak and tune on the unit, but I think they succeeded in making a "Voron for the masses", so long as they aren't neophytes.

In all honesty, the machine makes my bedslingers look like toys.  They aren't, of course, but watching the SV-08 make a Benchy in 12 minutes was giving me some palpable sci-fi movie vibes.  The wild thing is that the result was quite decent and definitely not the worst 3D print I had ever seen.

I also bought the enclosure kit with it, and the look is pretty stunning.  But don't believe the "15 minute" install if anyone is considering one.  There are 27 fiddly panel screws, a drag chain for main wires, routing wires to the control board for the exhaust fan, fiddly glass door hinges, magnetic door stops and foam padding strips to deal with.  It took about as long to assemble the enclosure as the printer itself.  The instructions were a bit lacking, but SOVOL has a video I really should have watched instead.  But given how much it stiffens the frame, I really get the feeling that the SV-08 was originally intended to include it by default.  It prints fine without it, so they probably figured that it would be easier to sell the main unit at a lower cost and it would also give them the advantage of stating a "1-hour" build time, which is true.  But IMHO, the machine seems incomplete without it. 

[pbj]

PL1 - it’s a weird situation where the 32x carts are just ever so slightly wider, and the screw holes don’t align with Genesis pcbs.  Apparently some will drill more holes in the Genesis boards to make them fit.  For the next 24 hours at least, one can buy a 32x shell with 4MB flash card in it for $6 shipped in bulk.  Not entirely sure the printing expense is worth the savings here.

 

[PL1]

PL1 - it’s a weird situation where the 32x carts are just ever so slightly wider, and the screw holes don’t align with Genesis pcbs.  Apparently some will drill more holes in the Genesis boards to make them fit.  For the next 24 hours at least, one can buy a 32x shell with 4MB flash card in it for $6 shipped in bulk.  Not entirely sure the printing expense is worth the savings here.

 

The models you linked to have different center-to-center distances for the screw holes, but the guy who uploaded them didn't post the info on the required PCB hole sizes and spacing or explain why he had two fronts and two backs in each of the two widths. (8 files)   

If you want, I can reverse engineer the relevant info from the models in OpenSCAD and post it here so everyone can tell if one of those models will fit their PCB(s).


Scott

[nitrogen_widget]

pressure advance and input shaping achieved.
now to see how my prints come out.
input shaping was a process.
had some issues installing numpy due to python versions on armbian but got it sorted out.

after i calibrated the X i did spit out a part for the input shaper bed mount faster than normal and it looked good.

[nitrogen_widget]

not too bad. .16 layer height. 120mm/s base print speed with 60mms for outer perimeter.
11 hour print.
needs some cleanup but i can only see the layer lines with a hi res photo or my +250 readers so anyone a bars width away will think it look cool staring at them.

i'm making this into a tap handle for a stranger things themed sour we are making for a beer show.
i'm very happy with how this little printer is working and never suspected input shaping would of made such a significant difference in print quality and i was being dumb not thinking it was worth it so thanks guys for convincing me.

now onto my lk5 pro.
i have the config file created for the new board and the firmware installed.
new hotend cooler printed up and direct drive plate in hand plus a bi-metal heat break for stock hot end.
but that's after i get the board plugged in and everything moves.

[RandyT]

Looks good to me!  Nice use of the printer to make a custom tap handle.  Sounds like the infill is pretty dense from the time it took.

[nitrogen_widget]

Looks good to me!  Nice use of the printer to make a custom tap handle.  Sounds like the infill is pretty dense from the time it took.

i went 20% plus 6 walls. i didn't want anything cracking when i put the threaded insert into it for the tap or the base cracking from pulling on it.
in the past i made custom tap handles with less infill and there was too much flexing.

[nitrogen_widget]

ok. the longer lk5pro is now almost ready. btt pico is installed along with external mosfet for the bed heater. probably didn't need it but i saw some posts about how bigger beds can get close to the max power for these because they were meant for smaller printers.

took a bit of configuring to get the moters and steppers moving the right direction and being in the proper state.
i had some issues with the heaters.
they refused to turn on.
i don't know why.
i held a lighter to the heat block and saw it read temp correctly.

i think i might of rebooted the klipper host and the btt pico and it just started working.
but it was weird.

printing up a bltouch adaptor now so i can get that working. once i've printed a few test prints i'll swap to direct drive and bi-metal heat break.
then the pressure advance and input shaping.

[nitrogen_widget]

took the rest of the day to set this up.
now i'm printing on the stock hotend.
need to do input shaping then print some bigger models, check quality and decide if i want to switch to direct drive.

[BadMouth]

i'm making this into a tap handle for a stranger things themed sour we are making for a beer show.

Understand that I am a nitpicker and can't help myself when I see room for improvement.   
I see a lot of little dots where the layer starts and ends.  On something like that which won't bee seen from the rear, I'd move the seam position to the back.
The seam will be a visible line, but the front will look really clean.
My apologies if your seam position is not set to random and I'm misinterpreting something in the picture.