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Dainamikade-Fully dynamic artwork Bartop (prototype stage)
Yvan256:
--- Quote from: markc74 on March 22, 2015, 05:46:02 pm ---Artwork here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2XxpmZ16vfOX2w3ZWU3T1E4dm8&authuser=0
Fliers - loads of zips of reasonably high res flier artwork
Marquees - a mix of low and hi res marquee files
Artwork - the actual files I use to drive the marquees on the cab. When unzipped it will give a load of folders with a layout file and a marquee.png file.
Hope they're useful for ya :)
--- End quote ---
:o
Thank you very much one thousand times! :cheers:
I'll also be using that artwork on MVS-99-6, so that's doubly appreciated!
Typefighter01:
Thought we would have prototype sides cut by now, but we have been doing some small tests on speaker hole design, cut depths with compression router bit for chip free finish and cutting angles for butting back panels together.
It looks like a lot of bartops (especially CNC'd ones) are built with overlaping panels with T-mold instead of proper angle cut butt joints. I understand why as cutting chamfers and angles on material ends is not an easy thing to do on the CNC bed, it's possible, just not easy.
First thing Yvan and I did to make life simple was to design all our butt joints around commonly available chamfer bits. They are usually sold in 15/22.5/30/ and 45 degree angles and are normally used to make multi sided boxes. So we are at the stage where we need to find a simple way of running them through a router. Yvan designed an awesome dowel drilling jig (see it here http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,131934.msg1469586.html#msg1469586) so we decided creating a jig to cut angles was a good direction to take.
Below is a picture of one of the lower back panels. The panel is just a rectangle, but it needs angles on two sides (the long sides). The extra little squares you see on the outside, with the holes, are part of the angle routing jig (they are cut into waste material on either side of finished part). I have asked Yvan to post a Sketchup of jig to help describe the process better. But basically, the jig is layed across panel (it has multiple holes along its length) and dowels are tapped into the holes so jig can provide a spot for bearing of chamfer bit to ride on. The extra little squares are just held on with thick tabs and once angle is routed, they are cut off and panel ends are routed with flush trim bit.
Once we get this jig built, then we can move forward with cab sides...and...NO, cutting angles on the table saw is not an option. The cuts will inevitably look like ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- (chipping) and I would rather just plop them in a jig and have angles perfect ever time than screw around moving table fence for every cut and have panels end up too short or too long.
Here are the bits just so everyone knows what we are talking about.
Yvan256:
Our cabinet has the profile of a Neo-Geo MVS so we have to chamfer some of the panels we cut.
Typefighter01 bought a kit of four chamfering bits. Those are easy to use, but there's one detail: the bearing has to ride on the edge of the panel so you can't chamfer the full height of the material. That's fine for real wood but not so much for laminated chipboard or plywood.
And since we don't have access to an Five axis Thermwood industrial CNC router (wink wink), we had to figure out a way to chamfer the panels right up to the edge using regular chamfering bits and a regular router table.
But we do have a kick-ass CNC to make very precise jigs, so this we came up with yet another CNC-cut guide.
The idea is that each panel that needs chamfering (which can only be done on one side or two parallel sides) has extra blocks attached to it with holes for indexing the position of a guide. This guide is used by the bearing of the chamfering bit so we can chamfer right to the very edge of our panels.
This is the guide in question:
Here's the CAD image of the part seen in Typefighter01's post above. The cuts in green are bridges (material not cut through).
The longer bridges look weird because I added an extra 1/8" of margin between the indexing blocks and the part itself to make sure the router bit wouldn't damage the sides of the panel while cutting the indexing blocks. Laminate can chip rather easily so we're playing it safe.
After the CNC is done, we cut the short bridges to free the panel from the sheet. After flush trimming the small bridges on the long sides, we use the chamfering guide and do the following:
Here's a description of each frame of the animation.
1. Take the part as cut by the CNC
2. Put the chamfering guide on top with the help of the indexed holes and dowels.
3. Chamfer the side which was cut 0.125" longer to allow for a clean cut on all the thickness of the material.
4. Remove the chamfering guide.
5. Cut the bridges of the extra parts on the sides and flush trim for a clean finish.
6. Using the drilling guide we built earlier, drill holes for the dowels.
7. Insert dowels.
(there is indexing holes to chamfer the two sides of the panel but the animation only shows the process for one side in order to keep it simple)
Complicated? Yes. But as Typefighter01 said, it beats messing around with a table saw and wasting a lot of material and a lot of hours for non-repeatable and bad-looking results. We've got computerized tools, we let them do all the work.
RetroArcadePro:
Why don't you just cut the chamfers on a router?
Yvan256:
--- Quote from: RetroArcadePro on March 29, 2015, 05:30:03 pm ---Why don't you just cut the chamfers on a router?
--- End quote ---
That's exactly what we're doing, on a router table. The whole idea is that you can not chamfer the total thickness of a material, you need to leave something for the bearing to ride on. On the chamfering bits there's a gap of about 1/16" of an inch between the blade and the bearing so we must leave an edge of at least 1/8" on the sheet (that means you're only using 1/16" of material to ride the bearing on while chamfering).
In our cabinet, taking the lower back panels as an example, if it were cut the usual way with a 1/8" edge:
It wouldn't matter if the chipboard edge was exposed on the angle inside the cabinet, but it would look bad for the outside angle. You would see laminate, chipboard edge, chipboard edge, laminate. Not to mention the gap in the joint.
Here's a rendering if we had an edge of 1/8":
And here's a rendering with our method:
Our method allows us to chamfer the whole thickness of the material and let us control exactly where the cut ends, no measurements needed so the lengths are as precise as the CNC allows us.
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