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DIY Mouse Spinner - Mount Location?
PL1:
So the 2" flange with the three holes is fixed and the 1-3/8" part spins, right?
How tall is the 1-3/8" part?
My first suggestion is to look at 1" or 1-1/4" schedule 40 PVC pipe cap. (check in the electrical and plumbing sections of your local Lowes/Home Depot/Menards)
This site has Schedule 40 & 80 PVC Pipe Dimensions.
1" PVC pipe O.D. is 1.315" (you may need to ream the inside of the cap to get it to fit)
1-1/4" PVC pipe O.D. is 1.660" and I.D is 1.360" (you can use a cap and a piece of pipe) -- larger diameter knob, less reaming
Depending on how accurate your measurements are, 1-1/2" schedule 80 pipe and a cap might also work. :dunno
To ream the inside of the pipe/cap evenly, use a jig like this one.
Scott
MaxAsh:
--- Quote from: PL1 on August 14, 2014, 01:28:08 pm ---So the 2" flange with the three holes is fixed and the 1-3/8" part spins, right?
--- End quote ---
Oddly enough, not exactly. The entire piece shown in overhead view (first pic) spins the way I have it setup. The flange and the 1-3/8" part is a single unit. When you flip the spindle over (second pic), you see the part that the hard drive discs used to be attached to. Technically speaking, that's the part that spins. But by securing that side down, the opposite is true.
Short version - I turned the static piece that normally is screwed into the hard drive body into the spinning part by securing the original spinning piece. Gives me a nice big spinning pseudo-knob.
What's intriguing, and not true about all hard drive spindles I've extracted, is that the hole you see in the center of the spindle in the 2nd picture is basically the axle for the spindle. On some hard drives, that axle is a solid bar, others it has a hole with threads for one of the cover screws to secure into. Because the axle doubles as a securing post for a cover screw, it's a solid piece that's attached to the base that I'm using as my knob side. This means that, as a single unit, the base and that axle spin together. That's what allows me to flip the spindle over and use it essentially upside down. Because that axle/pin is secured to the part I'm twisting, all I have to do is attach the encoder wheel and boom, done.
That's a wordy explanation, I hope it makes sense. If not, I can maybe post a quick video demonstrating the mechanics.
--- Quote ---How tall is the 1-3/8" part?
--- End quote ---
Depends on the spindle, they can vary, but about 1/4" seems close to consistent. Perfect scenario, I use the holes you see on the flange to attach a knob, either by screwing down through the knob from the top and using a small bolt/nut, or by screwing up into the knob from underneath and thus hiding the attachment method.
PL1:
With that clarification, consider fabricating a 2.25"-2.5" wood knob.
Hollow out a space for the 1-3/8" part and use three screws through the flange to secure the knob. ;D
Scott
MaxAsh:
--- Quote from: PL1 on August 14, 2014, 03:08:26 pm ---With that clarification, consider fabricating a 2.25"-2.5" wood knob.
Hollow out a space for the 1-3/8" part and use three screws through the flange to secure the knob. ;D
--- End quote ---
Easier said than done I'm sure haha. My woodworking tools are relatively rudimentary, I have to borrow a neighbor's router frequently. What's your thinking on that kind of fabrication? Take a chunk of decent wood that's thick enough, use a router to carve out a deep enough circular cavity to cover the 1-3/8" section, then cut an outer circle a little larger than the 2" section? Then sand, etc. Something like that? Not sure I have the acumen for that, but I could give it a try! I can certainly visualize it... creating it will be the challenge for me.
PL1:
Easiest way is probably to use:
-- Drill press
-- Clamps or drill press vise
-- 1-3/8" forstner bit or spade bit
-- 2.25" - 2.5" hole saw (without center/pilot bit installed)
Start with a piece of wood the desired thickness.
Use clamps or a drill press vise (shown below) to secure the wood.
PROTIP: Include a spoiler board underneath the wood.
Use the forstner or spade bit to dig out the ~1/4" deep recess for the 1-3/8" part.
Without moving/un-clamping the wood, change to the hole saw and cut the knob.
Lightly sand the knob/prime/paint.
Check for wiggle when knob is dry-fitted and wobble when it is spun -- shim as needed.
Carefully drill pilot holes and secure the knob to the flange with three screws.
Scott
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