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first time builder with spacing issues

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PL1:

--- Quote from: blitzd on June 05, 2014, 03:44:16 am ---Another Update. Joysticks and Ipac arrived today. Also, I saw a video on youtube (will try to find it again) where a guy built his control panel using wires from Cat5 cable. I've got like 100m of the stuff, so this should work, right? wires are wires, right?

--- End quote ---
Those wires are usually 30AWG IIRC:
 -- Big enough to handle encoder signals
 -- Can be difficult to strip without damaging strands if you don't have a decent pair of wire strippers
 -- Small enough to often make crimps problematic (you may want to solder the wire to the QD and crimp on the insulation)
 -- Ensure you use good mechanical strain relief to avoid breaking strands

+1 on pre-fab daisy-chain grounds, preferably one with insulating boots.


Scott

blitzd:
Thanks for the info. I'll search for cheap premade ground wires. Figured that if Cat5/6 works then it means I have saved money that can go towards something else...

Also, some more good news!

Buttons will be here tomorrow! I put the joysticks together and While they sound really clicky, I'm positive I won't hear them as much once they are installed. I mean my computer is loud as heck when I take the side panel off, but its pretty quiet enclosed. Brainstorming ways to make the joysticks flush with the control panel since I have absolutely no woodworking experience. Here are some pics!


mgb:
cat5 is 24awg and it will work. just keep in mind that its solid (most likely, though stranded can be bought) and crimp connectors are not truly meant for solid core wire.
truthfully you'd save time and possible connection failures by buying an economy jamma harness and hacking off the jamma connector end. Then you'd have proper cable already terminated properly for the buttons and joysticks. some of them come with the premade ground loops too

PL1:

--- Quote from: blitzd on June 07, 2014, 12:18:18 am ---I'll search for cheap premade ground wires. Figured that if Cat5/6 works then it means I have saved money that can go towards something else...

Also, some more good news!

Buttons will be here tomorrow! I put the joysticks together and While they sound really clicky, I'm positive I won't hear them as much once they are installed.

--- End quote ---

Check Paradise Arcade shop here for the daisy-chain grounds. (I really like their 16-pack rainbow pre-crimped wires, too -- YMMV)

Their other product you should consider is the LS-32/zippyy switch upgrade that also works well on the Happ Super/IL Compact sticks that you have -- lower force to actuatie the switch and less noisy.

The only "downside" is when you push the joystick one direction and release it, the centering spring can cause the actuator to overshoot and momentarily actuate the opposite direction.


Scott

blitzd:
Update time! Good news and bad news....

Bad news: The screen on my Quartet game isn't working anymore. it's getting power but it's completely black. I'm googling like crazy but I have no idea what any of the stuff I'm supposed to look for is inside this thing. So I am most likely going the CRT/television route.

Good news is that I have found someone to cut my plexiglass holes for me for almost free (paying in pizza and beer and the first MvC2 match). I'm still a bit torn on the length of the cabinet as it is now so I'm pondering 2 different setups.

staying with the 30" 4 player and cramming extra buttons in. Very few games will require player 3/4 input so most of the space will be for player 1/2 in the middle,

Making a control panel box and cutting out a portion of the cab to fit it in. increasing the size of the cab to 34-36" to add extra space. only problem I have with this setup would be making sure that the panel is tightly secured and I'd need more wood for building the entire thing.

Other good news is that I got 95% of the stuff I want to work in Hyperspin working. Having a problem with Fusion not working in Hyperspin, but it's prolly an easy fix Im not seeing.

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