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I hope I'm in the right place!
Unstupid:
For bargain basement speakers that'll better match your amp check out these: http://www.parts-express.com/visaton-r10sc-4-full-range-speaker-8-ohm--292-597
I've used visaton speakers in my cab builds in the past and they sound good. These ones have a wider range frequency response if 100-13k, run 8 ohm and are rated at 20watt (30max).
EMDB:
--- Quote from: PwnFx on February 26, 2014, 07:45:18 pm ---So here's a few questions that I still have:
1. Is there a better solution for the control setup that stays close to the price range of $65 USD? Something that operates as a keyboard rather than gamepad.
2. The speakers suggested by JDFan (http://www.amazon.com/Power-Acoustik-XPS-104-Midbass-Midrange/dp/B000AQ8OFC/ref=sr_1_63?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1393444004&sr=1-63&keywords=car+speakers) - They're rated for 60w RMS each as I understand from the manufacture website, which exceeds the overall 40w rms rating for the amplifier (2x20 RMS), I'm not too audio savvy, so I really don't know the whole amp vs. speaker rms rating ordeal, but couldn't that be problematic?
3. What are some common dimensions for the marquee glass?
4. When using T-Molding, where do I buy from? Approximately how much will be needed? What router bit do I buy? I'll most likely be using 3/4" plywood.
5. For "clone cutting" the side panels when I get down to routing them, what kind of bit do I need for that? (I don't own a router, never used one yet, sorry if this is common knowledge stuff).
6. Am I missing any important steps?
7. What is the common height of an arcade machine? My sketch sits at 70" high, should I add or remove any height?
Thank you so much guys, you guys are a huge help!
--- End quote ---
I see the BYOAC virus already got you and made you look into t-molding, marquees and keyboard encoders ::)
Drnick:
--- Quote from: PwnFx on February 26, 2014, 07:45:18 pm ---So here's a few questions that I still have:
1. Is there a better solution for the control setup that stays close to the price range of $65 USD? Something that operates as a keyboard rather than gamepad.
2. The speakers suggested by JDFan (http://www.amazon.com/Power-Acoustik-XPS-104-Midbass-Midrange/dp/B000AQ8OFC/ref=sr_1_63?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1393444004&sr=1-63&keywords=car+speakers) - They're rated for 60w RMS each as I understand from the manufacture website, which exceeds the overall 40w rms rating for the amplifier (2x20 RMS), I'm not too audio savvy, so I really don't know the whole amp vs. speaker rms rating ordeal, but couldn't that be problematic?
3. What are some common dimensions for the marquee glass?
4. When using T-Molding, where do I buy from? Approximately how much will be needed? What router bit do I buy? I'll most likely be using 3/4" plywood.
5. For "clone cutting" the side panels when I get down to routing them, what kind of bit do I need for that? (I don't own a router, never used one yet, sorry if this is common knowledge stuff).
6. Am I missing any important steps?
7. What is the common height of an arcade machine? My sketch sits at 70" high, should I add or remove any height?
Thank you so much guys, you guys are a huge help!
--- End quote ---
1) Kade controller possibly, but I can't be sure as you would have to source the joysticks and buttons separately http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,128745.msg1316035.html#msg1316035
2) Yes and no, somewhere should be a nominal value, the 60RMS is peak. Most likely they would be fine but I see someone else has given a closer match to amp
3) this varies from machine to machine to machine, It wants to look in proportion to the rest of the machine though
4) Tmolding.com They do plenty of 3/4" Tmolding also do the router bit, just check you get the right size for the barb on the tmolding you use
5) Pattern bit at least 3/4" in length (They do them with top and bottom mounted bearings, the bearing runs along the piece you want to clone)
6) I don't see anything you have overlooked yet. Have you got Templates for your joystick and buttons from Slagcoin yet?
7) Once again varies, anywhere between 30 and 40, I still vote for around 36" :laugh2:
PwnFx:
--- Quote from: EMDB on February 27, 2014, 05:00:47 am ---I see the BYOAC virus already got you and made you look into t-molding, marquees and keyboard encoders ::)
--- End quote ---
Yes, indeed!
--- Quote from: Unstupid on February 27, 2014, 03:24:32 am ---For bargain basement speakers that'll better match your amp check out these: http://www.parts-express.com/visaton-r10sc-4-full-range-speaker-8-ohm--292-597
I've used visaton speakers in my cab builds in the past and they sound good. These ones have a wider range frequency response if 100-13k, run 8 ohm and are rated at 20watt (30max).
--- End quote ---
Thank you, shipping brings a set of two to be over $30, which is a bit over budget, it's so hard to get all of the proper parts within a budget, I really need to get some more money to fund this project!
--- Quote from: Drnick on February 27, 2014, 08:05:58 am ---1) Kade controller possibly, but I can't be sure as you would have to source the joysticks and buttons separately http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,128745.msg1316035.html#msg1316035
2) Yes and no, somewhere should be a nominal value, the 60RMS is peak. Most likely they would be fine but I see someone else has given a closer match to amp
3) this varies from machine to machine to machine, It wants to look in proportion to the rest of the machine though
4) Tmolding.com They do plenty of 3/4" Tmolding also do the router bit, just check you get the right size for the barb on the tmolding you use
5) Pattern bit at least 3/4" in length (They do them with top and bottom mounted bearings, the bearing runs along the piece you want to clone)
6) I don't see anything you have overlooked yet. Have you got Templates for your joystick and buttons from Slagcoin yet?
7) Once again varies, anywhere between 30 and 40, I still vote for around 36" :laugh2:
--- End quote ---
1. Kade seems to only offer a single player solution, their two player 6 button each setup appears to require two of their chips. Or did I read wrong?
2. What does peak mean? I really don't know very much about audio equipment, sorry for my lack of knowledge.
3. Okay, I was just trying to get a rough size to try and get an idea of the price for the piece of glass.
4. What do you mean "the right size for the barb"?
5. Thank you. :)
6. I have not, I'm having a look now as I type this out, thank you very much. I was curious as to how to figure out the placement of those, very useful tip!
7. I've settled on 36" for the control panel, but I mean the overall height of the entire machine.
Thank you guys :)
DeLuSioNal29:
You may want to re-consider and not use "Zippy" brand switches. They are loud as heck, and with your open end design, will be even louder. However, you could always use them for now and upgrade them in the future to something quieter such as the microleaf switches over at GroovyGameGear.com : http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=71&products_id=309
As far as PC speakers go: I have mine mounted with the casing and everything right over my speaker ports. Then I have a speaker grill covering the holes. The key is to find 2.1 speakers that have a separate "controller" for the volume, so that you can mount it on under the control panel. (no de-casing needed!) :applaud:
http://www.amazon.com/Cyber-Acoustics-Computer-Speakers-CA-3090/dp/B00006B9W1/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1393543509&sr=8-7&keywords=2.1+speakers
DeLuSioNaL29
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