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Running LED from U-HID? (LED basics)
PL1:
--- Quote from: edgeofblade on January 22, 2014, 08:35:54 am ---So, is a common anode led designed to work with U-Hid? Is common anode considered not standard?
--- End quote ---
The U-HID is NOT what you need for your application, based on these quotes from the U-HID LED page.
--- Quote ---Up to 16 connections can be defined as PC-Controlled LEDs.
--- End quote ---
That's only 5 RGB LEDs + 1 leftover channel -- you'd need 17 U-HIDs (vs. 5 PacLED64s) to handle 100 RGB LEDs. :o :dizzy:
--- Quote ---The limit of 16 LEDs applies to the board to stay within USB specificatons on current draw (500mA).
--- End quote ---
The UHID has no connector allowing you to supplement the USB power. (BTW, it would be limited to 100mA if it was plugged into an un-powered hub. :blah: )
You can run 12v LEDs off a 5v supply like this and only draw a fraction of the current, but . . .
--- Quote ---LEDs are connected between the U-HID pin and ground.
--- End quote ---
. . . the polarity is opposite of the RGB LEDs that are sold by Ultimarc/GGG/Paradise Arcade.
IMHO dedicated LED controllers are the only logical choice for lighting this project due to the quantity of channels, current draw, and polarity of easily-installable RGB LED assemblies. (Not sure if you can run 5 PacLEDs on one system, though. :dunno)
Common anode is standard for the LED controllers commonly used in the arcade building community. (LED-Wiz, PacLED64, etc.)
Any RGB LEDs you get from Ultimarc, Groovy Game Gear, or Paradise Arcade (arcade-hobbyist vendors) will be common anode.
If you look at Radio Shack, DigiKey, or e-Bay (non arcade-hobbyist vendors) you might end up with either.
Scott
edgeofblade:
--- Quote from: PL1 on January 22, 2014, 12:28:08 pm ---...
IMHO dedicated LED controllers are the only logical choice for lighting this project due to the quantity of channels, current draw, and polarity of easily-installable RGB LED assemblies. (Not sure if you can run 5 PacLEDs on one system, though. :dunno)
Common anode is standard for the LED controllers commonly used in the arcade building community. (LED-Wiz, PacLED64, etc.)
Any RGB LEDs you get from Ultimarc, Groovy Game Gear, or Paradise Arcade (arcade-hobbyist vendors) will be common anode.
If you look at Radio Shack, DigiKey, or e-Bay (non arcade-hobbyist vendors) you might end up with either.
Scott
--- End quote ---
Thanks for the feedback. I wasn't seriously considering running off of U-HID for this project. This was more of an opportunity to get several parts and start experimenting and learning the ropes. If I can't power these LEDs with this board, that's more like a relatively cheap lesson learned, as opposed to a fortune sunk in the wrong parts.
Instead of running with five PacLED64s, I'm considering two strands of fifty WS2811 addressable LEDs and two NanoLED boards. With the LEDs, it would still cost less than two of the PacLED64 boards and be a hell of a lot less trouble to wire. Might have to modify the buttons, but I'm confident I can get that to work.
Please, keep poking holes. I love having lots of cooks in the kitchen, especially when I'm new and assimilating a lot of info. :-)
EDIT: Just poked a hole of my own! Those NanoLED controllers drive 60 channels for 20 RGBs each, not 60 (I rounded down to 50 for simple parity.) Still substantially cheaper to take that route.
PL1:
Not sure if you can address 5 Nano-LED boards on one system based on this pic -- you should ask Andy.
Also look into the Kaimana from Paradise Arcade Shop -- not sure about the specs on it, though. :dunno
Scott
pbj:
Turns out these guys are rattling the tin cup in Houston, trying to raise funds for their "nerd culture" bar.
::)
https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/warlocks-games-and-beer
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