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New Guy with Questions
drventure:
--- Quote from: EMDB on January 01, 2014, 03:41:19 pm ---
--- Quote from: Darkjudge1 on January 01, 2014, 03:07:29 pm ---Scott: Thanks for the link. I had come to similar conclusions. I'm tempted just to leave it with the joysticks.
Speaking of, anyone here use the Magstick plus? Any thoughts on that versus a traditional 4/8 way restrictor?
--- End quote ---
If you want to play 4 and 8 way games together it's undoable to quickly switch the restrictor plate from the inside of a control panel. Switching the magstick plus from the top is very easy. You must like the non-micro switch stick though. I do. But after playing a while I got annoyed determining which setting to select for every individual game. Especially when having guests over. So I switched to the (also micro switch-less) U360 which is switched automatically from software depending on the selected game...
--- End quote ---
EMDB's right about the U360. They're more expensive, but unless you're +very+ concerned about truly authentic feel, they're just sooo damn convenient that they are tough to beat in my book. I used 2 magsticks and 2 u360s for my 4p panel, I like the feel of the magsticks fine, but the u360s are just way more flexible, while still feeling perfectly acceptable to me. but I'm no authenticity stickler.
Darkjudge1:
Thanks all for the advice.You've definitely given me some food for thought.
Paige: So, if it came down to the choice of CRT vs LCD, sounds like the CRT would be the winner, but tradeoff would be a smaller screen size. Okay, fair enough.
Unstupid: Ah, thank you. That's a good visual. Though I'd imagine part of that screen gets cut off vertically.
MGB: Put it this way: I spent about $50 on the icade and didn't like it because the microswitches were just so stinking LOUD and clicky. and the buttons were a little stiff. But the x-arcade stick isn't bad. It's close, but there's a minor annoyance of hearing the buttons. I'm getting the feeling that leaf switches were more common with the arcades I played in as I don't remember either of those issues. (For reference, my favorite games were made from about 1979-1993. (And as of late, a lot of those are Williams games.) That's not to say I'm entirely opposed to a microswitch, but something as quiet or quieter than the x-arcade solo. (I can already see Paige laughing at the classless noob over here. :D) I am of the opinion that joysticks should not make much noise if any.. (Yeah... don't even get me started on the Neo Geo X. They sound worse than the iCade.)
Ark: I considered that, but I think it'd be just a tad awkward.
Drventure: Yeah, I looked at those. I'll take a second look.
EMDB:
--- Quote from: mgb on January 02, 2014, 03:19:37 pm ---
--- Quote from: EMDB on January 01, 2014, 03:41:19 pm ---
--- Quote from: Darkjudge1 on January 01, 2014, 03:07:29 pm ---Scott: Thanks for the link. I had come to similar conclusions. I'm tempted just to leave it with the joysticks.
Speaking of, anyone here use the Magstick plus? Any thoughts on that versus a traditional 4/8 way restrictor?
--- End quote ---
If you want to play 4 and 8 way games together it's undoable to quickly switch the restrictor plate from the inside of a control panel. Switching the magstick plus from the top is very easy. You must like the non-micro switch stick though. I do. But after playing a while I got annoyed determining which setting to select for every individual game. Especially when having guests over. So I switched to the (also micro switch-less) U360 which is switched automatically from software depending on the selected game...
--- End quote ---
Not sure if I missed something here but the mag stick plus does use a conventional restricter. It's just that it uses a square restrictor that can be turned for blocking diagonals.
It is not a micro switch less stick though. The magnet part is only for centering rather than using a spring
--- End quote ---
You are of course right about the MagStick(Plus) having micro-switches. I was mixing my U360 and MagStick Plus experiences. The being able to switch 4/8-way from the top advantage still stands though ;-)
paigeoliver:
Most Japanese stuff actually had microswitches all the way back in the 1970s. Nintendo liked to use leaf switch buttons to activate microswitches. The general transition to microswitch based controls started around 1988 and was complete around 1992.
The arcade was too loud back in the old days to hear the clicking for the most part.
--- Quote from: Darkjudge1 on January 03, 2014, 01:35:18 am ---Thanks all for the advice.You've definitely given me some food for thought.
Paige: So, if it came down to the choice of CRT vs LCD, sounds like the CRT would be the winner, but tradeoff would be a smaller screen size. Okay, fair enough.
Unstupid: Ah, thank you. That's a good visual. Though I'd imagine part of that screen gets cut off vertically.
MGB: Put it this way: I spent about $50 on the icade and didn't like it because the microswitches were just so stinking LOUD and clicky. and the buttons were a little stiff. But the x-arcade stick isn't bad. It's close, but there's a minor annoyance of hearing the buttons. I'm getting the feeling that leaf switches were more common with the arcades I played in as I don't remember either of those issues. (For reference, my favorite games were made from about 1979-1993. (And as of late, a lot of those are Williams games.) That's not to say I'm entirely opposed to a microswitch, but something as quiet or quieter than the x-arcade solo. (I can already see Paige laughing at the classless noob over here. :D) I am of the opinion that joysticks should not make much noise if any.. (Yeah... don't even get me started on the Neo Geo X. They sound worse than the iCade.)
Ark: I considered that, but I think it'd be just a tad awkward.
Drventure: Yeah, I looked at those. I'll take a second look.
--- End quote ---
dcninja:
find a tube tv on craigslist. find an old cab without a board or working monitor in it from an arcade wholesaler or something. Way cheaper. no shipping, less money so you have more money to spend on making her look pretty and the pc and controls. you can build complete cabs for less than $500 by using a former arcade cab... plus the idea that it was a real arcade is way better than some sterile box that someone makes to cash in on our hobby. just my opinion.
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