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Atari Yolk 14 tooth gear Repoductions
SammyWI:
RandyT: Out of curiosity have you done any 3d printing with some of the newer materials like nylon or PET? I have pretty much moved on from ABS to these two materials. PET in particular has some nice properties including very low shrinkage which is great for parts that want to warp.
RandyT:
No, I haven't. But I probably will at some point. Nylon can be a little problematic, due to the fact that it absorbs moisture so readily, which can cause "popping" at the nozzle. And then the much higher extrude temperatures. I will probably give PET a go before nylon, but the crystalline nature of the material makes me wonder whether it would be too brittle. I was able to take a large chunk of the ABS gear I had to cut from the hub, and flatten it without it breaking. Not sure if PET would be able to do the same thing. What have your experiences with this material been like for durability?
SammyWI:
The PET I use is T-Glase from Taulman. I've found it to be stronger than ABS with better layer bonding. Brittleness is harder to say because ABS will come apart at the layers long before PET will. For pure raw material ABS is probably less brittle than PET but once printed PET has been stronger and more durable than ABS for me. PET is pretty much my go to material now and I wish I had it when I first started 3d printing.
Nylon can be hard to work with. I have dried mine out in the oven and later I bought a cheap food dehydrator - then store in a bag with desiccant (crystal cat litter). I use an all metal hotend now that can hit the higher nylon temps safely. Getting nylon to stick to the bed is lots of fun too. I use Garolite CE and it sticks too well sometimes! But a benefit is that nylon on Garolite doesn't require a heated bed. Nylon's flexibility can be good or bad. I find it mostly bad because I usually want rigid parts.
34k:
I have 25-30 games so far this weekend and the gear is performing flawlessly so far.
While I had the yoke apart I performed a full service on it.
* brand new 5k pots for horizontal and vertical
* a full clean on all gears
* Nyogel applied to all meshing and moving parts
* new switches for triggers and thumb buttonsSo this thing is pretty close to as good as it gets.
Play with the new gear is as smooth as butter. Tracking and accuracy feels spot on and tight.
I will pull the version C with the gear on the original hub and see if there are any signs of stress. Next I will put in the fully printed version B and see how that one does and report back when I have some more play time in.
Slippyblade:
--- Quote from: 34k on January 20, 2014, 07:14:30 pm ---Play with the new gear is as smooth as butter. Tracking and accuracy feels spot on and tight.
I will pull the version C with the gear on the original hub and see if there are any signs of stress. Next I will put in the fully printed version B and see how that one does and report back when I have some more play time in.
--- End quote ---
I love watching the development of this stuff. I honestly see the wide adoption of 3D printing as a society changer. Sure cost is prohibitive right now, but look at where photo quality printing was 30 yrs ago compared to today. Heck, with some printers anymore is cheaper to toss the whole thing and buy a new model than to replace the cartridges. Can you imagine... I need a part - I go online and download a printfile and fire up the 'ole 3D printer and poof, new part.
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