Main > Main Forum
How to (almost) play CSI without spending big bucks
PL1:
Instead of spending thousands of dollars on a high tech fingerprint fume hood like this:
You can (almost) do the same thing with a mini model like this:
If you're confused by this, let me start from the top.
I've been printing inserts for translucent buttons, but sometimes they get turned the wrong way.
After reading this at GGG, I figured I'd try the trick that Randy recommends.
--- Quote ---For permanent installation a small drop of GEL superglue can be placed on the back of the PGI at the point where it meets the inside wall of the plunger.
--- End quote ---
Well, it turns out I used a little bit more gel superglue -- 8 really tiny spots around the diffuser.
Wanting to see how well it came out, I assembled the buttons and everything looked great.
The next morning, I lit them up to see how well it worked and they looked like :censored:. :dizzy:
Taking the buttons apart, it became obvious that the superglue did exactly what it does in the fume hood on CSI, bonding with the fingerprint oils -- it built up quite a thick layer.
Lessons learned:
1. Use the least amount of superglue possible.
2. Let it cure fully before assembling the buttons.
Hopefully this helps someone dodge the bullet. :embarassed:
Scott
redbeard30:
There's a glue available at most hobby shops that's made for glueing clear plastics. I believe its for car and airplane models, specifically for glueing windshields and cockpit glass. Its formulated to not fog the clear plastic parts. Might be a better option. Its not instant set though. Zap formula 560 is one brand, but upon further investigating in model building forums, it seems these special canopy glues are nothing more than overpriced Elmer's glue. I guess Elmer s brand has the standard white glue that dries white, and another that dries clear. It however does not create as strong of a bond as super glue but I would suspect would be adequate for the purpose posted above.
redbeard30:
You may be able to save the LEDs. Nail polish remover with acetone dissolves super glue. You might be able to use a q-tip and clean the LEDs off. It might still leave a fog behind, but its worth a try!
PL1:
Already managed to clean all the sockets, bodies and springs with just isopropyl alcohol + Q-Tip.
Also finished cleaning one plunger -- the rest should come out OK. ;D
We'll see if the LEDs/diffusers clean up. :dunno
Bad news: The lens covers are also somewhat fogged. :badmood:
Good news: I bought spare LEDs and lens covers/diffusers in my last order from Bryan. 8)
Scott
WindDrake:
Until superglue is fully cured, it lets off some byproducts that are absolutely terrible for plastics. I learned that building models years ago. Yuck.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
Go to full version