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How hot do your solenoids get? With Video
lilshawn:
i'm wondering if those snubber diodes are enough... the 1n4001 is only 35 volts RMS reverse voltage. don't forget you are going to have a huge surge of voltage (100's of volts for a few microseconds) from the solenoid as the magnetic field collapses. but, without an o'scope, it would be difficult to see what's really going on.
if you have access to some 1N4004's or higher, maybe give them a try. I would consider a 4004 the bare minimum for a solenoid which is what i use when replacing them in pinballs. (280 volts RMS reverse) it can't hurt things in your circuit. it's just for that spike from the solenoid when the magnetic field collapses.
other than that, the circuit looks good to me.
Perhaps there is a big droop in the power supply when the solenoid fires that is screwing things up. Your power supply may not be pushing the voltage back up to 24 volts quickly enough. a linear power supply doesn't have much of this issue, but a switchmode supply needs a large power cap on the output (6000 or 10,000uF) to smooth out that big power sag.
ed12:
yes jump up to 4004's for the diodes..
but i see no snubber in the fet circuit ?
.1/100v is nessary to stop hyestera..
18ms is rather long for and coil,that is rapit fire
ed
charlieram:
--- Quote from: ed12 on August 24, 2013, 12:05:55 pm ---yes jump up to 4004's for the diodes..
--- Quote ---but i see no snubber in the fet circuit ?
.1/100v is nessary to stop hyestera..
--- End quote ---
Do you mean a diode across the 4.7K resistor? I'm not sure what you mean
--- Quote ---18ms is rather long for and coil,that is rapit fire
--- End quote ---
18ms is the smallest value I can use in mame hooker otherwise the coil doesn't fire and Andy's firmware for the aimtraks fires up to 50ms if I understand it correctly
--- End quote ---
Fursphere:
--- Quote from: lilshawn on August 22, 2013, 09:03:12 pm ---
--- Quote from: Fursphere on August 22, 2013, 07:14:21 pm ---So.. I've had solenoid pump black smoke out of my pinball machines. If I wasn't present I'm curious if it would have caught fire.
--- End quote ---
a stock system, no. It will melt and smell nasty but it shouldn't catch fire.
on a rigged system (IE over fused) yes, it's very much a possibility. not to mention you risk burning a hole clean through your driver board as the FET burns up and takes out ALL your wiring with it.
lesson kids: if it says 3 amp fuse. IT'S A 3 AMP FUSE ONLY! not a 4 amp, not a 10 amp, not a 30 amp, and ESPECIALLY not tinfoil. :angry:
--- End quote ---
It wasn't over fused. It was a failed transistor on the driver board - aftermarket Ni Wumpf CPU and Driver board in a Gottlieb sys80 Black Hole. The knocker coil just went up and lightly burned the inside of the cabinet.
Stock fused in all locations. Ground mods done. It just happens sometimes.
charlieram:
I posted this in the Automated projects forum but it is also relevant to this post..
Maybe a video will explain things a bit better
This is the recoil action controlled by Mame Hooker using the outputs broadcast by mame when playing Terminator 2, using this method means that when the energy runs low, the solenoid pulses slow down too and for other games with the outputs hooked up it will also stop firing if you run out of ammo and need to reload.
Don't mind the 2 gun sights, I havn't properly calibrated yet and wont do until its all back in my cabinet. The 'clacking' you can hear is the solenoid firing, After playing this game for about 10-15 minutes the gun feels warm where the solenoid is located. I took the gun case apart to check the temperature of the solenoid and while I can hold it it is uncomfortably hot. Would you say it is down to the rate of fire or something in my circuit?
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