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About to buy 1943, questions about jamma
ionbasa:
Hello,
I am about to buy a Capcom Mideway 1943 board. This will be my first arcade project as I am fairly new.
I had a question about wiring power to a Jamma innterface.
First I will be using a switching power supply, So the 1943 board should receive +5v on pins: 3,4,C,D . Followed by -5v on pins: 5, E, +12V on 6, F and finnaly logical ground on pins: 1,2,A,B.
Do all the ground pins have to go to the ground on the power supply?
Also for Midway 1943 does the board output standard 15 Khz Horizontal sync?
Thanks for taking the time to help a new player.
Nephasth:
--- Quote from: ionbasa on July 31, 2013, 10:20:33 pm ---Do all the ground pins have to go to the ground on the power supply?
--- End quote ---
1, 2, A, and B do. 27, 28, E and F are used for switch grounds (buttons, joysticks, coin switches, etc.). 14 is the Video Signal Ground and should go to the signal header on the monitor.
--- Quote from: ionbasa on July 31, 2013, 10:20:33 pm ---Also for Midway 1943 does the board output standard 15 Khz Horizontal sync?
--- End quote ---
Standard 15Khz, yes.
ionbasa:
Thanks,
So it looks like I have my basics covered then!
When I go but the board is there anything I should watch out for? Burnt pins?
Is there any way to identify if the board is genuine or a copy?
I just want to make sure that I get everything right for my first cab. (I plan to build one)
CraftyMech:
1943 doesn't use -5v, so you don't have to worry about that connection.
An original Capcom 1943 is a two board "stack" (connected by ribbon cables), and will have "Capcom" printed on both boards. The ROM chips will also have labels with "Capcom" & "BM" (Battle of Midway) printed on them.
Great project idea, are you planning on replicating a 1943 cab complete with side art and control panel?
One of my favorite games!
ionbasa:
Yes I do plan on making new cabinet entirely from scratch. I was able to find some AutoCAD files with all the dimensions.
So far from the pictures the seller has given me, it is a dual pcb board connected together with ribbon cables.
I plan on going and checking out the board in person and also hopefully buying it this weekend / next work week (its an hour drive from where I live.)
The only problem I am having though is finding a CRT monitor that accepts composite negative sync, all the reasonably priced ones only accept separate h-sync and v-sync, so ill probably end up using a JROK converter for component output and then using a component---> VGA cable to hook up to a Samsung Syncmaster CRT.
Hopefully the Syncmaster accepts the component input( it's usually hit or miss).
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