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A lot of noob questions
Sig00:
Where would my build be without this community? In a pile of sawdust and various parts. XD But here's a failboat of a question for you (seriously, probably the stupidest question ever, but here goes), to get the power to the LED's I would literally just strip down the end of my wire, wrap it around the red or yellow depending on the voltage needed and then attach it to my button? I'm sorry, I'm probably just over thinking this right now... o.o
PL1:
For LEDs that are on all the time, just strip the red (5v) or yellow (12v) wire on the molex and connect that wire to the red wire in this photo using either a terminal block/strip or a butt splice.
Then strip one of the black (ground) wires on the molex and connect it to the black wire in the photo.
Operating Voltage (5v or 12v on molex)
|
|___________ Daisy chain for voltage
| | | | |
L L L L L LEDs
|__|__|__|__| Daisy chain for ground
|
|
Ground (on molex)
That completes a path from the operating voltage source through the LEDs to ground.
Terminal blocks/strips
Butt splices
Scott
a1pharm:
Not sure if this is too late:
Check out groovygamegear.com for LED buttons, they are what I used in my cab, and I am thrilled. They run on 5v or 12v, the brightness is actually nearly identical with either voltage, so using 5v will allow the LEDs to last longer. Only use 5v for white buttons. It's easy to wire the LEDs to your PSU (don't buy LEDwiz/blinky if you only want on/off functionality for your LEDs).
They also sell wire harnesses for LEDs and for switches.
They also sell an alternative to Ipacs, it's called KeyWiz. It costs less than the Ipacs, and has at least the same functionality. I used it in my cab (the PS2 version, not the usb version), and it works great.
As for using a minipac for your trackball and spinner: your trackball may already have a USB interface, if it does, you can easily splice in the spinner to the same interface and avoid buying something you don't need.
As for your audio: check out garage sales and craigslist for a name brand computer speaker setup, it may cost less than your car speaker solution. Also, computer speakers are usually engineered for fine high frequency tones, which are heavily utilized by arcade games, and may sound better than car speakers (which value 1khz midrange frequencies - in order to replicate vocals correctly).
Be sure if you are going to put artwork on your CP, that you design it BEFORE you do any cutting/drilling, as the art will 100% dictate how everything will fit together.
Great questions, good luck on your build
Cheers!
:cheers:
CoryBee:
For speakers I go to any random thrift shop\store. I get 15" - 19" LCD monitors for around $15 and my computer speakers for $3 - $4.
JOHN HOWARD:
Thanks for this thread, picked up some nice tips and tricks
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