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Electrical Issues: Hatch Lift - Battletech Pod - Tail Gate Lift Motor

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kahlid74:

--- Quote from: HaRuMaN on February 14, 2013, 08:49:01 am ---Your problem here is torque.  Try pushing open a heavy door near the hinges vs. near the outer edge to see what I mean.

--- End quote ---

That makes sense.  Looking at some pictures of liftgates in cars they are a bit away from the hinges.  If it was a straight box I would be able to move the hingers to the front but because of the weird angles in the front I can't do that.

I took off the side door completely and with one 30Lbs force strut it works exactly as expected.  No slamming, no fast open, just fluid opening like a tailgate.  I'm rolling some electrical right now for a test run and then I'll post a video.

Now I just need to figure out what I'm going to do with the side door.

kahlid74:
SO now I have electrical issues.  While I'm still rocking and rollign on using Arduino to control the up down I wanted to use a DPDT switch to just see how it would work.  Long story short, I can't get it to work.  it still works if I wire the motor regular or reverse polarity to the power supply but when I go through the DPDT switch it's like it gets grounded and the PS turns off and won't come back until I unplug, let sit for 20 secs and then replug.  Side note, the Clutch is plugged directly into the power supply since I don't think you're suppose to reverse polarity on the clutch right?

This is how I have the DPDT wired:


Any ideas?

PL1:
Looks like the wiring is correct for reversing polarity.

I'm assuming that the switch is:

1. Non-illuminated
2. Momentary-Off-Momentary DPDT switch
3. Rated for the required amperage and voltage
4. The power supply +/- is connected to 1/2 and the motor is connected to 1a/2a or vice-versa.

The only other thing I can think of is to ohms check the switch separate from the wiring.

1a 2a
 1   2
1b 2b

Switch Centered
Connect one lead to 1, connect other lead to 1a, 1b, 2, 2a, and 2b.  All should read open.

Connect one lead to 2, connect other lead to 1, 1a, 1b, 2a, and 2b.  All should read open.

Switch Up
Connect one lead to 1, connect other lead to 1a.  It should read continuity.
Connect one lead to 1, connect other lead to 1b, 2, 2a, and 2b.  All should read open.

Connect one lead to 2, connect other lead to 2a.  It should read continuity.
Connect one lead to 2, connect other lead to 1, 1a, 1b, and 2b.  All should read open.

Switch Down
Connect one lead to 1, connect other lead to 1b.  It should read continuity.
Connect one lead to 1, connect other lead to 1a, 2, 2a, and 2b.  All should read open.

Connect one lead to 2, connect other lead to 2b.  It should read continuity.
Connect one lead to 2, connect other lead to 1, 1a, 1b, and 2a.  All should read open.


Scott

BadMouth:
The switch looks wired correctly to me.
Is it rated for the amount of current you're drawing?

You wouldn't reverse polarity on the clutch, but I'd see if the switch works without the clutch hooked up as part of the troubleshooting.

Might be time to break out the relays and get a little more complicated.

kahlid74:
Thanks for the replies guys.  The DPDT is rated for 12V at 20 AMPS so I know we're good to go on that front.  The clutch is DISCONNECTED which is where I'm guessing this is breaking down.  When I power on the PS I hear the clutch activate but the motor obviously doesn't turn on.  I'm thinking of trying the motor with the clutch connected to the UP switch and seeing if it works.  If it does, how do I wire the clutch into the DPDT while preventing it from ever reversing polarity?

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