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Quick release restrictor plate?
notbillcosby:
Man oh man. I'm having a pretty awful time understanding these concepts... To the point where I don't even know which part to ask you to clarify. Maybe I need to see the diagram on a bigger screen than my iPod and think it through again. Forgive me for being dense!
PL1:
Take two.
Side under-the-panel cutaway view--joystick handle not shown.
Diagram resized for easier viewing.
Added actuator and countersink on board for restrictor plate screw heads and actuator. (Oops, forgot to include hole in metal to match restrictor plate.)
Disclaimer: It's definitely NOT drawn to scale. Way too compressed horizontally.
Not shown: Tee nuts or screw-in insert that the wing nuts connect to.
The standard GGG installation method uses a Happ Super (black), the restrictor plate (orange), and two screws. (gray)
Add a metal plate (green) with a hole for the joystick actuator to the restrictor plate. (orange)
Grind the restrictor plate screw threads that stick out past the plate so that the resulting pin is the same diameter as the holes in the Super's base.
Either add a board (red) or a bend in the metal for reinforcement. Countersink board to allow clearance for restrictor plate screw heads and joystick actuator.
Wingnuts and bolts (blue) can have some play for easy connection/disconnection.
The critical part of this is grinding the screw threads into a pin. It has to be exact.
Scott
notbillcosby:
I think I get it. This would be doing, more or less, the same thing as what I was talking about earlier with running bolts in through the top of the joystick's mounting panel/block part. Right? Just the metal plate you talk about would extend the "wingspan" on the restrictor enough that the mounting bolts could be attached to the underside of the controller panel rather than through the body of the joystick. Yes?
if so, that might be a little cramped. I'm working inside an X-Arcade Dual Joystick, and space is limited!
PL1:
--- Quote from: notbillcosby on May 29, 2012, 01:40:28 am ---I think I get it. This would be doing, more or less, the same thing as what I was talking about earlier with running bolts in through the top of the joystick's mounting panel/block part. Right? Just the metal plate you talk about would extend the "wingspan" on the restrictor enough that the mounting bolts could be attached to the underside of the controller panel rather than through the body of the joystick. Yes?
if so, that might be a little cramped. I'm working inside an X-Arcade Dual Joystick, and space is limited!
--- End quote ---
You've got the idea.
Super space saver version.
Lose the wood (red) use metal with a wide low U-shaped profile. If you can't find anything suitable at the hardware store, use this tool to bend sheet metal into the basic shape shown in photo.
Alternate bending method -- clamp center of metal piece tightly between two 2x4s and bend against a flat section of concrete.
Instead of the wing nuts, use something like this. It's shaped like a tee nut with threads on the inside, and you tighten it with an allen wrench.
Scott
notbillcosby:
If I lose the wingnuts, i lose my quick release! i don't want to need tools to move this plate out of the way. What's the perk to this method over running bolts through the joystick, just the fact that i wouldn't be modifying the stick?
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