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HAPP Analog pedals to A-pac from ultimarc

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PL1:

--- Quote from: mytymaus007 on May 26, 2012, 09:53:41 am ---1. does it matter on the potentiometer what the tabs are connectted to basically from diagram the 1st tab and the last tab are both hooked to the ground from 1stplayer to 2nd player on diagram so from diagram im not sure which is the ground. Still need to get meter to read but its a brand new pedal from HAPP.

--- End quote ---

If the first and last tabs on a pot are hooked to ground, it will never work.  It will only read ground.

Also, on the encoder the inputs aren't ground, they are switched "on" when ground is connected, completing the circuit and allowing current to flow. In plumbing terms, inputs are faucets, ground is the drain.  Hook your drains together(daisy chain ground), no problem.  Hook your faucets together and you won't be able to choose between hot and cold water.

Sorry if my earlier posts were unclear.

Take 2: Pot theory -- from the top.

Looking at the diagram below, You see the zig-zag (resistor) and an arrow (wiper).

As you turn the pot, the wiper moves up and down the resistor.

When it moves up, there are less zig-zags (lower resistance) between 1 and 2, and more zig-zags (higher resistance) between 2 and 3.

The resistance from 1 to 3 is constant, no matter where the wiper is at.
[/theory]

Connect pot tab 1 wire to 1down. Your 1st picture, upper right - 6th terminal from the right.

Connect pot tab 2 wire to 1up. Your 1st picture, upper right - 5th terminal from the right.

Connect pot tab 3 wire to ground. Your 1st picture, upper right - last terminal on right.


If this works, but it is backward, swap the wires for 1 and 3.


Scott

P.S. Based on the wire colors in your picture 2, I'd guess that red is 1, green is 2, and black is 3. Ignore this guess if you can see which tab they are actually connected to.

AndyWarne:
Rather than check resistance its better to use the meter to test voltage. The voltage on the center contact of each pot (the yellow wires in the picture) should vary between 0 and 5 volts when the pot is turned.

As mentioned, it shoudl show up as 2 game controller devices, player 1 and 2.

Andy

PL1:
Thanks for the info, Andy.

I just suggested the resistance check to verify that he knew for sure which wires were on 1 and 3.

Once he knows that, your method is best.


Scott

mytymaus007:

--- Quote from: PL1 on May 26, 2012, 12:11:50 pm ---
--- Quote from: mytymaus007 on May 26, 2012, 09:53:41 am ---1. does it matter on the potentiometer what the tabs are connectted to basically from diagram the 1st tab and the last tab are both hooked to the ground from 1stplayer to 2nd player on diagram so from diagram im not sure which is the ground. Still need to get meter to read but its a brand new pedal from HAPP.

--- End quote ---

If the first and last tabs on a pot are hooked to ground, it will never work.  It will only read ground.

Also, on the encoder the inputs aren't ground, they are switched "on" when ground is connected, completing the circuit and allowing current to flow. In plumbing terms, inputs are faucets, ground is the drain.  Hook your drains together(daisy chain ground), no problem.  Hook your faucets together and you won't be able to choose between hot and cold water.

Sorry if my earlier posts were unclear.

Take 2: Pot theory -- from the top.

Looking at the diagram below, You see the zig-zag (resistor) and an arrow (wiper).

As you turn the pot, the wiper moves up and down the resistor.

When it moves up, there are less zig-zags (lower resistance) between 1 and 2, and more zig-zags (higher resistance) between 2 and 3.

The resistance from 1 to 3 is constant, no matter where the wiper is at.
[/theory]

Connect pot tab 1 wire to 1down. Your 1st picture, upper right - 6th terminal from the right.

Connect pot tab 2 wire to 1up. Your 1st picture, upper right - 5th terminal from the right.

Connect pot tab 3 wire to ground. Your 1st picture, upper right - last terminal on right.


If this works, but it is backward, swap the wires for 1 and 3.


Scott

P.S. Based on the wire colors in your picture 2, I'd guess that red is 1, green is 2, and black is 3. Ignore this guess if you can see which tab they are actually connected to.


--- End quote ---
ok got it hooked up as you said! I then go into the control settings. I see the apac 1 and 2 players. i go to properties i see the plus symbol sitting at the top middle of the box it will center when i calibrate but it doesnt move up and down which i think it should!!. I tried switching the wires like you said and the olny thing it does it make the plus start at the bottom middle of the square!!

PL1:

--- Quote from: mytymaus007 on May 26, 2012, 06:31:41 pm ---ok got it hooked up as you said! I then go into the control settings. I see the apac 1 and 2 players. i go to properties i see the plus symbol sitting at the top middle of the box it will center when i calibrate but it doesnt move up and down which i think it should!!. I tried switching the wires like you said and the olny thing it does it make the plus start at the bottom middle of the square!!

--- End quote ---

Sounds like this is how you first wired then changed it.

Term.  Start    Try #2
1down Red      Black
1up     Green   Green
Gnd     Black    Red
Result  Top       Bottom

If you connected them like this and got these results, one of these two configurations should get it moving:

Term.  Try#3    Try #4   
1down Red       Black
1up     Black     Red
Gnd     Green    Green

If you get movement, you've got the right wire on 1up, just swap the wires on 1 down and ground.


Scott

P.S. This is why I have 2 multimeters.  It sucks T-shooting without one.

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