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DIY arcade joystick w/arcade parts for $60

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CthulhuLuke:
Hey all,
    I put this little article together over at shoryuken.com, although Snaaake wants to murder me if I put it up on the hardware sectiong :)

Alright, now first thing your gonna say is "That's way too expensive" but not if you do this right, you can build your own arcade stick for less than 65 dollars easy, with MINIMAL, I mean MINIMAL knowledge and experience, this is pretty much connect the plugs and screws, no cutting/wiring/etc. required.
Here's the box and pcb you buy:

http://www.redoctane.com/arcadecasepcb.html

And get the arcade parts from:
http://www.therealbobroberts.com

Happ Super Joysticks Black -$9.50
8 x Happ Microswitch Pushbuttons R/G/B/W/Y/P/O/BLK - $1.45
total is $9.50 + $11.60, +$6 for shipping, $27.10

so you gotta total of $25 for the RedOctane case, and $27.10 for the arcade parts, plus to save yourself from shipping get one of these two items:
http://www.redoctane.com/conexcabforp.html
http://www.redoctane.com/dualusb.html
cause an order of over 25 will get you free shipping, whats your total?

$57.10 for an arcade stick working to playstation, with REAL arcade parts, a NEW Super Joystick, a playstation extension cord, and all that good stuff. The only sorta hard part about this whole thing is you gotta email Bob Roberts to make your order, and send a check in the mail. All you do is figure out what button colors you want, all white is the standard, and then screw it together.
Another big note: Apparently the super joystick will bottom out with this case, so either you can pick yourself up the competition or ultimate joystick from bob roberts, or you can find a router to route out 1/4-1/2" of the wood where the joystick will be.  It's a real simple operation since you dont need to be neat on the underside of the joystick, just try not to hurt yourself.  I would imagine a dremel would work just as well, although you might be replacing whatever bit you use because MDF takes it out of a dremel if used too much.
-good luck

*A note: those usb convertors have been out of stock for a while, so I think the only thing you can get really is the extension cord to save on shipping, which is fine so you can have your arcade stick nice and far away.*

Ahi_Tuna:
Supers will bottom out on a Redoctane case. You're better off with a competition or ultimate. Competitions sit a little lower than I like though (about 1/4" too low)

You can see some examples of that can be done w/ a Redoctane case at my site. I build them as cheaper sticks compared to my big special sticks.

www.modeverything.com

CthulhuLuke:
Ooo lame, well then I guess if anyone wants to follow this guide their gonna need a router to route out the wood to accomdate for the supers bottoming out.  I didnt realize till after I posted that they were 3/4" mdf wood.  I'll modify the original post.
    -Chu

Ahi_Tuna:
The bottom plate is too thin to take enough out of and the box is already built so you can't get a router/dremmel down in there. The only other option is to cut a hole from the top and use a mounting plate like they do in the arcades. You can then use the "shorter" spacers in you competition.

I'll get flamed for this but Ultimates fit in there perfectly.  I top mount my Japanese sticks (Sanwa/Seimitsu) in these boxes.

Someone will also need to know how to crimp/cut wires. The button wires do not use .187 crimps. They are smaller for the japanese style smaller switches in those stock buttons. You'll need to cut and solder/or crimp new .187 crimps into all of the buttons. Also their common ground is soldered down for all of the buttons andjoysticks. You'll need to figure out how you want to handle it.

For RedOctane PSX boards, here is a diagram I made for the PCB. From here you can also add your two left buttons.  
http://www.geocities.com/armad1ll0/images/RedOctanePCB.jpg

It's not as simple as Luke says but it still is pretty easy. I can get a stick redone in less than an hour. Stripping all of the graphics, I can get it done in ~1.5 hours.

A trick for handling common ground for all of these sticks. Instead of crimping everything. I just run a unshielded sold tinted wire across all of the cherry switches.

http://www.geocities.com/armad1ll0/images/Stealth_wire.jpg

Maybe I should write a guide, but much of this info is on my site if someone goes through everything and my examples pages.

CthulhuLuke:
A handheld dremel could fit down there pretty easily I would think, I could see how a router couldnt.  Well ultimates aren't HORRIBLE sticks or anything, they're just not nearly as good as competitions or supers.
Unshielded wire definitely works great, thats how Mas does their wiring, I'd just be too worried bout having the grounds touch the NO's accidently, but its definitely easier than crimping 15+ quick disconnects worth of grounds.
   -Chu

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