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Goodbye Cruel World! =(

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Peja:

--- Quote from: dextercf on November 28, 2011, 03:55:54 pm ---And going up on the voltages is ok, right? The only ones I find is 50V (or 30V, but thats not gonna go well. amirite?)
Also, I get confused to how these two parts are different. And you now are telling me they are the same stuff?



--- End quote ---


I am sure I am no where near the skill level of boardjunkie but when fixing multiple motherboards at work here, I almost always go up in the voltages but leave the microfarads (uf) rating the same.  Not sure if it is true or not, but it seems like higher voltage ratings will make them last a bit longer, unless there is something completely different causing them to pop.  You should be just fine with 50v. 

Like he said, make sure you know which side is positive and negative on those radials, although it is fun watching those things blow right when you fire the board back up.......(the longer wire lead is usually the positive side while the stripe down the other side usually has the "-" sign)   Although I don't mess with tantalum caps ever, the striped side may be positive on those.  But on the electrolytic caps, the striped side is usually the negative.

You may just want to wait for boardjunkie to tell you otherwise......I would hate to mess up your board even more.  

Peja

dextercf:
And in other news... now this happened to my Toki PCB.
I'm guessing my PSU isn't that good, even though the readings off my multimeter is withing reasonable values..

Are there hope for this guy? Seems to be some kinda eprom of sorts, would this be something available that any of you know of?

dextercf:

--- Quote from: Peja on November 28, 2011, 04:24:01 pm ---
--- Quote from: dextercf on November 28, 2011, 03:55:54 pm ---And going up on the voltages is ok, right? The only ones I find is 50V (or 30V, but thats not gonna go well. amirite?)
Also, I get confused to how these two parts are different. And you now are telling me they are the same stuff?



--- End quote ---


I am sure I am no where near the skill level of boardjunkie but when fixing multiple motherboards at work here, I almost always go up in the voltages but leave the microfarads (uf) rating the same.  Not sure if it is true or not, but it seems like higher voltage ratings will make them last a bit longer, unless there is something completely different causing them to pop.  You should be just fine with 50v. 

Like he said, make sure you know which side is positive and negative on those radials, although it is fun watching those things blow right when you fire the board back up.......(the longer wire lead is usually the positive side while the stripe down the other side usually has the "-" sign)   Although I don't mess with tantalum caps ever, the striped side may be positive on those.  But on the electrolytic caps, the striped side is usually the negative.

You may just want to wait for boardjunkie to tell you otherwise......I would hate to mess up your board even more.  

Peja

--- End quote ---
This is what I have read also, but yeah.. I'll just wait to get this confirmed.
Also with this next board "blowing up", I'm a bit out of my mojo at the moment. Kinda just want to leave it be for some days. Gaarrrrr!

boardjunkie:
You can go up in voltage when replacing a capacitor. The voltage rating is the max in can take. So if you put a 50v cap in a circuit where it only sees a few volts, thats fine. Best to stick with the same value (uF rating) unless you know what yer doin' as far as what the part does in the circuit and if its ok to change the value.

The blown up part in the last photo is the audio amp for that board. I think its an "LA4460", but I'd verify that before ordering a replacement. When replacing those (or any other multi leaded IC), its usually easier to clip the leads off one at a time and then clear the holes by removing whats left of the lead then clearing solder with wick or a solder sucker.

dextercf:
This is why I love this forum, people help out!
Where can i Get me some of These parts?

Still is a bit confused with the first incident, the component that blew up was blue and has "16V" still visible.
I guess the 1uF ones talked about earlier in the post Are replayements for the bigger Green components that was too close the One componenet that blew up..

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