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joystick and push button confusion
drventure:
--- Quote ---Would have saved me hours of time and bitching
--- End quote ---
I went through those exact same hours of time and bitching :'(
I might have to check out those hollow shafts...
Turnarcades:
--- Quote from: 2panther on October 31, 2011, 08:08:03 pm ---
--- Quote from: Turnarcades on October 31, 2011, 06:10:55 pm ---For underside joystick mounting, route out about half an inch then fix the joysticks using M4 or M5 countersunk machine screws - these are just fine threaded bolts but the countersunk heads drop them flush with the wood surface. You can do the same fir the buttons too, and we've found there's no reduction in surface integrity (at least for gameplay purposes) by routing down to even 1/16 inch, as long as the wood around it is thick and you don't route out much more than required.
--- End quote ---
Great info, only thing I can't visualize is what the machine screws actually screw into to hold the joystick to the mdf
--- End quote ---
They're 'machine screws' by name, but they're actually bolts. The wide countersunk head grips in the wood at the surfsce, then the nuts hold the joystick plate flat against the underside. Sink nuts (insert nuts) are OK in some instances, but if you don't like stupidly short joysticks you may want to route out a large section underneath so the plate sits higher and hence, the joysticks - insert nuts would be no good to you in this instance as there'd be very little wood to insert them into.
2panther:
--- Quote from: Turnarcades on November 01, 2011, 02:47:13 pm ---
--- Quote from: 2panther on October 31, 2011, 08:08:03 pm ---
--- Quote from: Turnarcades on October 31, 2011, 06:10:55 pm ---For underside joystick mounting, route out about half an inch then fix the joysticks using M4 or M5 countersunk machine screws - these are just fine threaded bolts but the countersunk heads drop them flush with the wood surface. You can do the same fir the buttons too, and we've found there's no reduction in surface integrity (at least for gameplay purposes) by routing down to even 1/16 inch, as long as the wood around it is thick and you don't route out much more than required.
--- End quote ---
Great info, only thing I can't visualize is what the machine screws actually screw into to hold the joystick to the mdf
--- End quote ---
They're 'machine screws' by name, but they're actually bolts. The wide countersunk head grips in the wood at the surfsce, then the nuts hold the joystick plate flat against the underside. Sink nuts (insert nuts) are OK in some instances, but if you don't like stupidly short joysticks you may want to route out a large section underneath so the plate sits higher and hence, the joysticks - insert nuts would be no good to you in this instance as there'd be very little wood to insert them into.
--- End quote ---
now I see, I think I'm going to go with the LS-32 and get the longer shaft, hopefully the extra length will be enough that I won't need to start routing out MDF on the bottom of the CP since that will be much easier.
armi0024:
The long shafts we produce are 3/4" longer specifically for wood panels :)
brad808:
--- Quote from: armi0024 on November 01, 2011, 03:18:45 pm ---The long shafts we produce are 3/4" longer specifically for wood panels :)
--- End quote ---
How do those feel compared to the original? I would think it would change the throw of the stick quite a bit no?
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