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General wiring question for an alternate power source

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markronz:
Ok, sorry transformer then, not power supply.  My bad.

I am confused though.   If my wall wort I was using says "Output: 12VDC 1000mA" on it, and it does successfully power the motor, wouldn't that mean the power is DC and not AC?  Or are they not mutually exclusive?

Attached is a picture of my multimeter.  (note: ignore the setting the dial is currently set to...)    Where would I have to put the dial to measure AC at these levels?  It would be the ACV section, at 200, right?   

SavannahLion:
To answer the question of 12 volts becoming 20+ volts, one possibility is http://www.stepuptransformer.net/whatisatransformer.htm

Not saying that that's what you got there but it just shows one possible method.

Moving on....

Don't you need a diode there for back EMF? Or is that just for solenoids?

DaOld Man:
The 20 VDC reading on the motor could be back emf created by the motor.
Sometimes you cant trust a digital volt meter, because it reads true RMS.
The wires coming out of the transformer (metal can in the pic), is AC, it is probably rectified to DC in the control box, which is probably also the drive for the motor.
All of this is taking into account that the motor is DC not AC, and it appears from your volt readings that it is.
Here is how I would connect it.
Cut the red wire going to the motor.
You now have two red wires, one from the motor and one from the drive.
Connect he red wire from the motor to the  common connection (COM) on a SPDT throw switch (such as the micro switch on a HAPP button). Connect the red wire from the drive to the normally closed contact (NC) on the switch.
Now connect the negative from your wall wart to the black wire on the motor. (This will connect the black from the motor, black form the drive, and negative from the wall wart together.)
Now connect the positive from the wall wart to the normally open (NO) contact on the switch.
Now with the switch not pressed, the motor is connected to the drive.
Press the button, the motor disconnects from the drive and connects to the wall wart.
IMHO, this is the best way to do it, since we dont know what type of drive you have, it would be safer not to back feed voltage to the drive, some drives place a short across the motor when not running, to stop the motor faster.

DaOld Man:
Im looking at the pictures you posted, and in the one with the motor, what is that metal box in upper right corner? Looks like it has wires going to it. Is this a solenoid or something?
Does this device turn on while the motor is running?
Im asking because you need to make sure that something else is not going on to release the tokens besides just the motor running.

markronz:
Ok, based on what you said, I made up another picture.  Sorry about all these pictures, but it's just how my brain works.  I need to see it visualized first before doing it.   Does how I have it laid out seem to make sense to you?  Seems to be right to me based on what I know from making arcades.   The part that I most want to confirm is the ground wires.  I'm essentially just twisting them all together?  Nothing fancy there?   I've already cut the original black wire in half from when I was playing with it before.  So now I would just be twisting the original wire (now cut in two) with the ground from the wall wort?

Regarding that metal box in the upper right.   I believe this is a sensor to count the number of tokens that are being paid out.  This is because when the hopper gets low, the motor will be spinning, but tokens won't necessarily be going out consistently, so this sensor counts the number of tokens that actually get put out, to make sure the right number gets paid.  There are three wires going to this metal box, a red, black, and brown on.   Both the red and brown ones read at 4.8 all the time and spikes into the 20's when the payout starts.   Do you think this is anything I need to worry about?

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