Main > Project Announcements
CNC-2116 - Up and running, sort of (2015-03-21)
Yvan256:
This project is progressing slowly, but at least it's moving forward. Sorry about the non-metric measurements, but almost all the building materials here in Canada use the imperial system so it's easier to just use imperial everywhere. And even when metric hardware is available, it's usually nearly twice as expensive as imperial. With that said, let's get back to the topic.
I started cutting the router mount for the Hitachi M12VC yesterday. In the first photo, you can see that I cut 5x5" squares out of 5/8" MDF. Then, I drew lines to find the center. I used two methods at once to be certain I was in the middle. First I drew four lines, using a block a bit shorter than 2.5". That made parallel lines with a little square right in the middle of my 5x5" part. Then I drew the usual "X" lines from the corners that cross in the middle. Since the "X" happened to be right in the middle of the little square, I was 100% sure that I was centered. Or at least that I was completely off-center by exactly the same amount, twice, on two parts. :laugh:
Then I carefully punched the middle with a very small and sharp nail and drilled a progressively bigger hole, in 1/16" increments, to make sure it was always centered. Once I got to 1/4", I switched to a 7/8" hole saw bit to make big round holes. This bit makes holes that are exactly the same diameter as a roller skate bearing (as shown in one of my first posts of this project), it's a really tight fit.
In the second photo, you can see how I used a 1/4" router bit on a drill press with a jig with two skate bearings and rotated the 5x5" plate many, many times, probably around 1/32" depth on each pass, to drill a 3.27" diameter hole. A drill press doesn't turn nearly as fast as a router and has a much bigger play at the bit, but at least it's easy to increment the cutting depth.
Why go to such lengths and not use a circle cutting add-on with the router I already have? Because the only one I had access to couldn't make a hole that small, not to mention that the M12VC is a fixed base plate router and incrementing the cutting depth at each pass would have been troublesome. And the smallest hole I can make with my Dremel router attachment is around 3.5".
The third photo is the router inside the two mounting plates. There's still work to be done on those plates, but at least the router fits snugly inside them.
rbarr110:
Good luck with the build, they are very fun machines to play with. It took me about 2 years of slowing collecting parts and building to get mine done. Mine has been FULLY functional for close to a year now and am just starting to really put it to work. Once I started pricing putting one together, there wasnt much difference from a smaller machine to the larger...so I went larger, a 4'x5' cutting area.
A quick video of my first movement.
Looking at your pricing list, where did you find cheap $13 motor controllers? Most of the controllers I find are anywhere from about $40 - $130 depending on what you need. I personally went with the Gecko G540 for the built in driver board and 4 motor controllers...and amcontrolling the Nema 23's.
Yvan256:
--- Quote from: rbarr110 on September 10, 2012, 03:56:46 pm ---Good luck with the build, they are very fun machines to play with. It took me about 2 years of slowing collecting parts and building to get mine done. Mine has been FULLY functional for close to a year now and am just starting to really put it to work.
--- End quote ---
I've been reading and collecting parts for the last 5 years, so I know what you mean. From what I've read, I'm guessing the learning curve of all the necessary software is the hardest part. I've already got half a dozen projects planned for my machine, can't wait to have some fun too! ;D
--- Quote from: rbarr110 on September 10, 2012, 03:56:46 pm ---Once I started pricing putting one together, there wasnt much difference from a smaller machine to the larger...so I went larger, a 4'x5' cutting area.
--- End quote ---
I wish I had the budget and the room for such a huge machine. Unfortunately I need something small enough to be mobile, to carry around from my apartment to my father's shop or to a friend's house.
--- Quote from: rbarr110 on September 10, 2012, 03:56:46 pm ---Looking at your pricing list, where did you find cheap $13 motor controllers? Most of the controllers I find are anywhere from about $40 - $130 depending on what you need. I personally went with the Gecko G540 for the built in driver board and 4 motor controllers...and amcontrolling the Nema 23's.
--- End quote ---
I'm building my own controllers from ATtiny microcontrollers and IRLZ14 logic level mosfets. So far it works fine with the can-style, 12V stepper motors I got for 4$CAD each.
selfie:
Nice work! The pass through cutting of the larger sheets is a great idea, once you get your head around the programming it's really easy.
I'm in the market for a new CNC router too but mine gets used for paid work 8 hours per day so my budget is a bit higher ;D
Do you have plans for software?
To run codes I use Mach3 http://www.machsupport.com/
and Vcarve to program codes http://www.vectric.com/
A tip when you get around to you HDPE nuts. The link says to cool the HDPE in water, this gains you nothing over letting it cool naturally but increases the chance of creating backlash in the nuts with the unnecessary movement. I would secure the threaded rod in place and heat the rod as described but instead of quenching in water I would cool the rod in the same method as heating.
Yvan256:
--- Quote from: selfie on September 10, 2012, 05:55:11 pm ---Nice work! The pass through cutting of the larger sheets is a great idea, once you get your head around the programming it's really easy.
I'm in the market for a new CNC router too but mine gets used for paid work 8 hours per day so my budget is a bit higher ;D
--- End quote ---
I've read good things about spindles, especially water-cooled ones. Not sure if it's in your budget range, but it's really worth looking into from all the comments I've read about these.
--- Quote from: selfie on September 10, 2012, 05:55:11 pm ---Do you have plans for software?
To run codes I use Mach3 http://www.machsupport.com/
and Vcarve to program codes http://www.vectric.com/
--- End quote ---
I have zero budget as far as software goes. I was planning on designing things in Sketchup, then export/convert to another format used by LinuxCNC. Going with Sketchup just because I'm used to it and it's easy to make parts, group them, move them around in a 3D project, etc. I'm talking mainly about arcade parts and arcade panels here, however, not 3D signs with text.
--- Quote from: selfie on September 10, 2012, 05:55:11 pm ---A tip when you get around to you HDPE nuts. The link says to cool the HDPE in water, this gains you nothing over letting it cool naturally but increases the chance of creating backlash in the nuts with the unnecessary movement. I would secure the threaded rod in place and heat the rod as described but instead of quenching in water I would cool the rod in the same method as heating.
--- End quote ---
I was planning on using two blocks with holes to hold the threaded rod level and to a precise height, and use two clamps, one on each side of the HDPE halves sandwich. All that would be left to do is heat the threaded rod, the rest would be "automated", so to speak. Less risk of movement. The stuff I have is much tougher than HDPE though, I think it's Delrin or something. And while I'm at it, I'll be making more than three blocks, to have ready-to-use spares.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version