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Veteran Gamer. 1st-time MAME'r (Pole Position). Help me out pls.

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vintagegamer:
In regard to my steering wheel questions, would it be better from the PS2 mouse perspective, to remove the original optical encoder wheel from the current wheel, drill a hole in the encoder wheel from the mouse, and mount that on the existing steering wheel hardware?  That way you're matching apples with apples?  It's just a thought.

BadMouth:

--- Quote from: vintagegamer on April 13, 2011, 01:31:08 pm ---this game actually ran an opto on it for the gas pedal.
--- End quote ---

you could just hook the pedal up to the other axis of the opti-pac or mouse hack.  :)

You'll have to play with the sensetivity in MAME until it feels right, but it will be better than just having a switch.

vintagegamer:

--- Quote from: BadMouth on April 13, 2011, 02:01:30 pm ---
--- Quote from: vintagegamer on April 13, 2011, 01:31:08 pm ---this game actually ran an opto on it for the gas pedal.
--- End quote ---

you could just hook the pedal up to the other axis of the opti-pac or mouse hack.  :)

You'll have to play with the sensetivity in MAME until it feels right, but it will be better than just having a switch.

--- End quote ---

Interesting, and I'm seeing in my readings that it is in fact better to have the analog-pot combo for the pedal if at all possible.

Here is where I am getting really confused: the steering wheel and the gas pedal both have their own original encoder PCBs- from what I have read, there is no way to use these in the equation when trying to set up these encoders for PC.  Is that correct?  Or can they be involved in the setup still?

The thing that I noticed on the encoder PCB for the steering wheel is, it has 4 wires, almost the same gauge as those in the PS2 mouse.  I seriously doubt that one could snip those wires and mate them with the wires for the PS2 mouse wiring, but I'm asking anyway.  Especially since the wiring is almost all the same colors as those in the mouse too!

boardjunkie:
I would buy a real cheap USB ball mouse and use the board from that. I do this all the time to interface trackballs via USB. All you need to do is identify the L/R axis on the mouse board and which connections are for 5v, clk, and dir. For the 5v, just tap into it before the current limiting resistor for the existing mouse opto before you remove it. Same for the dir and clk. I wouldn't screw with trying to replace the existing opto assy for the wheel with anything else. Its real easy to hack it to USB.....

As far as the theory that only having the 1 game will make it run better.....thats kinda strange thinking. MAME either works or it doesn't. 1 game or 1000 it really doesn't care. The only thing limiting how well games play is your available hardware and your knowledge of setting it up properly game by game. I'd set it up for driving games in general. Don't cheat yerself. Pole Position will get lame in a hurry.....

I almost did this with a Night Driver cockpit years ago, but I didn't have the space to store it at the time. Coulda got it for free....

vintagegamer:

--- Quote from: boardjunkie on April 13, 2011, 02:33:57 pm ---As far as the theory that only having the 1 game will make it run better.....thats kinda strange thinking. MAME either works or it doesn't. 1 game or 1000 it really doesn't care. The only thing limiting how well games play is your available hardware and your knowledge of setting it up properly game by game. I'd set it up for driving games in general. Don't cheat yerself. Pole Position will get lame in a hurry.....

--- End quote ---

You guys are quickly changing my thinking on this.  :)

When you talk about a USB "ball mouse", are you referring to this kind, just in USB and not PS2?



Or are you referring to the trackball-mouse combo that usually has the big red ball thingy on top?

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