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Veteran Gamer. 1st-time MAME'r (Pole Position). Help me out pls.

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bkenobi:
I went with a mouse hack and a MS DualStrike hack for my driving cabinet.  Finding an appropriate mouse took several tries and a pile of hacked mice for future projects (well, probably not).  The DualStrike hack works fine, but it's going to take a little time and some research to fully understand how to make it work.

When I built my driving cab, the UHID was not available.  If I were building my cab today, I'd seriously look at the nano version since it gives just enough inputs to get things up and running.

This is a DIY hobby so building things from other things is cool.  BUT, when you can have a better result by buying a dedicated product (esp when it's not expensive)...DO IT!

vintagegamer:
Unfortunately right now I am not in a position to be able to buy any game parts.  That is the reason that I thought I might give this project a go.  I had the cockpit just sitting there, I had the monitor, I had a PC, I had extra mice, and my background is in technology so I thought it might be something I could pull off with the resources I had.

I actually disconnected completely from the arcade-gaming forum network online (here and KLOV) for the past 4 months to keep myself from wanting to look at things I simply had absolutely no disposable income to buy or fix.

If it doesn't look like the project is going to be possible with what I have, I'll just have to shelf this project and hope that better times are coming.  I know that $35 doesn't sound like much, but in my current predicament it actually is.   :(

BadMouth:

--- Quote from: vintagegamer on April 14, 2011, 11:44:26 am ---If it doesn't look like the project is going to be possible with what I have, I'll just have to shelf this project and hope that better times are coming.  I know that $35 doesn't sound like much, but in my current predicament it actually is.   :(

--- End quote ---

The mouse hack is worth a try. (some might even consider it free entertainment)
Wheel=one axis, pedal=other axis,coin=left button, start=right button, exit=middle button(to allow for other games).

I don't know how to tell if the mouse you have is one of the models that will work.  
Google the subject and find out what models others have used.
I've never taken the time to sit down and figure this quadrature encoder stuff out, so I'm not much help there.

EDIT: http://www.willcoxonline.com/mame/controlpanel/controlpanel.htm

Doesn't look too hard.....Power, Gnd, & two sensor wires to each board.

vintagegamer:
Thanks BM- the mouse I currently have opened up for this project is a Microsoft Intellimouse, and I think it's version/revision 1.2.  I read on diff sites that the Intellimouse is the way to go if you have one at your disposal.  It has the left and right buttons but no center scrolly wheel.

What my original hope to do was, to mimic InsaneDavid's plan identically.  He took the mouse PCB and matched it up to the original PP encoder wheel that is on his control panel, and with some tweaks in MAME's settings he was able to get it dialed in.  The difference with my situation is, the encoder wheel on the Sega Monaco GP control panel is significantly larger than the one on the PP CP, and it also just looks more like a gear than an encoder wheel- specifically, that outer edge that basically "closes the boxes" punched out of the encoder wheel does not exist.

If I can't get the existing Sega encoder wheel to work with the mouse PCB, I was considering for a next plan to remove that Sega wheel, drill a hole in one of the small mouse encoder wheels that were in the original mouse, and see if I can attach that to the shaft where the current Sega encoder wheel is mounted.  I don't know if that will work or not though, so if anyone has a theory, now's the time.........  :D

vintagegamer:
Well, here's today's update:

I removed the opto transmitter on the X-axis from the Intellimouse, and replaced it with 2 wires.  I ran those wires to the original encoder board on the control panel (pics of the encoder PCB board here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=111085.0).  I ran the +5V and the ground from one of the extra plugs inside the PC to the yellow/red wire (believed to be +5) and white wire (believed to be common) on the encoder PCB.

I powered up the machine and the 2 LED's on the encoder power board began working again as they had when the original Monaco GP components were in there.  I started a game of PP and did not see any movement of the car when I moved the wheel, even though I did enable the mouse in the command line while launching MAME, and also made sure that the settings indicated that "mouse x axis" was chosen to be used for the dial/steering.

I exited the game and looked to see if the pointer was moving on the screen in Windows if I turned the wheel.  Once in a while, I'd see a very brief movement, but the pointer definitely wasn't being moved much.  I went into the Windows Control Panel and set the pointer setting to its highest point, that made no difference.

I went back into MAME, and for the dial sensitivity I put it at the max which was 255%.  It made no change.

I tried swapping the connections going from the encoder PCB to the PS/2 mouse's x-axis as well, no change.

Does anyone have any ideas what I am missing?  This is really bumming me out.  :(   I was sure that once the LEDs were lighting up on the original encoder PCB board, I'd had it licked.  I was wrong.......

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