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MDF or plywood for CP?
brock.sampson:
Don't forget about mdo plywood. You get the paper face of mdf with the lightness of plywood. I have used it for a few projects and it worked really well.
Bender:
--- Quote from: brock.sampson on December 28, 2010, 08:44:23 am ---Don't forget about mdo plywood. You get the paper face of mdf with the lightness of plywood. I have used it for a few projects and it worked really well.
--- End quote ---
+1
I'm a big fan of MDO, you get the lightness of plywood plus a laminate paper face that is very even and smooth, easy to paint or laminate, except of the edges of course (which are just like plywood), where I use a thin quick coat of bondo then the edges sand better than MDF
Kevin Mullins:
--- Quote from: Ed_McCarron on December 23, 2010, 09:40:46 am ---Plus, it's tough to load in your pickup.
(Is that even funny anymore?)
--- End quote ---
Yes.
Ginsu Victim:
--- Quote from: Ed_McCarron on December 23, 2010, 09:40:46 am ---Plus, it's tough to load in your pickup.
(Is that even funny anymore?)
--- End quote ---
I checked this thread just to make sure who would be first to say it. :lol
NoBullMAME:
If you go with MDF, I'd recommend a making your curved cuts with a router not a jigsaw, unless you get a blade made for MDF (maybe carbide tipped)?
But if you don't use a router a lot it can be hard to control.
Have you thought of particle board? Most arcades from the 80's were made out of PB. If you get west coast pine, it's pretty strong, plus the dust isn't as bad for you (more wood and glue less other c#$p). If you do opt for PB, don't use sanding sealer, but paint it with a gray primer (I use the 99 cent flat gray paint from Walmart). Paint, sand with a fine sandpaper and repeat. I do three layers then paint it flat black and it looks just like MDF.
I've never used MDO, but regular plywood is a pain. IMHO, stay away from it unless you plan on doing a wood finish. The layers make it really hard to route the sides for t-molding.
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