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No more CRT Arcade monitors? :(
Xiaou2:
My 19" Viewsonic p90f that I picked up for $12 at the thrift shop, does 1920 x 1440 @ 85hz. Text is actually legible... tho, Id never use that for windows. For games however, it very well could be used for that.
The accurate colors and depth of contrast is unmatched to the LCD I had , and have seen. Which is extremely important when you are doing artwork which requires accurate shading. Which is quite sad.. because I specifically bought the Monster LCD for use w/ photoshop & other art programs. When I saw how lacking the display was in terms of ranges... I had no choice but to use the CRT for art, and the LCD as a mere toolbar holder instead.
LCD:
You simply move your head & on some LCDs, and the colors will change due to the way viewing angles effect things. Visibility and Unchanged content are two very different things.
Ive seen LCDs which are so artificial looking that its not real (colors are all wrong). They also tend to blind you with the brightness, and if you turn it down, it looks too dim and flat. (too much contrast from backlight, without the LCD spectral range to support it correctly)
As the LCD backlight ages, the color of the light changes... and so the picture is not longer color accurate. Not sure if LEDs solve this completely or not..
LCDs often have black issues.. where the blacks are more of a gray.. due to backlight leakage.
And While LCD tech is getting better... Ive yet to see any LCD that does not suffer from motion blurring when objects are moving fast. This drives me Nuts, especially in the Movie Theaters, where their projectors are LCD based.
Edit:
Wow... I just fired up the 21" Pixiltouch Kiosk monitor (CRT) I scored for $150..
I cant find the specs for it... but windows is allowing me to crank it to 2048 x 1536 !!! And its Razor sharp! ;D with everything perfectly legible, no blurring at all. WOW. :o ;D
New technology does not always equate to better.
There are Pluses and Minuses to each of the display methods available.
Gray_Area:
--- Quote from: Xiaou2 on December 24, 2010, 04:05:39 am ---My 19" Viewsonic p90f that I picked up for $12 at the thrift shop, does 1920 x 1440 @ 85hz.
Wow... I just fired up the 21" Pixiltouch Kiosk monitor (CRT) I scored for $150..
I cant find the specs for it... but windows is allowing me to crank it to 2048 x 1536 !!! And its Razor sharp! ;D with everything perfectly legible, no blurring at all. WOW. :o ;D
--- End quote ---
All my old 21 inch CRTs did 2048x1536, quite clearly.
Good convergence can make original arcade monitors look relatively sharp. The phosphor elements then soften the objects. Perfect.
Blanka:
--- Quote from: Xiaou2 on December 24, 2010, 04:05:39 am ---And While LCD tech is getting better... Ive yet to see any LCD that does not suffer from motion blurring when objects are moving fast. This drives me Nuts, especially in the Movie Theaters, where their projectors are LCD based.
--- End quote ---
The biggest problem for movies is the fixed frame rate, not pixel response. We need multisync LCD's as fast as possible. Eizo has a few in the upper segment. Those do 23.96p, 24p, 25p, 48p, 50p, 57.92p and 60p fluently. I hope lower end screens are going to support this too (instead of the upscaling to 100/200hz thing TV's do).
LCD based projectors sound really weird to me. I may hope they use DLP. And I hope they run on 23.96fps too.
And always remember: MOVIES have much more motion blur than video, as 24fps is not very high!. It is part of the experience. Old slide projectors had lots of motion artifacts too.
Zakk:
On the plus side, our garbage isn't going to waste.
MonMotha:
--- Quote from: SavannahLion on December 23, 2010, 02:13:52 am ---Intriguing.... without doing further research (yet) on the topic you presented, I do have this immediate question:
--- Quote ---Thick film resistors will often pop open, while film resistors usually survive.
--- End quote ---
How does that work? What part of the manufacturing process causes that to occur?
--- End quote ---
The gist of it is that thick film chip resistors (the normal, garden-variety, low-cost SMT resistor type) are built with a zig-zag pattern. This creates a long, narrow path for the current that is subject to localized heating due to subtle process variation, and it's not particularly well heatsinked. Metal and carbon film type resistors are built as a uniform structure and are not subject to much process variation. This structure creates fewer spots subject to localized heating, and it provides for better thermal transfer to the substrate. Basically, tiny spots in the resistor heat up less and are able to dissipate their energy to the substrate/body faster. This means that you can surge them more since they won't "pop" the internal structure, even if the steady-state power handling (determined by case size, mostly) is the same.
Note that thick film chip resistors don't really exist in leaded form; they're almost exclusively SMT. Precision SMT resistors are thin film chip and have good temperature stability and resistance tolerance but still don't handle surges well. Metal and carbon film resistors are available in SMT as well as leaded.
There are also some esoteric plastic film resistors. They tend to be limited to niche applications as they are expensive but offer an array of extremely stable characteristics. They're usually specifically called out in a BOM.
As to replacing with the wrong type, it can be a problem. The bill of materials will usually call out what kind of resistor is specified. For through-hole types, there is a color code. Dark brown is carbon composition (carbon dust, essentially), light brown is carbon film (these are the most common, these days), light blue is metal film, white ceramic bodies are usually wirewound, light gray bodies are I think either a metal film or metal oxide type and tend to be high power and a reasonably non-inductive alternative to wirewound. The differences between the two are subtle. The biggest differences lie in failure mode and self inductance.
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