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How to choose a router.
Franco B:
I built a similar table for my first one. I made one that could be held in a work mate:
For my second one I built a table that coud hold the two crappy Chinese routers for doing some production work:
I have since got rid of that and bought a decent router table and I also bought a smaller one so I can still have two routers/tools set up at once:
The large table is from Rutlands and is still on offer at £99.95 (down from £179.95) and is an absolute bargain if you consider what you get for your money. [Link].
Digital Vandal:
After reading this and other threads about routers I've decided i'm even more lost than when I started.
The main types of router are plunge and fixed, the experts suggest fixed is best for a 1st router, however fixed routers are not readily available in the uk.
People advise on here to get a 1/2" shank(?) collet(?) but the majority of the routers I have seen say they have 1/2", 1/4" and sometimes 1/8" all on the same router.
All my tools are black and decker and would really like to buy a router from them too. I have found one which I believe will do the job, KW1600EA, but it seems that there are 2 or 3 different routers with different parts using the same model number.
Anyone fancy removing the confusion?
Thanks
bkenobi:
If the router says it has collets for 1/2" (as well as smaller), you should be able to use tools that are 1/2" or smaller shaft. The benefit is flexibility and the ability to use better quality bits. All bits aren't available in the smaller 1/4" shaft size, so being able to use a 1/2" shaft will be a plus.
gryhnd:
--- Quote from: fenman on September 15, 2010, 06:50:01 pm ---The main types of router are plunge and fixed, the experts suggest fixed is best for a 1st router, however fixed routers are not readily available in the uk.
--- End quote ---
My Porter Cable router is both a fixed and a plunge, depending on what base you slide the motor into. I use both.
And go for a router that accepts 1/2" bits. Most (all?) 1/2" routers also have 1/4" collets. You can go down in size from 1/2" bitts, but if you buy a 1/4" router you can't go up to a 1/2" bit later.
trevski:
--- Quote from: fenman on September 15, 2010, 06:50:01 pm ---After reading this and other threads about routers I've decided i'm even more lost than when I started.
--- End quote ---
I'm a very occasional woodworkermangler and I guess that the big question has to be what are YOU going to do with your router? Splurging £200+ on a Makita that you'll only use a handful of times is an incredible waste of cash.
Consider hiring one for a day for about £30 (link) and you'll get a decent make (I got a Makita when I hired) or maybe pick up a servicable 1200watt machine for £20 from Aldi (link)
Either way you'll not chuck down a load of hard earned cash only to find out you're not really comfortable with routing - Its scary :laugh:.
Regarding collets - More expensive routers will have a collet to take a 1/2" shank bit, the cheaper ones only 1/4" and smaller. However - All the bits you'll need for DIY use and a cab build are available in 1/4" (eg: Slot Cutting) and indeed 1/4" is widely available in the UK in DIY stores with 1/2" tending towards professional use.
ps: give the PDF usage and safety guide a cheeky download from HSS hire - good reading prior to first time use.
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