Main > Main Forum
Lots of Beginner Questions-Japanese Parts-Eventual Bartop
XCVG:
Another noob question from XCVG. Planning to build a bartop some time in the future. Anyway, I want Japanese parts, both for the supposedly awesome feel and the small size. Unfortunately, I don't think I can or want to to a metal control panel. So, can you mount these parts in wood? The screw-type ones perhaps? Some potential options I thought up of:
1. Route out the wood- I don't think this is going to work.
2. Use hardboard- It's small enough to do so, but I don't know if this is thin enough.
3. Use plastic- Not joking. Get some acrylic or Lexan. Not sure if it's thin enough, though. And it's expensive.
EDIT: Changed title. New questions.
1. Sanwa vs Seimitsu buttons. Is there any real difference? Is one better? Is it one of those personal preference things? Which do you use?
2. Sanwa JLF vs JLW vs Seimitsu LS-32. I've narrowed it down, but I'm not sure about which of the three I want.
3. Any tips on doing cabinet art, especially the marquee, would be appreciated. Remember, I'm kinda trying to do this on the cheap (controls will be the most expensive parts).
massive88:
The screw type work just fine.
I imagine the snap in ones would work fine as well, havent used them though, but its not like you are ever exerting force what would lift them up and out of the panel. If you were really worried about it, you could drop a dab of hot glue on them as well.
For the screw ones, I routed out my wood to about 1/4" where the buttons go, that plus my 1/8" acrylic on top left plenty of room for the screw to still engage. You can probably mount to an overall 1/2" thickness with them as well.
Franco B:
Yup, its all possible :)
I did a joystick top mounting guide [here] which some people seem to have found useful.
In regards to the buttons you can just use the snap in buttons in wooden drilled holes for a lazy solution.
If you want to use the screw in type the max material thickness you can mount the buttons in is 8mm. To achieve this with wood you can route out an area around the buttons. This is an example of a panel I did for someone.
You can do that with a large forstner bit, route it free hand or route it with a template like I did. There was 3mm acrylic on top of that panel so the mdf was routed to leave 5mm.
You could use a hardboard sheet and mount your buttons in that but you would want lots of support under it. You could mount in on top of another piece of material with a hole cut where the buttons are.
You could also do a similar thing with acrylic and mount the buttons as above.
If you wanted to mount them in sheet of acrylic with no backing I would suggest you would want it no thinner than 6mm (1/4") for stability.
There are probably a few more options but as you can see there is lots possible :)
mwong168:
If you are mounting a Sanwa JLF in wood make sure you order a "JLF-TP-8S" or else order this "S" plate which makes mounting in wood easier.
I don't know if this is possible but you could route the wood on the top to match the thickness of the plate and top mount? I don't have too much experience mounting with japanese parts in wood but have done plenty of direct swaps into Madcatz SE and Hori's for friends.
massive88:
Heres a case I made for someone out of 3/4" MDF, routing recesses to undermount a standard JLF and use screw in buttons.
http://eminent.omgbbq.com/misc/atxscar/IMG_2455.JPG
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
Go to full version