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Author Topic: "The Griffin" - Finished August 28, 2010!  (Read 28967 times)

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SephYuyX

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"The Griffin" - Finished August 28, 2010!
« on: November 22, 2009, 08:33:44 pm »

 
 
First off a big thanks to BYOAC, without those guys I wouldnt have bothered with this project. So much help and resources in one place, just an amazing community.
Also thanks to: Andy @ www.ultimarc.com, Divemaster127 @ www.arcadeemulator.net, Randy @ www.groovygamegear.com, and Scott @ www.gameongrafix.com
All great people to work with, saved me money, and provided superior products and services. If youre ever building an arcade cabinet, everything you need can be found through them, dont go looking anywhere else.
 

The PC - XP Pro, P4 2.5GHz, 1GB, 430W, Radeon 9550:

 
Completed Marquee:

 
Completed Control Panel:

 
Completed Side:

 
Completed Bottom:

 
Completed Front:

 
Full Complete Cabinet:

 
Intro Video:

 
 
Full Complete Indepth Video:
 
 
 
Composite Video:
 
 





=====Original Post=====


Uh yeah, no name yet, nor sure if I will at all, so yeah.

Ive always wanted to build my own home entertainment room with leather couches, a great audio system and a huge projection system, however thatll have to wait till I get a big enough house. Whats goes great in an entertainment room though? An arcade.

Well then, since I decided to start on the cabinet, I began to look around and see what kind of designs are out there. I could of gone with the basic look, I wanted something a bit more eye catching, and then I saw this http://www.mameroom.com/images/UAIIQuadKit.jpg The second I saw it I knew it was going to be perfect. But how to figure out the dimensions? On their website you could buy a completed unit, a DIY kit or just the dimensions, and thanks to the internet I did a bit of searching and found some rough dimensions for it, and began to work off of those.

Using Visio I then started to work on the top portion and the bottom portion and ran in to various problems. Some of the dimensions didnt quite match up total wise, so I had to change a few, I also didnt like their pullout drawer for a keyboard, I figured I could easily fit a mico keyboard in the control panel, so I decided to raise the front kick plate, and I think it looks more like an arcade this way.

Here is part of the drawing I came up with. I have a full Visio layout with dimensions thats not show.


Fairly self explainatory which piece is what, and the blue part will help me find the points to cut out the red part. This is the hardest part solved, and as you can see in the final picture what it looks like put together from the side, and its height/width, 6'2x3'4 seems reasonable to me. With this part out of the way, I can fill in the front and back on the fly basically. Im not an expert wood worker, but I know a good amount.
 
I havent quite finalized on the max inside width, but im thinking 25", it seems most arcades hover around 23" to 35", but I think anything above 30" is too big, maybe ill consider going to 28". I dont need to worry about that right now though, I can size it up once I get the sides cut out. Id also how to find a display unit to match it's width, so somewhere between a 25" to a 33".
 
In terms of material, im thinking 5/8" MDF; while heavy, it's fairly inexpensive, and im going to try to keep this project sub $1000, which shouldnt be too hard. Most of my cost will come from the control panel and the display unit.
 
I still havent decided on how many players I should make the control panel either. I was originally thinking 4P, but honestly, there arent that many 4P arcade games, nor will I have 4 people regularly available to play. However I started thinking that there are a decent amount of 4P N64 and DC games out there, any maybe that might be a reason to go 4P. And then after deciding how many players, Ill have to figure out a button config. There are many games out there, ones that use 1 button, and ones that use lots, and it seems every aracade has a different arrangment. Im thinking 7 buttons per player, 1 8x joy each, with 1 track ball, 1 spinner, and 1 4x joy, and then some extra misc buttons.

Yes, as I forgot to mention not only will I be using this to play arcade games, but also the many video games out there. Which brings me to my next issue, the display unit. While an actual arcade display is nice for getting that realisim, getting one that displays newer games properly isnt common, and can be quite expensive, $600 for a 27". So then maybe a monitor? but it may not display the arcade games properly, but I found this guy Ultimarc, the Ultimate in Arcade Controls.� and it's bascially a video card that emulates an arcade display properly, so that may be an option. The easiest and middle of the road option would just be to use a good ol CRT TV, easy to find, and cheap, but would need an S-Vid at minimum, and it's hard to find one that has thinish sides, but I guess that will be an issues down the road.
 
And then even later down the road is all the small details like power buttons, lighting, and marquees.

(if this post sounds a bit in the past, I wrote it a couple weeks ago, but didint post it.)
« Last Edit: August 29, 2010, 10:38:52 am by SephYuyX »

SephYuyX

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Re: Scratch Build.
« Reply #1 on: November 22, 2009, 08:38:23 pm »
So since then I thought a bit more, and started on the build.

I decided to go with 2 players, but nothing set in stone yet, but I do want 7 buttons at minimum, maybe 8?

So itll be this set up at least:
..OOO
..OOO
O

And for 8 I guess..

OOOO
OOOO

..OOO
..OOO
OO

O
..OOO
..OOO
O

or something.

I still havent found a display yet, but I decided against an acrade monitor just because of the cost. But craigslist has yielded nothing yet in terms of component TVs of a suitable size.

I also started working on a color scheme. I saw one I kind of liked and mimiced it as best I could, good enough for starters.


SephYuyX

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Re: Scratch Build.
« Reply #2 on: November 22, 2009, 08:39:31 pm »
The actual project begins! Ill be copy/pasting from my facebook, so thats why it may be worded oddly.
 
Some T-Molding samples; this will go around the edge.

 
Four 5/8" 8x4' MDF Sheets. Heavy suckers weigh about 90lbs each. 1/2 and 3/4 can be found anywhere, only one place in the area sells 5/8 and took days to find out who.

 
Laying out the pattern for the bottom portion on one sheet.

 
Laying out the pattern for the top portion on another sheet. The meauring took a very long time. I started at about noon, and didnt start cutting till about 4 when the sun started to vanish. Measure 42 times, cut once.

 
Forgot to adjust the drawing so I could fit both sides of the top portion on one sheet, but luckily enough both the top and bottom portions could fit on to one sheet (by 2 inches..). So I cut both sheets at the proper length, and that allowed the smaller unused half from the top portion to be used with the bottom portion, and the larger unused half from the bottom to be used with the top portion.

 
Top portion work in progress. Using multipule clamps to keep it secure, and moving them when necessary. I used the 1x2 board as a straight edge for the saw and clamped it down 1-1/4" from the line I wanted to cut. I originally planned to cut out only one side, and then use it as a template to route the second one out with a flush tip bit, but after a friend recommended trying to cut two boards in one pass, I tried it, and it worked fine. Saved time and money.

 
Top portion all cut out, and both sides perfectly flush thanks to lots of clamps. Just needs to be sanded a bit, and itll be time to cut out the bottom portion.

 
Getting the bottom portion all clamped, set, and ready to go.

 
Bottom piece WIP, same process as before; mark 1-1/4" away from cut, clamp straight line, cut.

 
Cuts all done, just need to sand and touch up.

 
Realised I hadnt 'planned' passed the profile bit of the project, so did a few rough measurments and begane to cut the front and back peices.

 
Bottom part set out.

 
Top part set out.

 
Profile laid out.

 
The front and back pieces of the bottom portion, will do the top parts after the botom is assembled and the top is attached to that. This part wasnt too hard, but all the markings, adding the straight edge, cut, remove straight edge, mark next piece, add straight edge, etc took awhile.

 
Material List and Total Cost at the moment.
« Last Edit: December 23, 2009, 08:37:59 pm by SephYuyX »

SephYuyX

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Re: Scratch Build.
« Reply #3 on: November 22, 2009, 08:43:10 pm »
So this is where I am at the moment.

Profile done, front and back pieces cut out, slot cut bit on order, still looking for a display. Should have the bottom done by the time the bit comes in, and I should be able to route the slots with the bottom put together.

Im lucky enough to have the basic power tools at my availability, so thats kept costs down a ton.

What im tring to decide on now is what kind of wood inside. I was thinking 2x2, but 1x1 may be good enough. Was also thinking about what kind of screws, and I think ill just go with coarse drywall screws, but not sure on what size yet, as ive yet decided on the wood yet. I was thinking 2-1/4" or 2" for the 2x2 wood, but not sure which.
« Last Edit: November 22, 2009, 09:21:01 pm by SephYuyX »

painterinfo

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Re: Scratch Build.
« Reply #4 on: November 27, 2009, 08:45:11 am »
Ever used Sketchup?

For a bit of fun I wanted to see if I could produce a scaled 3D version of your diagram.
http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=86143e04b723666128fdea86734e40fc&ct=mdsa

You might find it useful to visualise it in 3D if you are designing it from scratch, you have a lot of desisions to make, marquee mount contoller positions etc.

Here is a link to some more info about sketchup. http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/SketchUp_Tips

Enjoy.
Scripting Wizard

SephYuyX

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Re: Scratch Build.
« Reply #5 on: November 29, 2009, 05:08:00 pm »
I actualy did try it once and never got the hang of it lol. I may try again for the CPO and see how it goes. Thanks for giving it a go, gives an interesting view to it. It's coming along pretty well too.

Btw, if anyone has an extra coin door fram laying around, let me know :( http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=98424.0


Got this guy on the cheap from a local vendor. In near perfec condition. I decided to not get the complete working mechanics just because I dont plan on using it in that fasion, and no one will ever notice the difference, and I can just get the lights working through another means.

 
Heres the door taken apart for cleaning.

 
One thing I wasnt too happy with, the slot cut bit for my router was very hard to line up straight for various reasons, so it looks a bt off center in some places, but fine in others, I guess the wood just wasnt completely flat. So Ill just get 3/4" T-Molding, and that way I can just cut off the edges to make it flush with the board, just a little bit of extra work, but itll come out fine.

 
Lumber/Furring for the braces.

 
Decided to ass some cross beam supprt. Two for the base, two for the control panel, and three for where the tv/monitor will rest.

 
Heres the support for the front, back and side panels. Instead of drilling directly in to the weak depth of the MDF, I drilled into the furring. Even when you countersink into the side of MDF it can split. Aside from srews, I used Titebond II glue to keep in nice and secure.

 
Heres the bottom 98% complete. Just have to add the 4 other cross beams, and then add the shelf to area where theres there 3 beams. Next step is to add the top.

 
Inside look.

 
Shows how I countersunk the screw holes. Going to add bondo/wood fill and then sand flat.

 
Material List and Total Cost at the moment.

SephYuyX

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Re: Scratch Build. (My First & No Name Yet)
« Reply #6 on: December 04, 2009, 12:55:17 am »
New pics at the end of the weekend, but i've come to realise that I need to start working on the CP.

But im sort of stuck. I know I want at least 7 buttons, but is there any reason to have, or any games that supports 8 buttons?
I plan on it being two player, with two 8 ways, one 4 way, one ball, one spinner, and the usual admin buttons. Ive been looking over various CPs trying to figure out a good sort for it, and ive also been browsing the site with the different button layouts trying to find a good one that suits me.

When doing this ive realised that I still dont have a set color/theme/name.

I know some people have nicknames, or a color/theme theyve had all their life, but what should I do when ive none?
Thinking about the blue/red theme I posted earlier just seems kind of bleh, but im not real sure where to start.

SephYuyX

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Re: Scratch Build; My First.
« Reply #7 on: December 21, 2009, 04:00:02 pm »
Bit of a break in between, but will be picking it up again. Had to focus on finals and had to figure out a few more things.
 
Base all done with the TV shelf on.

 
Sides up; took a bit to make sure they line up, but it worked out.

 
Side view of it.

 
Top and rear panels on; had to bend it in slightly, but it's all square now.

 
Full shot of it.

 
Close up. Have to cut one more panel, and thats where the speaks will rest on.

 
Rear view. This is what itll look when finished, no need to add any more panels

 
Frame for coin door, now I just need to cut it in half

 
My spare PC being put to use. P4 2.5ghz, 2gb ram, 80gb hd, 400watt (this will light up a few other things as well), radeon 9550. Tested it out with MAME and UMK3 and it worked fine, should run up to GC and PS2 gen fine.

 
PC will go inside there, not sure if I want to decase it and make a mount for it or not. Should be fine just in the case.

 
2.1 speaker system, cheap and good, sounds fine, and small footprint

 
20" TV. Slightly dissapointed; it's a Sony Trin w/ SVid which is good enough, and it does look good, but ill be looking for a bigged one (25~27"). Itll do for now. Ill have it made so that TVs can be easily interchanged if anything happened

 
Material List and Total Cost at the moment

 
 
Next step is the control panel, still working on a physical design for it, should have it done soon though.
« Last Edit: January 07, 2010, 07:17:13 pm by SephYuyX »

saurian333

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Re: Scratch Build; My First.
« Reply #8 on: December 21, 2009, 05:39:44 pm »
Hey, you've got my computer case!  LOL...  Actually mine's been modded quite a bit; doesn't really look like that anymore.

The UAII is pretty common around here it seems, but I like it.  Especially with the 4-player CP, it has a certain "beefy" look without actually being ginormous.  Yours is looking good!

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Re: Scratch Build; My First.
« Reply #9 on: December 21, 2009, 10:34:18 pm »
Looks like it is coming along nicely.

I decided to use thin square beading and screw the panels on from the inside on my cab.

Your thicker beading and screw/fill from the outside technique certainly looks quicker and easier. 
Scripting Wizard

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Re: Scratch Build; My First.
« Reply #10 on: December 22, 2009, 10:54:27 am »
I have that exact speaker kit in one of my cabs. I will buy another for my next cab as well. Those are excellent for this purpose, and the volume knob/headphone jack can be mounted at a convenient place without any hacking.

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Re: Scratch Build; My First.
« Reply #11 on: December 23, 2009, 09:26:01 am »
Thanks guys, plan on working on the speaker/light shelf today, as well as the beginnings of the CP.
Current design and thoughts: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=98731.msg1045828#msg1045828

Definitely finding out the CP is the most stressful part.

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Re: Scratch Build; My First. (Updated: 12/23/09)
« Reply #12 on: December 23, 2009, 08:20:37 pm »
Two updates in one week? Arent you all happy now.
The big cutting is all done, and the cabinet is 'done', minus all the hours itll take making everything look pretty, and getting the CP perfect..
 
 
 
I finally had to buckle down and figure out a physical design for the control panel (CP) (the art on the other hand..) so I took near a whole day playing with photoshop to get that together. I think it came out pretty good. The green guide lines helped line things up

 
Without the guides. The black boarder is the the 5/8" MDF box the control panel will sit on and house the electronics and such

 
Total size is 37"x18" and curves in the front. 3 Joysticks, 2 being 8 way, and the top one being a 4 way for older games. 8 buttons per player, 2 start buttons, 2 coin buttons, 4 admin buttons, and 2 mouse buttons (these two will be connected to the SpinTrak Spinner), and a 3" U-Trak Trackball. Most are Happ components, but will be bought through GGG for a cheaper price. The Spinner and Trackball will be bought through Ultimarc, as well as an IPac2 which controls all of these things

 
Went to Kinkos to print it off, only $5, not bad at all.

 
Finally finished adding the cross beam support for the CP base, nice and sturdy now. The base will also latch on to the rear beam, and be detachable for maintenance and moving

 
Sides of the CP base up

 
All done

 
Side view of it, 4.5" height dropping to 3.5". I tried to cut the front and back peices at an angle too (only 2ish degrees) but it was just silly, so didnt bother

 
Added the speaker and light shelf finally too, 22.5 degree angle on the front to hold the marquee square

 
Pull back view of the 'completed' cabinet

 
Now with the CP base

 
Now with a 40x20" top thatll be carved out to look sexy. A 30" piano hinge will be put on the front face of the CP base so the CP can be lifted up to be looked at

 
Front close view of it

 
Nice looking side angle. The slots will be for the T-Molding if you dont recall from earlier

 
Put the cp print out on it just to see. The back of the cp will be straight, but the front will be curved to look soft

 
Pull back view of it completed

 
Side view of it

 
Angle view
« Last Edit: January 07, 2010, 07:21:22 pm by SephYuyX »

saurian333

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Re: Scratch Build; My First. (Updated: 12/23/09)
« Reply #13 on: December 27, 2009, 03:31:28 am »
Lots of pics; nice to see it coming along well!  Your CP looks excellent.  :cheers:

As a fellow n00b on his first project, I was wondering what made you decide to go with the IPac from Ultimarc.  I'm going to be ordering from GGG as well, and I planned on getting a Keywiz from them.  What did you find to be the major benefit of the IPac over the Keywiz?  Price seems about the same thing, and you're placing an order from GGG (who has the Keywiz) anyway, so I'm just curious.

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Re: Scratch Build; My First. (Updated: 12/23/09)
« Reply #14 on: December 27, 2009, 10:36:11 am »
Honestly the first thing I heard people talk about in threads and in their projects was IPac, and never heard about Keywiz till later down the road. I guess I just saw IPac as being the 'popular choice', and figured since it seems more people use it, theres a bigger support base for when/if im having issues with it. I never actually even looked at the differences btwn them sadly. Gogo consumerism.

Pretty much same for the reverse, I was set on wanting Happ Joys/Buttons, and that old leaf feel, so I went with GGG for those, and didnt end up hearing about some of Ultimarc stuff till later. Planning on getting NovaMatrix from GGG too.

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Re: Scratch Build; My First. (Updated: 12/23/09)
« Reply #15 on: December 27, 2009, 12:38:34 pm »
Looks good man! I started on my cp last night, but I'm on hold till I get my trackball and spinner.
I thought about going rounded on the front lip, but decided to use (slightly rounded) corners to match the angles on the cabinet style.

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Re: Scratch Build; My First. (Updated: 12/23/09)
« Reply #16 on: December 27, 2009, 02:10:27 pm »
Nice build. I like that cab shape. Looks like it's rearing back to pounce....

 :applaud:

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Re: Scratch Build; My First. (Updated: 12/23/09)
« Reply #17 on: December 27, 2009, 11:16:12 pm »
Honestly the first thing I heard people talk about in threads and in their projects was IPac, and never heard about Keywiz till later down the road. I guess I just saw IPac as being the 'popular choice', and figured since it seems more people use it, theres a bigger support base for when/if im having issues with it. I never actually even looked at the differences btwn them sadly. Gogo consumerism.

Pretty much same for the reverse, I was set on wanting Happ Joys/Buttons, and that old leaf feel, so I went with GGG for those, and didnt end up hearing about some of Ultimarc stuff till later. Planning on getting NovaMatrix from GGG too.

OK, thanks.  Just wondering, because I can get everything together from GGG on the cheap.  Ultimarc's buttons are a fair bit more, and they are IL buttons (which are the same as Happ AFAIK).  I haven't heard anything bad about either the IPac or Keywiz; most reports around BYOAC are that they are both great interfaces.

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Re: Scratch Build; My First. (Updated: 12/23/09)
« Reply #18 on: January 06, 2010, 08:06:25 am »
Looking good so far.  What do you have planned for artwork?  Please tell me you're going to use those skele-horsemen.  They're pretty sweet!  Are they from something or did you design them?
If there's bees in the trap I'm catching em
By the thorax and abdomen
And sanding the stingers down to a rough quill
Then I dip em in ink, and I scribble a bit
But if it they wriggle then I tickle em until they hold still
Lemme say it again
In my land of pretend
I use bees as a mf'n pen

SephYuyX

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Re: Scratch Build; My First. (Updated: 12/23/09)
« Reply #19 on: January 06, 2010, 09:55:40 am »
Unfortunatly I dont have any artwork planned yet :/ Thats my last issue, everything else has been figured out, and just needs to be executed. The only thoughts I have is using the red/blue scheme above and add to it, or a new idea is a Griffin (the legendary creature kind) theme, else I may just pic out some premade theme from somewhere.

My avatar and sig come from a pixel artist named Paul Robertson, he does really great stuff. One of his animations: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-5208311714700987326# Can find a lot more on youtube and his sites.

Hopefully Ill have an update for this weekend.

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Re: Scratch Build; My First. (Updated: 12/23/09)
« Reply #20 on: January 06, 2010, 10:19:48 am »
I like his sense of humor, but it's also a bit disturbing...  
« Last Edit: January 06, 2010, 11:25:43 am by Gamester »
Current Project:                                                       First Project:
  

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Re: Scratch Build; My First. (Updated: 12/23/09)
« Reply #21 on: January 06, 2010, 11:36:44 am »
A bit, but ive a twisted sense of humor, so fits well :p
Reminds me a bit of the Metal Slug games.

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Re: Scratch Build; My First. (Updated: 1/19/10)
« Reply #22 on: January 19, 2010, 10:56:03 pm »
Is it time for another update? I guess so. Took a small break to enjoy the holidays, and to work out some details, but finally got in the mood to work on it again. This was the annoying stage of the project; puttying, sanding, lots of little detail things, but only more to come.. but at least the puttying is out of the way.
 

Close up view of the place where the marquee will be resting against. I may have to trim some of the 2x2 away show the light doesnt cast a shadow.
 

Im very very happy I found this TV. This is a different TV from the one I posted before. The previous one is 20", this one is 27", and it was complete luck I stumbled upon it. Same brand, just bigger, and got it for cheaper too. Ill have to sell the old one now. When I got this TV I was very happy, and this is really the best TV i could have gotten. Well, aside from an actual arcade monitor, if I had to pick a TV from all the TVs in the world, this would be #2. My #1 would be the same size, but with an RGB hookup. This one is an SVid, but it still looks great, better than RCA, and I can deal w/o component. Ill have to raise it up slightly and secure it in.
 

The time came to make the control panel. My options were to make my own, or buy. To make my own id use my full size template, cut it out of wood, buy plexi, buy a router bit, and then cut out the plexi using the wood as a template. However I stumbled upon OCIP a company in orange county who would cut out the plexi for me for 45$ Great deal, considering buying the plexi and the bit would cost about the same. So to save time and stress, I went with OCIP. Plus it's done with lasers, so no need to make any touchups if there are any.
 

However OCIP needed a vector drawing, and that would mean id have to use my nemesis, AutoCAD. Ive used it randomly in the past, and it's just everything I hate in one package. After using Photoshop and Illustrator for so many years, ACAD is completly bassakwards. So I downloed the newest trial version, got the hang of it and drew this up in about 2hrs. I just imported the image of my drawing, and traced red lines around it. If I knew how to use ACAD, this would have taken my about 5minuts, but oh well. It's done, and worked out perfectly.
 

Ah yes, my old friend mr coin door frame. Over the holidays I asked my Uncle Mark if he has something around his workshop to cut cast iron and luckily he did. So thanks to his effot he got it cut in half and shaped it up to look very good, and I have to say im quite happy with how it came out.
 

And here we go with the door just placed in the frame. Yup yup looks good.
 

And heres come the fun part.. filling the holes and sanding.. Sanding and painting are probably me two least favorite things when it comes to building things, but what are you going to do. I first had to sand down the little ridges around the holes.
 

I bought some all purpose bondo putty, and it's not very fun to work with. The putty comes in a paint can, and then the hardener comes in a squeeze tube. Both things smell bad, and doesnt like to cooperate. Take a scoop of the putty, put a bead of the hardener in a cup, mix, and then you have 5mins to work with it. This is the first coat, just to fill the holes. It took me four mixes to go over everything.
 

Heres the second coat. Looks pretty bad. I realised after the first coat that the stuff isnt easy to get off the putty knife, so it left divits on the knife, and when spreading the second coat, it left divits. It worked out in the end, just had to batter it on more. I used four more mixes. I used one more mix to fill random misscuts and such.
 

All I can say is hurray for power tools. Hand sanding this would have been a pain. It took me about two hours to sand everything down flat. It may look bad, but its all smooth. Once painted youll never know.
 

Well I finally got the plexi in from OCIP, oddly enough they gave me two of them, and dunno why. But wasnt charged for two, so oh well. 37x18” dimension (with radiused bottom) cut from a 1/8” thick clear acrylic plexiglass sheet. 31 holes in total, one being 3-1/2” in diameter and the other 30 holes in a 1-1/8” diameter. It came out perfect.
 

I didnt feel bad about using one plexi to be used as a template since the other one still has its film on. I didnt scratch it up, but it sure is getting dirty. I lined up the plexi on the wood, leaving a bit of play room, and traced out the sides and holes.
 

Everything Marked.
 

I cut out some construction paper to fit the circle, and poked a hole through it, and this let me find the center of all the holes quite quick. Ill be using a 1-1/8" spade bit to but them out.
 

I put the control panel ontop of some junk wood to reduce the tear out, and it worked pretty well, still a bit, but not bad. I poked the center of the holes with the bit, and then drilled one by one. It took about 5 minutes. I then grabbed my jigsaw, cut out the bigger hole, and off the sides and radius.
 

And here it is all cut out, looks good yup. Still needs to be sanded, but im going to be doing that later after I get my CP supplies in as ill have to do some chisel work to fit the joysticks and trackball, so ill finish it up later.
 

Here is is with the plexi places on top, looks good. Now to just figure out the graphics to place under the plexi..
 

View from the topfront.
 

Some sideage.
 

A front shot.
 

And an angled. Yup, looks good. More detail work to come..
 

Material List and Total Cost at the moment.

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Re: Scratch Build; My First. (Updated: 1/19/10)
« Reply #23 on: January 22, 2010, 11:43:32 pm »
Control Panel supplies have been ordered! Ouf! Pricey, but this is the best price I possibly could have gotten short of buying used. Cant beat that shipping :) Ill post a break down of prices in my next big update. The bulk of the cost (a bit over $200) comes from the trackball and spinner; who knew you could charge so much for glorified mice.
 
I was originally planning to go with 3 or 4 different sellers as they carried only certain items, and some places were cheaper than others, however I was afriad of what the shipping would be, coming from 4 different places. But by some luck the owner of this webstore pointed me to his place where it had everything in one stop, so big props to him. Im hoping this all goes smoothly so I can give him a great recommendation.
 
« Last Edit: January 22, 2010, 11:46:25 pm by SephYuyX »

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Re: Scratch Build; My First. (Updated: 1/19/10)
« Reply #24 on: January 23, 2010, 06:10:22 am »
My first build I learned up and successfully hacked a kb controller and bought the US$39.95 two joysticks and 20 buttons package from xgaming.com
My last build I paid AU$230 for a mag stick, 2.5 inch track ball, ipac, optipac and 13 buttons.

Stuff the trackball, it's rubbish, I am going for the xgaming package next time and hacking another keyboard.

I.e. if you want a trackball go for a good one.

Ditching the trackball I would have saved over $100 dollars, I am still trying to work out if the coloured buttons and Magstick are worth the extra $90 bucks, ah I don't think so. I have yet to beat my high scores with the new setup. So dearer has not proved better for me.

BTW I used "Selleys Spakfilla Rapid" One wipe over with a flat spatular and then a light sand and it is done.  I used the same tub that I used for last years arcade machine build and have also used the same tub to fill several holes the kids put in the walls recently.

No mess, no stink, no fuss, lasts for more than one job. I don't know if you can get Sellies in your part of the world but "all purpose bondo putty" sounds like a nightmare.

Hope this helps.
« Last Edit: January 23, 2010, 06:37:54 pm by painterinfo »
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Re: Scratch Build; My First. (Updated: 1/19/10)
« Reply #25 on: January 23, 2010, 01:45:23 pm »
Stuff the trackball, it's rubbish, I am going for the xgaming package next time and hacking another keyboard.

Ditching the trackball I would have saved over $100 dollars, I am still trying to work out if the coloured buttons and Magstick are worth the extra $90 bucks, ah I don't think so. I have yet to beat my high scores with the new setup. So dearer has not proved better for me.

Is the trackball really that bad?  Or you just don't use it enough to be worth the money?  I've mostly heard good things about them.  Ultimarc's stuff is generally reported to be high-quality.

Most people who've had the xgaming stuff say it's crap.  Besides, for that same $40, you could go on eBay and get 2 sticks + 12 or so buttons/switches, all Happ.  Or as I'm doing, get the same stuff from GGG for slightly less.  Not sure what it's like in the UK, of course.

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Re: Scratch Build; My First. (Updated: 1/19/10)
« Reply #26 on: January 23, 2010, 04:58:54 pm »
I picked up a couple of Happ 3" trackballs and couldn't be happier with them. They were pricey, but not as much as retail (I picked em up form Tornado Terry's , who's just down the road from me).

They're real arcade quality parts and they feel like it.

Plus, they're USB, so no additional controller to buy, just plug em into a hub and go. Mame has direct support via the Multi mice settings.

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Re: Scratch Build; My First. (Updated: 1/19/10)
« Reply #27 on: January 23, 2010, 06:50:06 pm »
Is the trackball really that bad?  Or you just don't use it enough to be worth the money? 

Yea sorry, I have to wait for the bearing's "bedding-in" period before I can properly comment, it is just that if you want a track ball and yes they are expensive, my opinion is that you may as well pay a bit extra and get the best like drventure's Happ 3" trackballs. 

Let us know how the U-Trak trackball goes SephYuyX :) It looks like it has some nice features.
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Re: Scratch Build; My First. (Updated: 3/18/10)
« Reply #28 on: March 18, 2010, 10:42:23 pm »
Orz, back again.
Couldnt really do anything since the cold came, but it's been nice the past week, so did a tiny bit of work.
 
Hopefully ill be back in full swing soon.
 

Added some corner braces to the CP base for more strength.
 

Got a sheet of 6x24-7/8x.125" Diamond Plate for the bottom of the cabinet, I thought it would make it a bit more snazzy looking, and would help it from taking any extra damage.
 

Just setting it in place to see how it looks.
 

Ordered a ton of components:
.187 Female Quick Disconnects (100 pack)
8 Way Competition Joystick (Black)
4 Way MS Pac-Man/GALAGA Joystick (Red)
1 & 2 Player Pushbuttons (White)
Pushbutton Wrench
Concave Pushbutton w/ Horizontal Mircoswitch (White)
Concave Pushbutton w/ Horizontal Mircoswitch (Red)
Convex Competition Pushbutton w/ Horizontal Microswitch (Black)
I-PAC 2 Interface
SpinTrak Rotary Control Spinner w/ USB Interface
Flyweight for SpinTrak (Large)
Knob for SpinTrak (Large Red/Silver)
U-TRAK Trackball w/ USB Interface (CueBall White)
Trim Bezel for U-Trak
 

Spinner Stuff.
 

Joysticks.
 

Buttons.
 

Trackball Stuff.
 

Interface and Misc.
 

And here it is all laid out. Looks good I think at least.
 

Material List and Total Cost at the moment.

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It's that time again.
 

Had to buckle down and cut some speaker holes. I wasnt sure which direction to go with them at first. I orginally thought I would just cut out rectangle-ish, and make a cover using speaker mesh. I also thought about using some sort of unique cut out design, but in the end I figured it woulder be easiest, and also the most authentic to go the way of the traditional slot cut.
 

Took a bit of thinking to figure out how to make a perfect straight line, but I 'duh'd' a bit after when I saw the router had a straight edge, so I just clamped down a straight line, and followed it, chewing out the holes.
 

While I dont think it came out perfect, it wasnt as circlish as I would have liked, and there are some slits jumps in it, but after sanding it doesnt look too too bad.
 

Finished shot. After a little more sanding, and paint, I doubt anything will be noticable. Also going to put some speaker mesh behind it so you cant see through it, as well as something to keep the marquee light from coming out.
 

I also had to figure out a way to mount the control panel base to the cabinet; I thought about using a latch, or something, but I came up with this idea after some pondering. This furring was mainly just used for support, and it didnt even occur to me to use it in this way.
 

So what I did was just drill a hole through it, use a 3" bolt, a washer, put it through the hole, another washer, and a bolt to keep it in place. The other two nuts are used as washers, and also help it keep the base in place.
 

Pic of both of them.
 

I drilled a hole in the base, and was lucky to see how perfectly it matched up. There were a lot of things while working on this project that just worked out perfectly without any advanced planning, I couldnt have planned a lot of things better even if I wanted to.
 

When dropped down, the nuts are tight within the hole, and keep the base from moving around.
 

With another washer and wing nute, it keeps the base from popping up.
 

View of both. It really worked out perfectly, and holds flawlessly, it doesnt budge at all.
 

I waived back and forth if I should fill this gap in front, it did look quite good, however it doesnt give a finished look, so I decided to fill it up. I didnt want to use all my bondo on this huge hole, and it would be hard to get it in such a big space, so I filled it with some random caulk I found in the garage. I let it harden for more than a week, and it more or less hardened fully.
 

So I globbed the bondo over it, filling it the rest of the way, and the surrounding area. Doesnt really matter what caulk I used, the bondo just needed to use it as a mold pretty much. Itll be set in stone forever. I love bondo, going to use it on everything now.
 

Sanded it up, and looks pretty good, just needs to be smoothed down a bit.
 

The other thing I needed to finish up was the control panel. Firstly I had to fit the button holes a bit better; I was a bit sloppy in my drilling so I had to do a bit of sanding to have the mdf and plexi match up, but oh well, it fits fine now.
 

The other thing I had to do was to route out some of the back so the joysticks andstrack ball fit properly and had enough length up top. The track ball fits perfectly with the trim on, but the joysticks still may be a bit too short for some people that use an under grip to play, but im not using ball tops for 1/2p, so it shouldnt matter. Im mainly worried about the the 4 way stick up top, it has a really short shaft, so I routed out a bit more than the other two, hopefully itll be fine. The other thing Im slightly worried about the the strength of the panel now, I think itll be fine, and I can always reinforce, but with rough playing, I dunno. Ill take that in to account later.
 

In order to mount the sticks, im using T-Nuts to give it a flush front, so I had to drill out a bit of relief for it to fit, yet again another thing that may weaken it slightly, but hopefully that wont be the case. Ill have to be very cautious when hammering them in. The trackball is mounted with blind nuts, so no need to drill through that.
 

Here are the TNuts with the bolts. Some 3/4 and 1/2, and I may need to use some washers and enlarge the holes on the sticks. I just couldnt find the right bolt that would fit properly. All of this work will be finished after I get painting.
 

Yet another thing I had to figure out was how to mount the glass. I thought about various ways, but was still iffy, so I asked my uncle for an idea, and he simply suggested a frame. Duh, I think I thought about it before, but quickly wrote it off for some reason I dont remember, so it never crossed my mind again. So a frame, plus a peice of hardware pushing up against it from the back will keep it in place. Ill also need to make a bevel to go behind the glass and in front of the tv. Of which ill have to slip the tv in from the back from now on. I didnt glue down the rear panels in anticipation of maintenance.
 

My miter work has always been iffy, and I had always done it the old box and saw way, but the box went missing, so I found an old home made one and it seemed like the angles were right on it. Took a bit of time, and a lot of sanding to get everything to fit right because of the different slops, but I think it worked out.
 

I bondo'd it up, covering the nail brads, and corners, and then sanded. I may have to chisel out the back flat side a bit to get the glass to fit flush against it
 

I think it came out pretty well. I like the rounded corners better that the sharp angles too. Again, just a bit of finish sanding should do the trick.
 

Annnd I also had to figure out how to mount the control panel to the base, so I figured a piano hinge would work best. I thought about just using some random hindges, but I think this way works best, and it did. Very strong, and I only had 4 screw is out of the like 30. The front panel of the base has just enough of a gap to perfectly fit the hindge. Again one of those mistakes that worked out for the best.
 

I thought about using some sort of wire strand between the panel and base to keep it from going forward to much.. but here it is with just 4 screws, and no back support, and it's doing well, so I may not add anything. It will rarely ever be in this position anyway.
 

I then had to figure out how to keep the panel from popping up and down when playing, so again I thought of using some soft of hand applied latch, but yeah, id have to be able to get my hand underneth to get access to it, or drill a hole underneth to reach it. So the best way I figured out was to just use a blind roller latch. Mental tongue on the panel, and the roller latch on the base, and they just snap together very fluidly, and it works perfectly.
 

I had originally planned to leave the speaker panel ungluded to be taken off for maint, and easy access to the speakers and lights, but when putting the frame in, I realized that wouldnt work. So I ended up gluing it up, and bondoing the screws.
 

I had the TV in to figure out how to mount it from falling out, but when sat it, it his the back panel and keeps it in place, so I dont think Im going to be latching it down since it sits in there nicely. However another issue is, is that the angle of the screen and the angle of the cabinet wernt even so I had to raise the tv front up a bit to get them even. I toyed around with a few ways to do this.. but a simple 26"x1.5" strip of mdf holding it up does the trick no problem.
 

Just a random shot. Ive been so busy with all these little things, that it just made it kind of unfun to work on the thing. Im a very meticulous person, so instead of measure twice, cut once, its measure 20 times, think about it in different angles, then cut, and then some other stuff. So things that would take someone who does this daily 5 minutes, itll take me 2hrs. But in the end I know itll pay off. One thing ive seen with some of these homemade arcade machines is that they looked real rushed, and no real care went in to them. I wanted to make this with the best of my ability (minus a little). There would be a few things I would do differently, but nothing really enough to drive me crazy. I think it all turned out well.
 

Wait, that sounded like a wrap up. Does that mean im done? Yup, I think I am, ive completed all the construction of the cabinet. There are some slight additions ill need to add like glass retainer, a bevel, the marquee back lights, and speakers, but all those will have to be done after painting. Yes.. painting.. since im done with construction, the next step is priming after a bit more sanding.
 

And then it came down to the design.. yes the design.. something ive been thinking about before I bought the first peice of wood, however I think I finally came to a decision. I printed out the template I made, and saw that I was off, so ill have to keep that in mind. I dont know how I made this mistake when cutting the mdf to be off that much, but it should be fine.
 

This is it! Well, sort of. Just a quick mock up. A few months back I decided I wanted to go with a griffin theme, and found this really cool griffin design, but I had no idea what to use as a background. So I just was randomly looking around and realized that yeah, I like me some old japanese/chinese art, and started looking around. After awhile I managed to find this very old japanese drawing, and I think itll work out fine. Obviously I have a lot of tweeking to do, this wont be the final design, dont worrk. Plus I still have to work out the details of the control panel overlay, and the marquee. But at least I know which path im going. And a name to go with it? Ill be calling the machine, 'The Griffin'.
 

Material List and Total Cost at the moment.

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Fabulous project. I hope to do one similar soon. Are you going to be posting your blueprints and materials list? This is a great project for newcomers to look at.

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Thanks :) And I include an updated material list at the end of each post. As far as the blueprints, im not sure yet, but maybe :p

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Great job!
That Griffin artwork is going to be awesome.
27 inch Trinitron, bet your still aching from lifting that beast.
Got one myself, they do have a good picture with the svideo.

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Welp, so the time has come to prime and paint, but first comes priming, how I hate thee. Before shot.
 

After first coat. Took about an hour to do this, it just soaked up so much primer. I originally wanted to prime the whole thing.. but meh, figured id forgo that and just prime what was necessary.
 

After te second coat. Went much faster, probably 20 minutes, and most of the time was filling in the seams between panels because I didnt want to putty them. Still not sure if im going to regret that or not. Probably, but hopefully a lot of finish coats of paint will solve that. It wont be noticable anyway.
 

I have to say it looks better than staring at brown MDF, but only half way there. Now I just need to sand again, and find the right kind of paint. Some spots need a bit of heavy sanding, but nothing too bad, shouldnt take a long time.
 

Ah yes, so this is the near final verion of the side art. I say near final just because I havent asked anyone to take a look over it yet. Im pretty happy with it, so itll probably stay the same, maybe some slight changes if anything. The red line just the template. Just remembered I forgot to add the cost of the griffin to the spread sheet, oh well next time. But that whole thng was an ordea; istockphoto is a horrible company, but tend to have good artists, so i had to bite the bullet. They have tiers of credits you can buy, of course you cant buy 1 at a time, only 12, or 26, 40, etc. This one cost 20 creds, so ofcourse I would have to buy the 26 creds, wasting money. Luckily I found someone giving out 10 free creds, so only had to buy the 12 cred package for 19$ Luckily the artist was nice enough to make this two images in one, where it's possible to remove the placard. I know what youre thinking 'you didnt draw/make it' oh well, im not that good, and only 10 other people in the world have this same image, so its original enough.
 

And here is the CPO art, again, something I was worried about, but I think itll come out good. Designing arty stuff is not my strong point, but oh well, it's better than my original idea of the blue and red thing.
 

Annnd the marquee. Finding a good font was hard, but I think this one will work out good. Im not sure sure if I want to keep in that color though. After looking back at the CPO and side art, I think the marquee is lacking something, I think i may add a background to it. Theres a line between something busy, and not busy at all, but this image seems it may need some busyness.
 

Material List and Total Cost at the moment.
« Last Edit: June 28, 2010, 02:58:58 am by SephYuyX »

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Fabulous project. I hope to do one similar soon. Are you going to be posting your blueprints and materials list? This is a great project for newcomers to look at.

This is basically an Ultimate Arcade II:

http://www.mameroom.com/ProductDetail.asp?ID=UAIIPLANS

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When I first started looking around for cabinet ideas, the UAII was the design I liked best, however I didnt use any of their blueprints. I just opened up visio and started playing around till it looked fairly close with some added changes (ie, no keyboard pullout thing). Everything aside from the side panels was cut on the fly.

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: 6/28/10)
« Reply #36 on: August 02, 2010, 02:52:46 pm »
Just a small entry today, though I have moved my machine in from the garage in to the house, so it's begun the finalization steps. Ill have a bigger update this weekend probably.

In the mean time.
I planned on using Maximus Aracde as my frontend, and saw that it had the ability to run an intro movie.. so I wanted to make a simple one.

I wanted to make an intro for my arcade machine I built, and this is what I came up with. My goal was to represent some of the most iconic games, along with some of the most fun, well known, and ones that I enjoyed as well. 68 games along with my personal arcade graphics at the end.

In near order: Altered Beast, Area 51, Arkanoid, Blast Master, Bust a Move, Centipede, Chrono Trigger, Contra, Dragon Ball, Defender, Descent, Donkey Kong, Dragons Lair, Duck Hunt, Ecco, Excite Bike, Final Fantasy, Frogger, Galaga, Ghouls n Ghosts, Golden Tee, Goldeneye, Joust, Kirby, King of Fighters, Lemmings, Lufia, Mario, Mega Man, Metal Gear Solid, Metal Slug, Metroid, Missle Command, Mortal Kombat, NBA Jam, Ninja Gaiden, Off Road, PacMan, Pinball, Pitfall, Pokemon, Pong, portal, Phantasy Star, Punch Out, QBert, RType, Shinobi, Simpsons, SmashTV, Sonic, Sould Edge, Space Invaders, Star Fox, Star Wars, Street Fighter, Tecmo Super Bowl, Tekken, Tetrix, TMNT, Tron, Uniracers, Unreal, Virtual On, Worms, XMen, and Zelda.

« Last Edit: August 02, 2010, 02:54:54 pm by SephYuyX »

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: 6/28/10)
« Reply #37 on: August 02, 2010, 03:31:43 pm »
So, 2 extra minutes added to your start-up. I see that getting old pretty fast.  :afro:

SephYuyX

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: 6/28/10)
« Reply #38 on: August 02, 2010, 03:37:41 pm »
It's skippable :p I made sure of that first haha.

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: 6/28/10)
« Reply #39 on: August 02, 2010, 04:38:34 pm »
That is pretty long, you should use this one instead...


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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: 6/28/10)
« Reply #40 on: August 02, 2010, 04:42:19 pm »
It's no fun if you dont make it yourself :3 Like I said, it's skippable; so on those days I want to get to playing quick, just press a button.

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: 6/28/10)
« Reply #41 on: August 02, 2010, 10:00:45 pm »
that is almost exactly the same TV that I used for my cabinet. The only difference I can see is that it has RCA plugs on the front, and mine doesn't. They make awesome monitors. I love the picture on mine. In my opinion it is much more aesthetically pleasing than a flatscreen LCD.
-Welcome to the Fantasy Zone.

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: 8/5/10)
« Reply #42 on: August 05, 2010, 07:59:32 pm »

Primer on the base
 

Primer on the CP
 

2x Black on the base
 

2x Black on the CP.
 

2x Black on the cabinet. I let it dry for two weeks, and then I finally moved it inside of the house. It was slightly tackey to the touch, but most laytex paint will be for 30 days. Since it's inside of an airconditioned environment now, it feels nearly set
 

Black went on a lot easier thats for sure
 

I was surprized how well it covered, and theres no paint marks left anywhere. However there are a few touch ups ill need to do after everythings installed. The putty I used to cover the holes didnt come out completly flat.. but whatever, it's done
 

TV placed inside, so much effort to get this thing in and out lol, even with the back panels off, it's just a monster. I built the base of the cabinet, and tv stand extra strong, so it's not a problem, but yeah
 

26x24-3/4x1/4" Tempered Greylite #14 Glass. Not as dark as people were saying, I think itll be fine, I doubt ill have to turn the contrast up or anything. Just light enough for light to pass through, but dark enough to hide the things behind it
 

Also bought some framers matte to make a bezel out of. expensive @ 10$ but cheaper than buying it from ripoff Happ
 

This thing was kind of annoying. The material wasnt bad to work with, but trying to get all the cuts, dimensions and folds correct were
 

Folded the sides in, hopefully at the right angles
 

I cut out little triangles to fill the gaps of the corners, and hot glued them together. I took some landscaping fabric and covered the corners as well, just to make sure no light gets through.
 

Back side of the bezel
 

Front corner. Looks slightly rouch, but behind the glass.. it shouldnt be noticable
 

Front shot of it.
 

And just resting in the cabinet. I think it looks pretty good, I guess good enough for just winging it, and not making any real template
 

The next step was to get the control panel ready to go, so I put the TNuts in for the joysticks, and..
 

Started cutting out the holes in my overlay. Yup, orderd and got the graphics in last week, and im fairly happy with them, I thought the background was a bit darker.. but meh, good enough. Im just happy it's done with, and they all fit. That was my biggest concern
 

Here it is with the holes cut out, it gets rid of a lot of the white space which I planned on
 

So I took the overlay, and placed it on the CP, put the plexi on, put the buttons in, and tightened them down. The buttons keep the plexi on no problem. I think it looks prett good
 

The next step was to get them all wired up. I havent done a big wiring project like this in a few years, so my hands hated me for it. Wasnt too bad though, daisychained the negatives and ran it back on itself for a closed loop, and clamped it down in to the IPac board. 16 inputs x2 is how many I could have on this particular board. Each button and joystick movement has one wire running back to the board from the NO connection
 

I did the P2 side in green, and the P1 side in red just to make it a bit easier to tell the difference. I did P1 last because it involved a bit more work. I had to wire the P1 joystick along with the PACMAN middle joystick, nothing crazy hard, just an extra step. Just ran a wire from one joystick to the other back to the board
 

I also had to wire the two buttons next to the pacman joy to p1 buttons, and to the spinner to act as mousebuttons for the computer, so that involved a little extra wiring. As with the joystick, I had to wire the p1 and middle buttons together, but I also had to rig it to connect to a computer pin like terminal, which was a bit of a pain, but this is what I came up with
 

And here is it all wired up, nice and kind of clean.. Ill add zip ties and adhesive mounts to the thing once I connect it and make sure everythings working. It has a self test LED on it, and it seems everything is correct, but you never know
 

I then added these two boards which control the spinner and the trackbal
 

And here it is all finished from the back
 

Annnd from the front. Looks pretty good I think. Joystick just sitting in there at the moment, ill snap them in once everything is set.
 

I also screwed the coin door in finally, looks better than just the fram sitting in it. The kick plate as well. I decided to go against drilling in to it, so I just used double sided sticky tape, and thats working quite well.
 

The marquee retainer here is also just held on via sticky tape. I also cut it very tight, so it shouldnt go anywhere.
 

And here it is with the marquee in, yup yup, that looks good too. I made it so it would be slightly big, and ordered the plexi that way too, so I had to do a little snipping to it.
 

Pull back view of the three new things installed
 

Of course in order to light up the marquee, you need lights. LED lights. No cold tubs for this. These should last longer, and fit the bill fine.
 

Here it is installed, as well as with the speakers in with more double sided tape
 

The black stuff is some of my dads landscaping material he uses, and id figure it would be perfect to keep the light from coming out of the speaker grills, but also let the sound through no problem. Seems to work fine.
 

Here are the coin lights wired up in parallel, simple enough. I actually had to get new lights, the old ones looked fine, but they didnt light up. Luckily there is an arcade vendor not too far away, and ive used them to buy a couple of things, and they gave me 6 lights for free, was very pleased. The marquee and coins lights are hooked up to my PCs power supply via molex.
 

Here's the cabinet all lit up
 

Back of the marquee
 

Annnd.. doh, shadows. I had not taken in to account the casting of shadows from the furring, but uh, yeah. I half care, half dont, it looks good, but I guess I can shave down the inside a bit I guess.
 

Back of the coin door
 

Front of the coin door
 

Material List and Total Cost at the moment

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: 8/5/10)
« Reply #43 on: August 06, 2010, 07:53:49 am »
Wow, now that's what you call an update!  :applaud: You'll need to take care of those shadows in the marquee, or it'll slowly make you crazy.

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: 8/5/10)
« Reply #44 on: August 06, 2010, 10:06:19 am »
With respect to the shadows, I had pretty much the same problem (for a different reason) and was able to fix it with a few strategically placed LEDs.

Endaar

EDIT: Fixed grammar.
« Last Edit: August 06, 2010, 12:51:12 pm by Endaar »

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: 8/5/10)
« Reply #45 on: August 06, 2010, 10:56:27 am »
Yeah.. it is starting to drive me nuts already, any suggestions on fixing it?

Chipping away the furring isnt really an option for a few reasons.. but I can always move lighting around. With GroovyGamerGear's new LINX LED light, it should be pretty easy. I was originally thinking of arranging them in a U or V shape, hoping that may work, but I could Just take one of the sections on each side and face it in.. I dunno.

Suggestions are welcome.

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: Aug/08/2010)
« Reply #46 on: August 09, 2010, 06:20:52 pm »

Minor addition today. So how to fix the shadow issue on the marquee? Well, A hammer and a chisel, thats how. I didnt really want to take out the support and replace them with L brackets, it would have caused more damage trying to get the things out, so I opted for this route.
 

It looks ugly, but gets the job done. Some screw exposure there, but the thing is also glued down tight as well, it's not going anywhere (or so I say now).
 

Pretty good I think, could make it look a bit better.. but not worth the trouble when it's barely this noticable now.
 

I also spent some time getting down to the software side of things. Ive been customizing the front end which makes all the emulators and games run seemlessly, and also getting proper working emulators for the games I have.
 
At the moment I have every game ever made for: Atari 2600, Atari 5200, Atari 7800, Atari 400/800/800XL, Atari Jaguar, Atari Lynx, Atari ST, ColecoVision, MAME, Mattel Intellivision, MSX, MSX2, NEC Turbo-Grafx-16 / NEC PC Engine, Nintendo Entertainment System, Nintendo Super NES, Nintendo 64, Nintendo Gameboy, Nintendo Gameboy Color, Nintendo Gameboy Advance, Sega Genesis, Sega 32X, Sega Game Gear, Sega Master System, and SNK Neo-Geo.
 
So those are out of the way. Ill also be getting Virtual Boy, Vectex, and Nintendo DS, as well as some pinball games.
 
What's left is 3D0, CD-i, TG-CD, Sega CD, Dreamcast, PS1, GameCube, Xbox, and PSP. However with these I wont be getting all the games. Their file sizes range roughly from 300~700mb+ and ive about 60gb left to spare, and dont really feel like getting another hdarddrive yet, even though theyre dirt cheap. I really dont want all those games anyway, as there are only about ~10 real good ones per each anyway.
 

By the way, for those who are still wondering, or asking me where I got the graphics from, who did them, etc.
 
I got the background off of google, it is a 3000x50000 pixel 16-century japanese handscroll entitled Hyakki Yakō ひゃっきやこのず 百鬼夜行図 by Tosa Mitsuoki. It roughly means "Night Parade of One Hundred Demons".
 
This scroll was horrid to work worth, very weathed, differential marks everywhere, etc, if I didnt know how to use PhotoShop (and the new content aware tool) I probably wouldnt have even bother trying to work with it. It looks completly different from the original now.
 
As far as the griffin goes, it's done by a German vector artist named Denis Zorin, whos only given it to about 10 other people, he was also nice enough to add the placard as well, so that I could have it in some pieces, and not in others. While it's not the best depiction of a griffin, I think it looks quite good.
 
So, with these two images in hand, I took about a week or so in photoshop and had at it. Made lots of different things, but finally ended up with the images you see. The fonts were found randomly on the web. So no, I didnt pay someone to make these for me, I did all the work (yes, moving and minipulating can be very hard), and then sent them to be printed out.
 
 
 
 
 
ETA on Completion? Cabinet: End of week. Software: End of next. Though ill be on vaction for the next few days here, I think it'll get done. Either way, I will be finished by the end of the month no problem.

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: Aug/08/2010)
« Reply #47 on: August 09, 2010, 11:24:57 pm »
Hey Seph - I am considering those speakers for my cab...how do you like them? Would you have gone with something else? Have you taken apart the "Puck" or did you mount that somewhere?
I am on the fence between those Logictechs and the Altec Lansing VS2521's

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: Aug/08/2010)
« Reply #48 on: August 09, 2010, 11:37:36 pm »
Cant say for sure yet, I plugged them in on my main PC to test them out initially and they sound fine. I hooked them up to my mame machine recently too, to see how my intro vid sounds on them, and again they sounded decent. Obiviously at only 10$ they arent the best.. but Ihavent really noticed anything bad about them, maybe some bad quaility if you turn them up all the way.

As far as the volume control knob thingy, I plan on just double side taping it to the back side of my cab, but I havent yet, so I may change it to somewhere else, maybe run it under in to my cp base.

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: Aug/11/2010)
« Reply #49 on: August 10, 2010, 10:12:17 pm »

Got the TMolding in today, now I can finally put the side art on. Three 20ft coils, 3/4" thick, Black leather.
 

Close up of the 'leather'. It just has little grooves in it really, but better than plain. I was wavering between gray and this, and just decided to go with this.
 

Here is my CP all finished now since I have the tmolding on.
 

Close up of the P1 side
 

Close up of the P2 side.
 

Annnnnnd tada, it went on flawlessly, no bubbles, nothing. It looks great. I made it so it would be oversized, so I just lined everything up to look good, and then trimmed off the sides leaving a bit of overhang that I folded over and put the TMolding overtop.
 

Closer shot. The Tmolding was a bit of a pain to get on, but mstly the bottom part, but it looks very nice.
« Last Edit: August 11, 2010, 10:35:05 am by SephYuyX »

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: Aug/11/2010)
« Reply #50 on: August 10, 2010, 10:44:10 pm »
Awesome!  ;D

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: Aug/11/2010)
« Reply #51 on: August 11, 2010, 10:02:24 am »
Really looking great! Why was the t-molding a problem? Was it because you did not route it deep enough or something?

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: Aug/11/2010)
« Reply #52 on: August 11, 2010, 10:37:44 am »
It was deep enough, but a few spots the router lifted on my slightly, so I had to shift the TMolding spine a bit, or in some cases hot glue it down as it took a chunk of wood out when I was routing. I also forgot that the bottom would be tight since im using 2/4 molding, on 5/8 wood, so I had to shave some of it down to fit. But the molding cuts like butter with a sharp blade.

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: Aug/19/2010)
« Reply #53 on: August 19, 2010, 05:01:11 pm »

Finally time to put the last pieces in, the glass and bezel. Went in fairly easy, fits snug against the molding, and four angle brackets hold it in place
 

Back view. Pretty simple installation
 

This is a shot with the TV in, looks jet black and cant see anything behind it. The tint hides everything behind it very well
 

However it's not tinted so much the screen cant be seen when it's on. This was one of my bigger worries when I ordered the glass, but it came out great. I didnt need to touch the contrast or anything. Pitch black when off, perfectly viewable when on
 

The bezel fits it fairly well too, ever so slightly off, but good enough for being home made
 

Ta da, almost finished. Just a few more touches to do on the cabinet itself, the rest will be all software which should take a day or two, but thats also a never ending aspect of a mame

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: Aug/19/2010)
« Reply #54 on: August 19, 2010, 07:06:26 pm »
That is looking excellent!

Very tidy job ;)

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: Aug/19/2010)
« Reply #55 on: August 20, 2010, 12:56:19 am »
Well done.  The bezel actually turned out nicely.  Don't worry about the stuff you can't see.
On the other side of the screen, it all looks so easy.  -Kevin Flynn

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: Aug/19/2010)
« Reply #56 on: August 23, 2010, 12:07:06 am »
I just uploaded this as a reference.
In most early 1990 and on Namco arcade machines, they would have a voice say something at the initial boot up. In the case of Tekken and a few others "Good Morning" was used.

This is a sound clip from Tekken 1 and 2, Tekken 3, and Tekken Tag. 

Uploading this since I couldnt find it anywhere when I wanted to add it to my arcade introduction, so i just recorded it myself



As far as the build goes: Im about 98% done at the moment; the cabinet is finished, just needs touching up, and my emulator list is over 40 with about 60,000 games, but need a couple more.

Finish pics and a video by next weekend hopefully.

Thanks for all your comments.
« Last Edit: August 23, 2010, 12:09:09 am by SephYuyX »

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: Aug/19/2010)
« Reply #57 on: August 23, 2010, 12:26:13 am »
Very impressive... How did you go about getting all the roms and setting up the emulators with your control panel?
Thanks,
Mike
--------------------------------------

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: Aug/19/2010)
« Reply #58 on: August 23, 2010, 10:37:53 am »

I had no clue George Takei recorded the third "good morning"!

 :D

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: Aug/19/2010)
« Reply #59 on: August 23, 2010, 12:15:32 pm »
It just needs his little 'aAaahhhH..' in there.

Very impressive... How did you go about getting all the roms and setting up the emulators with your control panel?
Just had to go to each emulator and set up the inputs. Since CPs use keyboard interface boards, all I have to do is click which key I wanted to use. For example SW5 corresponds with Z, so If I wanted to use SW5 I just told the emulator that when I press the letter Z, I want it to emulate the A button.

As far as the roms.. ive been playing with roms/emulation since dreamcast was found out that it could run emulators. So since then ive collected a good size rom base. The whole MAME thing was new to me though, and im still not finished learning all about the different stuff regarding that, most noteably the update process, but im almost there. Obtaining them was just a lot of googeling and torrenting.

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: Aug/19/2010)
« Reply #60 on: August 27, 2010, 01:14:49 am »

So, refocused on getting back to the software aspect of the arcade.. and I seriously underestimated the amount of effort and time needed to get things running.
 
44 consoles (3 of those being flash games, pc games (SF4 and BBCS), and arcade games (near half of the size and files come from mame), 52GB worth of files, and around 43,000 games, and will just keep growing at this point lol. For most of these systems I have all the games, but like I said earllier, some of the systems games are just too big to have all of them. Right now I just have 1 ps2 game, 1 ps1 game, a couple DC games, etc, just to get things working.
 
Ive been using emulators formany many years, so finding ways to obtain them wasnt an issue, and I thought getting them to work would be just as easy. Nintendo, Sony, and Sega systems were easy to set up, only a few minutes each, however the rest of these legacy consoles.. ouch. It was hard to find a good emulator to use for them, the bios files werent too bad, but getting things to all work properly together was a different issue.
 
Getting the emulator and games to work is one thing, but to get them to work smoothly and seemlessly with the arcade front end so that it looks and runs flawlessly is another thing. Some emulators arent too friendly being ran via frontend, and there was a lot of trial and error, but maximus arcade the front end im using, made it a bit more easy that it would have been.
 
So all in all.. getting the software side of things to work took much longer than I thought, it took at least 40hrs, and sadly im not completly done yet. While everything is running probably, I still have to do a bit of controller configuring, but that shouldnt be too bad.

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: Aug/19/2010)
« Reply #61 on: August 27, 2010, 07:10:13 am »
Hahaha!

Yeah I know exactly what you mean, then after you get it all working, you might want to setup favourites lists for each emu so you can find things a little easier, guests and youngsters will also benefit from this!

Its pretty much an ongoing thing, a refining process you will probably find that you remove certain emulators to make the master menu a little less cluttered.


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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: Aug/19/2010)
« Reply #62 on: August 27, 2010, 10:14:13 am »
Yeah, I thought about doing that, I figure ill do it as I come along the games I play and add them then. Ive got a list of things to do, but none of them super important must get them done.

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Re: "The Griffin" - Finished August 28, 2010!
« Reply #63 on: August 28, 2010, 03:09:24 pm »
Im finally finished!
 

Buttoned up the back. I think I mentioned earllier that I glued up the top board since I dont think Ill ever need to get in it. When the middle and lower boards were off it was easy enough to get to everything, adds more stability too. The middle board is mainly for support, I really didnt need it there, but it does help block the marquee light. The bottom board holds the TV from falling out
 

Yup, back of TV
 

Bottom of it; PC and woofer with the wires all ran and looking pretty. Need to find a good surge protector, but other than that
 

Full view of the back, hopefully never to be seen again for quite some time
 

Finished shot of the marquee
 

Finished shot of the bottom looking down
 

Finished shot of the control panel
 

Finished shot of the bottom half
 

Finished shot from the front
 

Finished shot of the side art.
 

Final cost sheet. I originally figured around $1k, so 1.25 isnt too bad. I dont forsee many more costs to it aside from some maint in the distant future. Aside from that I plan on buying a good surge protector, and probably a controller, so itll end up being $1.3k. Not bad I think.
 
I really wish I kept track of the time I worked on this thing. The building took me on and off over a year, because I didnt have a solid game plan, had to wait on parts/etc, couldnt work during some of the colder parts of the year, laziness, busy with other things, etc.. If I had everything together, materials, plans, etc.. It would probably have taken me two or three work weeks at most. No reason for the whole project to go over a month.
 
Im also a very meticulous person, so it was measure 50 times, mark a line, measure 20 times, start to cut, check 10 more times, then cut. I hadnt done a major woodworking project like this in many years, so I had to relearn a few things, redo a few things, etc. So if I had to do it again, it wouldnt be a problem at all.
 
But would I want to do it again? Not any time soon hahaha, and I would do pretty much everything differently.
 
I think the next time I do something like this itll be for my home theater/game room, and then I may build another, but building a room solely for a HT is huge project within itself.
 

Finished shot of it. Ignore the dog! Next to my dads juke box that he rebuilt from scrap many a year ago.
 

Close up final shot. Yup yup, finally all finished and done. Looks good. A love/hate project, but very happy with it in the end. Im glad I decided to build this
 

Cover shot.

Silas (son of Silas)

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Re: "The Griffin" - Finished August 28, 2010!
« Reply #64 on: August 28, 2010, 04:51:35 pm »
I really like the way this turned out. The artwork is excellent and really pulls the finished cab together. The CP is so cool. A cab to be proud of.
" ਜਿਹੜਾ ਲਾਓ ਜਰਦਾ ਉਹ ਸੌ ਸਾਲ ਨੰਈ ਮਰਦਾ " (he who chews tobacco would live to be a hundred )

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JohnEDollar

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Re: "The Griffin" (Updated: Aug/19/2010)
« Reply #65 on: August 28, 2010, 06:31:07 pm »

 
44 consoles (3 of those being flash games, pc games (SF4 and BBCS), and arcade games (near half of the size and files come from mame), 52GB worth of files, and around 43,000 games, and will just keep growing at this point lol.

What?? No Commodore 64, or Amiga games on the cab?   ???

But seriously, SephYuyX, congrats on an excellent cab!!!  :cheers:  The artwork truly makes it a unique "work of art".

So what if it took over a year to build....  You have a cab you can be proud of for YEARS to come!   :applaud: :applaud:


- John

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Re: "The Griffin" - Finished August 28, 2010!
« Reply #66 on: August 28, 2010, 06:58:54 pm »
Thanks guys :p

I did look in to getting some Commodore stuff, but couldnt justify their file sizes lol. The day I put a new HD in to hold more games ill go back and rethink :p

SephYuyX

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Re: "The Griffin" - Finished August 28, 2010!
« Reply #67 on: August 29, 2010, 10:38:00 am »
Walkthrough:


Slideshow:

MriswitH

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Re: "The Griffin" - Finished August 28, 2010!
« Reply #68 on: August 29, 2010, 06:51:07 pm »
Looooove the cab! Really great craftsmanship and I especially love the graphics!

dawolv

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Re: "The Griffin" - Finished August 28, 2010!
« Reply #69 on: August 29, 2010, 11:47:39 pm »
Congratulations!! Great Job  :applaud:

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Re: "The Griffin" - Finished August 28, 2010!
« Reply #70 on: August 30, 2010, 02:40:05 am »
The artwork is very different, me like me like! :-)

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Re: "The Griffin" - Finished August 28, 2010!
« Reply #71 on: October 19, 2010, 07:19:58 pm »
Awesome, awesome job.  I finally had some time to read through your entire project.  At first glance it look like the UAII kit until I realized you built it from scratch BASED on them.  Kudos!

Care to share your Maximus Arcade skin with the community?  You can dump it to the file repository here on BYOAC and then post it in the Maximus Arcade section.

Again, great job!

DeLuSioNaL29
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Re: "The Griffin" - Finished August 28, 2010!
« Reply #72 on: October 19, 2010, 09:42:46 pm »
Awesome job there!
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

SephYuyX

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Re: "The Griffin" - Finished August 28, 2010!
« Reply #73 on: December 06, 2010, 11:43:42 am »
Thanks guys, I really appreciate it.

Still a few software things I want to do, but lack of time prevents me from doing so, and I need a break from the thing, as im sure some of you scratch builders can understand haha.

Made a PDF of all the pictures/descriptions from those who are interested. It's just basically all the content from my posts in a nice PDF.
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=PXRIJAR6
Wait 60 Seconds
Click 'Regular Download'

jipp

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Re: "The Griffin" - Finished August 28, 2010!
« Reply #74 on: December 06, 2010, 08:51:57 pm »
looks great.  i built the same cab.  i found it interesting how two people can build the same cab totally d different.  i guess that goes to show you how that leaves the instructions to be interpreted when its just measurements.. and not much else.. great looking cab.. wish i would of used MDF instead of OSB..  proof is in the pudding, and your cab rocks.

chris.

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Re: "The Griffin" - Finished August 28, 2010!
« Reply #75 on: April 21, 2011, 04:53:12 am »
I love the build, Ive just started my own and I'm in the process of designing the control panel, Ive been trying to create a layout I like and cant seem to get it quite right. Ive just seen your control panel and Its exactly what Ive been trying to do (Apart from where the buttons are in relation to the 4 way stick and spinner)

In previous posts you said that you did your original design in Photoshop and then did it in Autocad. I was wondering if you still had those drawings and If you would be willing to share them.

Thanks

Sorry for posting in an oldish post, but for some reason I couldn't send you a private message.