A New Hope... "When you came in here didn't you have a plan for getting out?"

[RetroACTIVE]

[I'm waiting on 1/4"x1/8" foam tape for that as well as the control panel.  The foam tape is used along the edge of the marquee frame where the glass rests and along the inside edge of the control panel...

Where did you get the foam tape?  My Centipede had that on the back edge of the control panel

Ahh... good question... this stuff was a real pain to locate... I first thought mcmaster... but most of what they had was double sided...

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com

38-8608     $4.69       1     SELF ADHESIVE FOAM TAPE - 1/8 IN. X 1/4 IN. X 17 FT.

I haven't received it yet... should be here today... I'll let you know if its the right stuff.

[ChadTower]

I thought that was just standard stuff you can get at any craft store?

[RetroACTIVE]

I thought that was just standard stuff you can get at any craft store?

Certainly could be... and shame on me for not checking... I just do so much on line (with the exception of the hardware store)... I rarely shop.

[ChadTower]

At least you didn't order a "specialized part" and pay $50 for it.   

[RetroACTIVE]

At least you didn't order a "specialized part" and pay $50 for it.   

... I can say I've not made that mistake yet... I came close a few times early on in the hobby... now I'm  usually more cautious... NOS stuff still usually kills you but most hardware and ancillary stuff is usually no big deal.

[RetroACTIVE]

Had chance to do a little work... I replaced the marquee light bulb only to find I needed a starter... of course Home Depot had every friggin' starter but the one I needed (BTW...  I hate Home Depot)... so across the street to Lowes and voila!

Besides that here are some pics of the foam tape... works well.. its a little firm for the marquee though... seems to push on the glass causing a bump in the decal... I'm hoping it will relax as time goes by...




I stripped and painted the marquee bracket:


Application of foam tape... nothing spectacular...






Here is the tape along the perimeter of the control panel...







"You know sometimes I amaze even myself"  (not realy... just like the comment)

[RetroACTIVE]

Getting close to wrapping this up!... I need some locks for the coin and vault door and a new set of mathbox proms... all on their way

Here are some final shots...

New marquee... as you can see it worked out fine... there are absolutely no bumps or ridges... so the foam strips are good to go...


Closeup shot of the "cockpit"...


Full shots of front and side...



Innards... not "rusty"


New clean base and PS block..


ARII and board cage..


Clean rebuilt 6100 deflection...


Just about ready to wrap this up...



"I don't think you boys can help"

[ChadTower]

That's really sweet.  Nice job!   

[Level42]

Amazing, better than new !

 



 If you're not replacing the fan, it could use some dusting/compressed air though (Amazing how tiny things strike you when all other things look so tight.)

[RetroACTIVE]

Amazing, better than new !

 



 If you're not replacing the fan, it could use some dusting/compressed air though (Amazing how tiny things strike you when all other things look so tight.)

Definitely on my list as I've already hit it once... as you can see some of the dust in on the floor... I do intend on cleaning it profusely... I just wanted to get it in and get it fired up to see what was left to do...  It was originally so dirty it looked like it was growing moss

The absolute last thing I will get to... (sure) is to touch up the artwork along the base...

[Level42]

It's probably just the flash that makes it show really

I'm now installing the T-molding on my cockpit and it seems that when you replace/improve the worst looking part, another part that didn't catch your eye before takes it's place. I only now notice how (relatively) poor the metal retainers of the canopy and backglass are

[Ninten-doh]

Question for those of you who have taken apart the yokes to rebuild...

How do you get the roll pins out of the inner handles?  I disassembled both handles, but can't slide off the inner part of the handles because of the damn roll pins.   

[ChadTower]

You guys are setting the bar really high here.  I'm going to have to go all out on mine when I get to it.   

[RetroACTIVE]

Question for those of you who have taken apart the yokes to rebuild...

How do you get the roll pins out of the inner handles?  I disassembled both handles, but can't slide off the inner part of the handles because of the damn roll pins.   

Actually mine had no roll pins... only set screws.  Must be a different rev.

[RetroACTIVE]

You guys are setting the bar really high here.  I'm going to have to go all out on mine when I get to it.   

Can't wait ... I still owe you some info... its coming soon.  I've got all the blocking done I am still transcribing the panel detail... you probably don't need these...





"Commander tear this ship apart, until you've found those plans! Bring me the passengers!  I want them alive!"

[RetroACTIVE]

Good old mathbox problems are now a thing of the past!  The board was failing tests 18 and 20D of the matrix processor tests.  Turned out to be a bad LS165 of the 'A' register, IC 7A.  I went and replaced all 4 (6A, 7A, 6B, 7B) of them as they were of the same date code.

Now I'm back on the monitor.  It's too damned bright!  I cannot turn it down enough.  It's leaving green connecting vectors and a decent green dot in the center.  I've read of a couple solutions...anyone had to deal with this?


"No reward is worth this."

[RetroACTIVE]

Ok... You know that little adjustment on the HV unit called "SCREEN"?... that was it... derr.  Maybe it would have been better if it were labeled "TRY THIS YOU F'N IMBECILE!"... nah not today...

I'm now waiting on the HV cage cover to help eliminate some screen "jitters".

I still could tweak the x-y analog board adjustments and I will but for now... I'm calling this done!




"The force will be with you.... always."

[Level42]

Question for those of you who have taken apart the yokes to rebuild...

How do you get the roll pins out of the inner handles?  I disassembled both handles, but can't slide off the inner part of the handles because of the damn roll pins.   

Actually mine had no roll pins... only set screws.  Must be a different rev.

Mine has the roll pins but they sure didn't prevent the covers from coming loose of the handles. You did loosen the screws on the inside of the handles that hold the covers right (since we're talking obvious things here anyway ) ?


Or do you mean these:


Just read about this on the Jamma+ forum. My handles don't have that extra hole !

[RetroACTIVE]

My yoke does not have a 3rd hole as shown in Level42's pic.  It only has the two larger ones for the set screws.

The funny thing is the axle does not even have an indent or a hole to receive the pin... and the documentation illustrates at least one set screw and one pin.

[Ninten-doh]

Or do you mean these:

Yep, those are the ones.  I just bought the tool to punch the pins out, but haven't tried it yet.

[Level42]

My yoke does not have a 3rd hole as shown in Level42's pic.  It only has the two larger ones for the set screws.

The funny thing is the axle does not even have an indent or a hole to receive the pin... and the documentation illustrates at least one set screw and one pin.

Just to be clear: That's not my handle on that picture. My handles only has the two holes.  Quite incidentally the same question came up on a thread on Jamma+ forum and I stole the picture from there.

http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14688&PN=1

It also has the answer what is in that third hole:


A slotted spring pin...

[RetroACTIVE]

Just to be clear: That's not my handle on that picture. My handles only has the two holes.  Quite incidentally the same question came up on a thread on Jamma+ forum and I stole the picture from there.

... never thought it was your pic specifically... your pics are far too fancy!

[RetroACTIVE]

Ok... I had Rich at TOG print me up the back door sheet... It came from http://vectorlib2.free.fr/BackDoorSheet/ which is not perfect but it printed very well and its on good heavy stock... it looks great!  I did not have one to begin with and as with most of these things they are usually missing or just messed up... so I'll take the defects in the scan just fine

[JeffC]

Man!!! I just stubled on this thread from your sig at KLOV. What a fantastic resto job and documentation. I read every post and really enjoyed it. I love how it starts off...."I'm taking a minimalist approach to this resto" or something similar.  It seemed an all out resto to me. One thing I was glad to see....and another I'll be awaiting updates on:

The masking up to your art and the painting: I'm currently restoring a Quantum and am doing something similar. The cab had some strange bumpiness along the edges of the sides...almost all the way around. It was like very slight water damage, but all the way around all edges of the particle board. I almost thought it might have been stored somewhere very humid and absorbed moisture. Anyway, it was very slight but bothered me enought that I sanded all of the edges to flatten the bumps. I'm trying to preserve the art of course, and am going to mask around it, and just spray the white. And like you, I did some touch up to my Star Wars side art, but mostly left the small dings. That specific art is one of the most forgiving, as any small ding looks like all of the other stars and dots on the art.

The monitor replacement: I have all of the amp set-up that I need, but my tube has a small burn hole. I've also got one of the extremely well packed amp tubes from Canada. I've read enough about converging to be frightened...so I'll be keeping an eye on your progress before diving in myself.

Anyway, I digressed a bit... I really appreciate this thread. Excellent job on the Star Wars.

[Level42]

Please tell me that Rich did a couple of those backdoor sheets.....I need one ! (Are the upright and cockpit the same actually ?)....

JeffC, as long as you follow the steps in the Amplifone manual, you'll be fine with the converging. It's one of those things you can only learn by trying it.

I still intend to make a video how to converge an Amplifone........one day........

[RetroACTIVE]

Please tell me that Rich did a couple of those backdoor sheets.....I need one ! (Are the upright and cockpit the same actually ?)....

I think they are different... but not entirely sure... as the content would be the same regardless.

I still intend to make a video how to converge an Amplifone........one day........

... you may want to stay tuned 

Anyway, I digressed a bit... I really appreciate this thread. Excellent job on the Star Wars.

Thanks Jeff!

[Ninten-doh]

Hey guys,
I'm getting ready to start my own SW restoration over the July 4th weekend, and I have everything prepared -- I think -- except for one piece of the cabinet.  It's the top piece of wood that fits between the marquee and the vented/angled piece on the back.  Any chance I can get some pics and measurements?  Thanks!   

[RetroACTIVE]

Hey guys,
I'm getting ready to start my own SW restoration over the July 4th weekend, and I have everything prepared -- I think -- except for one piece of the cabinet.  It's the top piece of wood that fits between the marquee and the vented/angled piece on the back.  Any chance I can get some pics and measurements?  Thanks!   

I'll see what I can do (if I can drum up some spare moments) ... I'll have to remove the marquee to get those numbers... 

[Ninten-doh]

I'll have to remove the marquee to get those numbers... 

Crap.  I was afraid of that.    

As you can imagine, I would be REALLY appreciative!   

[RetroACTIVE]

I'll have to remove the marquee to get those numbers... 

Crap.  I was afraid of that.    

As you can imagine, I would be REALLY appreciative!   

Is this OK?

[Ninten-doh]

Perfect!  Thank you so much.   

[RetroACTIVE]

I've stared to do the amplifone rebuild ... here is the HV board... Now I'm not going to take credit for the resistor mod... Level42 gave me the idea... so I'm simply riding his coat tails...

These are TO220 power resistors... 30W 50 Ohm.  You can see in the pic how badly burned the board was from the old mod... We'll see how it works...




Here is the solder side ... everything re-flowed...some bad pads had to be dealt with on the regulators.  I also added some heavy guage on the one trace that was pretty much cooked off the board from the old resistor heat!


New flyback... and all cleaned up ready to go...


I"ve the deflection board about finished...

[ChadTower]

Nice job.  I usually jump those traces with wire rather than risk heating the trace and delaminating it even more.  I seem to see that more on much smaller traces, though.  What you did looks pretty nice!

[Level42]

Wish I had seen those TO220 resistors before I did my mod !!!! Looks sweet ! 30W seems an awful lot of power for such a tiny package, I guess it really depends on the used heat-sink what the real wattage is. At least it is well over the 5W that Atari used.

I hope the heat will go into the heat-sink mostly, as the only doubt I have about this set-up is that the TO-220's are pretty close to the caps.....

No other way then to try it I guess

[m_mcgover]

@Spy - Do you have a link to the TO220 resistors?  Or some extras for sale?  I'd like to pick up 4 for my 2 HV PCBs...

Thanks!

[RetroACTIVE]

@Spy - Do you have a link to the TO220 resistors?  Or some extras for sale?  I'd like to pick up 4 for my 2 HV PCBs...

Thanks!

Here you go: Mouser #684-MP930-50

[RetroACTIVE]

I hope the heat will go into the heat-sink mostly, as the only doubt I have about this set-up is that the TO-220's are pretty close to the caps.....

No other way then to try it I guess

The back side of the package is exposed ceramic... and I'm betting on the size of that aluminum heat sink to spread the heat well enough... and the cooling fan of course... but like you said... we'll see