Pac-man restoration - Return from Doh!

[Spyridon]

I must have a thing for Arkanoid conversions.  Picked up two in one day.


See my Centipede restoration for what's going on with the Arkanoid.  The Arkanoid: Revenge of Doh! will be converted back to Pac-man.

Here is what I am starting with:





Nothing left of Pacman on the inside and I'll need to fix the monitor.  Paid $90 for the cab.  The Arkanoid board works, I tested it in my Arkanoid machine (yes...I have an Arkanoid in my collection).  According to the seller, everything was working until the monitor went out on him.

Here's what I've done so far:

1. Purchased a new overay from TNT Amusements ($20 shipped)

2. Purchased a bezel in excellent shape from a KLOV member ($125 shipped)

3. Swapped the Arkanoid control panel with a KLOV member for a Pac-man control panel - I could have repaired the holes on this one, but swapping makes the job easier. Plus the new owner was looking for a Doh CP. ($ No charge)


4. Purchased transformer assembly and wire harness from TNT Amusements ($19.99 + $15 shipping)

5. Purchased a working PCB from a KLOV member ($90 shipped)

6. Purchased a joystick and complete harness from a KLOV member ($18 shipped) - this was before I did the CP swap, so now I have an extra
7. Purchased a marquee from Quarter Arcade ($30 shipped)

8. Purchased a Pacpower adaptor kit from Bob Roberts to use a switching power supply ($17)
9. Purchased miscelaneous items from Bob Roberts - new power cord, WG K4600 cap kit (hopefully fixes my monitor issue), new carriage bolts ($14.25)

I should have everything I need to convert this back into a working Pac-man. All the cosmetic work will be done when the weather gets better. I'm still working on a stencil solution for the artwork.  Also, still need to order the orange t-molding.

I'm estimating it's probably going to cost me about $600 (not including labor) to have a mint condition pac-man. Yes, I could probably find a nice one for slightly less but I enjoy the restoration process.

Converting a classic back to it's former glory...Priceless

[Spyridon]

Haven't installed any of the guts yet, but it sure does look better already

[Spyridon]

Never saw these types of bulbs used in an arcade game before.  Guess the previous owner didn't want to have to change the bulbs for a long time.

[shred5]

Bravo for all the games you have been restoring and converting back.... So refreshing to see with all the people who have been trashing and parting games.

Dave

[orion]

I have a Pacman that was in about that same condition when I got it. I would say that by far the artwork was the most challenging aspect of it. I am tempted to do a stencil in the future but I think it looks fine as is,  Given the total cost I would not undertake such a project in the future. I have those florescent bulbs in my machines. I like how little heat they produce as well as the lumins you get for the wattage...and that they will last for at least seven years.

[orion]

Just curious, why would you use a switching power supply when you have all that you need in the transformer assembly? Mine seems quite reliable to me. The Pac boards step the power down on the board itself.

[Spyridon]

Orion - that Pac-man looks great.  Especailly when sitting next to a nice Galaxian.  What did you use for the side art?

Just curious, why would you use a switching power supply when you have all that you need in the transformer assembly? Mine seems quite reliable to me. The Pac boards step the power down on the board itself.

Yeah, I ordered this before I did some research on the pac-man setup.  I thought it was like most of my other games and had a seperate power supply that needed to be connected.  If everything works without the switcher, I probably won't use this, however, I know some people have said that pac-man is the one game they always put a switcher in because of problems.  I think I'll hang onto it and only use it if needed down the line.

[Spyridon]

Bravo for all the games you have been restoring and converting back.... So refreshing to see with all the people who have been trashing and parting games.

Dave

Thanks!  I like to preserve them as much as I can.  Sometimes I feel like just buying a game that doesn't need any work and all I have to do is play, but once the restore is finished it gives you a really good feeling knowing everything you put into it.  Plus, I'm not doing this to flip and sell.  These are keepers for me.

[orion]

Orion - that Pac-man looks great.  Especailly when sitting next to a nice Galaxian.  What did you use for the side art?

Just curious, why would you use a switching power supply when you have all that you need in the transformer assembly? Mine seems quite reliable to me. The Pac boards step the power down on the board itself.

Yeah, I ordered this before I did some research on the pac-man setup.  I thought it was like most of my other games and had a seperate power supply that needed to be connected.  If everything works without the switcher, I probably won't use this, however, I know some people have said that pac-man is the one game they always put a switcher in because of problems.  I think I'll hang onto it and only use it if needed down the line.

Thanks for the complement! You always do such great work on all you cabs, and I am truly in awe of you talent. The Galaxian does need some work however... the side art is all dinged to hell and I haven't come up with a solution to it.  I don't want to replace it with a sticker like I had to do on the front.  I'm not sure why people have had problems with the pac man power supply... it's just a transformer.... those things are kind of hard to kill. Oh and check you PM.

[Mauzy]

with the pac man power supply... it's just a transformer.... those things are kind of hard to kill.

Not meaning to jump in the middle here, but I agree with you on that. I still used the original brick in my Ms Pac. Gives a steadier voltage than any SMPS I have!

[orion]

with the pac man power supply... it's just a transformer.... those things are kind of hard to kill.

Not meaning to jump in the middle here, but I agree with you on that. I still used the original brick in my Ms Pac. Gives a steadier voltage than any SMPS I have!

It's a simple devise, not much can go wrong with it, which in theory should make it more steady and reliable. I would think that the only thing that might affect its voltage output would be power spikes and drops coming from your utility co.  I always use power strips in my cabs that provide a little bit of power conditioning... haven't seen any problems whatsoever.... knock on wood.

[Spyridon]

Okay, now that I've got my Centipede up and running, I can now focus back on Pac-man.  Going to try and find time this weekend to pull the monitor and see if I can get it up and running.

[THE POKER BRAT]

Okay, now that I've got my Centipede up and running, I can now focus back on Pac-man.  Going to try and find time this weekend to pull the monitor and see if I can get it up and running.

the monitor needs a width coil,...i have the same problem with a cab i have,..."Does anyone know a good place or site that shows a width coil installation?  (do it yourself )

[orion]

Okay, now that I've got my Centipede up and running, I can now focus back on Pac-man.  Going to try and find time this weekend to pull the monitor and see if I can get it up and running.

the monitor needs a width coil,...i have the same problem with a cab i have,..."Does anyone know a good place or site that shows a width coil installation?  (do it yourself )

Here you go... real easy fix, and I hear that Bob Roberts usually has them in stock

http://www.therealbobroberts.net/k4600width.html

[Spyridon]

the monitor needs a width coil,...i have the same problem with a cab i have,..."Does anyone know a good place or site that shows a width coil installation?  (do it yourself )

I'm not sure that the problem is the width coil.  Mine looks to be in good shape.  Could just be a cold solder joint that is causing it.

[Spyridon]

Got the monitor pulled out today.



In terms of burn in, how bad do you think this monitor is?  Do you think it will look okay under some tinted plexi with the game on?

[Mauzy]

Scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the worst burn in ever, I'd give it a 6.5. Tinted glass would really make it hard to see, but you still may be able to see it during play. Good candidate for a tube swap.

[orion]

That monitor looks pretty much like crap in my opinion. Personally I would opt for a new Vision Pro, as they are relatively cheap and seem pretty decent. (I like mine well enough) Its just a lot easier, safer and involves a lot less headaches to just put a new monitor in. Of course bear in mind that I did almost electrocute myself the last time I worked on a monitor. I didn't quite have the annode cap in properly. It popped out a little while I was trying to make adjustment to the monitor. It made a real pretty light show though... looked just like a plasma globe.

[Level42]

I agree, would be a shame to fully restore the machine and then use that CRT. I think the extra for a Vision Pro would be really worth it (oh, if only we could get brand new monitors that cheap !)

Looks very promising ! I'd try to go for the original PSU too. Mine is working fine in my Galaxian, which is basically the same as the Pac.

If you have no use for that extra Pac joystick, I'm interested !!! (For my Puckman )

Never understood why Midway switched from an energy friendly fluorescent tube set-up (like my eraly serial nr. Galaxian has) to the two incandescent bulbs....it looks terrible and wastes a LOT of energy, but probably they went for the 2 dollars they saved by using this set-up....
It's a good thing to have those lamps in there, probably will give a more even lighting too.

[Mauzy]

I didn't quite have the annode cap in properly. It popped out a little while I was trying to make adjustment to the monitor. It made a real pretty light show though... looked just like a plasma globe.

I once ran a monitor for about 30 seconds with the anode dangling in the air. Fired it got, got no picture and couldn't figure out what that weird hissing noise was...

Why spend $200 bucks when you could just replace the tube for nearly free? Maybe I've just had really good luck with my tube swaps, but I've turned a dumpster level G07 into something that looks brand new with a tube I found on the curb, and a K7201 into something functional with a $10 crt from a garage sale. I guess it could be hard to find a tube, but otherwise theres virtually no work involved. Unbolt the old, re-bolt the new.

[Spyridon]

I agree, would be a shame to fully restore the machine and then use that CRT. I think the extra for a Vision Pro would be really worth it (oh, if only we could get brand new monitors that cheap !) 

Yeah, you are probably right.  I'll try and get it working, just as a learning experience and see what it looks like.  I have a Vision Pro ready, so I can use that.  Maybe create a test bench with this monitor.

If you have no use for that extra Pac joystick, I'm interested !!! (For my Puckman )

It's yours!  No charge and I'll even cover shipping.  Just let me make sure I've got a working one before I send it out.

[orion]

I didn't quite have the annode cap in properly. It popped out a little while I was trying to make adjustment to the monitor. It made a real pretty light show though... looked just like a plasma globe.

I once ran a monitor for about 30 seconds with the anode dangling in the air. Fired it got, got no picture and couldn't figure out what that weird hissing noise was...

Seems to easy to get hurt working on them to me. Personaly I don't like the idea of getting fried for a hobby. 110 shocks are one thing but that high voltage stuff is scary. I would me more inclined to do it if I had the apporpriate training, but this isn't something I feel comfortable trying to teach myself how to do. Plus I feel like a new monitor should just last longer than a 30+ year old monitor anyway.

 

Yeah, you are probably right.  I'll try and get it working, just as a learning experience and see what it looks like.  I have a Vision Pro ready, so I can use that.  Maybe create a test bench with this monitor.

Well there ya go!

[SirPeale]

K4600s have awesome pictures and last forever.  Find a new(ish) tube and swap it out.

[TimothyC]

Definitely replace that tube as the current one would look like crap once you're done. Besides you do top notch work so why cut a corner on the one part of the machine that's stared at the most? 

[Level42]

I agree, would be a shame to fully restore the machine and then use that CRT. I think the extra for a Vision Pro would be really worth it (oh, if only we could get brand new monitors that cheap !) 

Yeah, you are probably right.  I'll try and get it working, just as a learning experience and see what it looks like.  I have a Vision Pro ready, so I can use that.  Maybe create a test bench with this monitor.

If you have no use for that extra Pac joystick, I'm interested !!! (For my Puckman )

It's yours!  No charge and I'll even cover shipping.  Just let me make sure I've got a working one before I send it out.

Wahoo ! Thanks but I have no problem at all to at least cover your costs of course !!!!!

So, if you guys replace just the CRT, how about convergence ? Do you replace the CRT plus yoke etc. ? In that case it needs to have the same impedance etc. right ?

This may be something to keep an eye on. Hope it will work out:
http://forums.webmagic.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=1037593&an=0&page=0&gonew=1#UNREAD

[Mauzy]

So, if you guys replace just the CRT, how about convergence ? Do you replace the CRT plus yoke etc. ? In that case it needs to have the same impedance etc. right ?

Yeah. The first one I did was a G07. I took the G07 yoke and put it on the TV tube, but I didn't attatch the G07 purity rings as the TV tube did not have any. If I can find the tutorial where I got it from I'll post a link. I don't have any convergence issues as far as I can see.

Heres the tutorial I used: http://www.arcadetreasure.com/monitorinfo/Monitortubeswap.htm

[Spyridon]

Wahoo ! Thanks but I have no problem at all to at least cover your costs of course !!!!!

You've given good comments and advice in every one of my restorations.  Consider it a small thank you for all the help you've given to everyone in this forum.

[Level42]

The force is strong with you !   

[channelmaniac]

Hey! That PC board looks familiar.

BE SURE you check for dull/dark looking pins on that Pac harness. If you see ANY dull or dark pins on the power pins - REPLACE THEM. If you don't you'll burn the edge connector on the board.

Better yet, replace the edge connector on the harness up front. That'll give you another 20+ years of good, trouble free operation.

Also, if you decide to rebuild the monitor, desolder the width coil and leave it on the chassis. Those things WILL crumble if you remove them from the holder.

[Spyridon]

Hey! That PC board looks familiar.

Yeah, it should.  Nice packaging by the way 

BE SURE you check for dull/dark looking pins on that Pac harness. If you see ANY dull or dark pins on the power pins - REPLACE THEM. If you don't you'll burn the edge connector on the board.

Good point.  I'll check that out before plugging anything in.

Also, if you decide to rebuild the monitor, desolder the width coil and leave it on the chassis. Those things WILL crumble if you remove them from the holder.

Yeah, I already did that.  I learned that lesson when I restored my Gorf. 

[Spyridon]

Did the cap kit but no change in the picture.  I'll have to dig deeper into it to get it working.  I'll do this as a learning experience as I will be going with a new monitor (which I have already) in this.

[SirPeale]

Did the cap kit but no change in the picture.  I'll have to dig deeper into it to get it working.  I'll do this as a learning experience as I will be going with a new monitor (which I have already) in this.

Still the same collapse?

[Spyridon]

Still the same collapse?

Yep.  There is a thread over at KLOV that walked someone through the same problem with this monitor.  I need to go back to it and see what they did.

[Spyridon]

ThisOldGame and Arcadeshop both sell smoked plexi for Pac-man.  Did this come standard in the game? 

[Level42]

Don't know about Pac, but it was on Galaxian, so it would be at least reasonable to believe it was.

I prefer the tinted only plexi (not brown colored). I don't like the brown color washing away the nice colors on the screen.

[Spyridon]

I ordered the Pac-man smoked plexi from ThisOldGame.

Pulled out the wireing harness this weekend to take a look at.  The wires are cut going up to the marquee and power switch.  I'll have to trace those wires back and see where each one goes.

[WunderCade]

I'd say the smoked plexi came factory. My Galaga, Ms. Pac-man, and Pac-man all had the same monitor shroud w/ recessed smoked plexi inserted on them. The plexi fits perfectly into the shroud recess with four retainer clips

[Spyridon]

I'd say the smoked plexi came factory. My Galaga, Ms. Pac-man, and Pac-man all had the same monitor shroud w/ recessed smoked plexi inserted on them. The plexi fits perfectly into the shroud recess with four retainer clips

Thanks for confirming that.  I'll have to check my Galaga and see if I have it in there. 

Here are the cut wires that I need to trace back and see where each one goes:


I believe they go to the interlock, power switch, and marquee.  Not sure where else or which wire goes where yet.

[WunderCade]

That's a Ms. Pac-man wiring harness, so you must have a Ms. Pac powersupply harness set-up.

I believe both PS's are interchangeable, but the regular Pac-man power supply has an extra diode array on it (I think for the coin door) but not sure.

I'll post pics.

This is a Pac-man PS block (note the array in the top right corner):


This is the Ms. Pac-man PS block (no array on it) Ms. Pac has Coin Door lights:


This is the Pac-man harness counterpart to what you have shown clipped:


Now this is the Ms. Pac-man harness that you have shown clipped:


Just in case you decide to use it anyway, here are some (hopefully helpful) pics of where the harness you are showing clipped goes on my Ms. Pac-man, it does indeed go to the marquee light, but it also contains the monitor power harness that branches off of it as well as the ground clip that clips to the monitor frame:



Here's pics of the part running up to the marquee (and also the ground loops to the speaker):







If you need more pics of anything let me know....I'm going to the shed to see if I have an extra Pac-man PS board....I'll let you know my friend. Keep up the good work, love watching the progress.
 

[Spyridon]

WunderCade, thanks for posting those pictues.

Here's a full shot of the power supply:


Looks like it matches with you pacman pic?  Also, if I remember correctly (I'm currently in NC), it had a Pac-man tag on it